Manual Glow Plug "timer" switch - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

strelnik · #16 09-09-2014, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

I use a manual setup. I got an 80amp continuous-duty relay from NAPA for about $30.

Got an Echlin or NAPA part number?

Brock_Samson · #17 09-09-2014, 03:34 PM

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050I94XG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

got mine here for, 4 post.

Diesel911 · #18 09-09-2014, 10:20 PM

All of the Ones I have seen that have 4 Terminasl and 2 small Terminals one small Terminal is labled S and the other small Terminal is labled I. I used the S Termial to connect one end of the Switch Wire to a + source to the Switch and from the Switch to the S Terminal and the Solenoid Frame/Bracket needs to be grounded to the Chassis.

The 2 big terminals have no specific side to start with. Pic one and connect a Cable from the Batter to it. If you want connect a Wire to the other Size with an 80 amp Fuse and from there the Wire go on to the Glow Plugs.

Brock_Samson · #19 09-10-2014, 01:26 AM

Ahhh thank you sir, i will cherish this forever... just waiting on my fuse to come from amazon and ill put this to action. thanks

dieselbenz1 · #20 09-10-2014, 10:22 AM

With this circuit the solenoid is unprotected and becomes a potential fire hazard in the event of a short in the wiring or solenoid. But if you go to these lengths why not fuse the glow plugs individually this would be useful in testing the glow plugs individually for shorts or ohms. Not only would it be a safer design but useful in diagnosing glow issues down the road.

Diesel911 · #21 09-10-2014, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

With this circuit the solenoid is unprotected and becomes a potential fire hazard in the event of a short in the wiring or solenoid. But if you go to these lengths why not fuse the glow plugs individually this would be useful in testing the glow plugs individually for shorts or ohms. Not only would it be a safer design but useful in diagnosing glow issues down the road.

I am not sure which part of the Solenoid you mean but a Person is free to add as many Fuses or Circuit Breakers as they feel the need for.

I have no Fuse on the Manual setup I have on My Volvo since about 1992 with zero issues.

On the Mercedes Glow Plug Relay you will see a Flat Copper Wire. That Wire has a direct Connection to the Batter and as far as I know there is no Fuse in that circuit.

Notice that you have no Fuse from the Battery Cable to the Starter Motor and none between the Alternator and the + Wires on the Starter.

A Friend of mine where I used to work dropped a big Screwdriver down to the Starter and Started the Starter Cranking but not engaged. The event did not stop till the Screwdriver melted and the Starter was toast.

vstech · #22 09-10-2014, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I am not sure which part of the Solenoid you mean but a Person is free to add as many Fuses or Circuit Breakers as they feel the need for.

I have no Fuse on the Manual setup I have on My Volvo since about 1992 with zero issues.

On the Mercedes Glow Plug Relay you will see a Flat Copper Wire. That Wire has a direct Connection to the Batter and as far as I know there is no Fuse in that circuit.

Notice that you have no Fuse from the Battery Cable to the Starter Motor and none between the Alternator and the + Wires on the Starter.

A Friend of mine where I used to work dropped a big Screwdriver down to the Starter and Started the Starter Cranking but not engaged. The event did not stop till the Screwdriver melted and the Starter was toast.

There is a fuse... in the relay. Nothing before it...

Phillytwotank · #23 09-10-2014, 12:04 PM

you need a fuse between the battery and the switch.

dieselbenz1 · #24 09-10-2014, 12:43 PM

My point exactly. As a requirement to meet electrical code all powered devices require fusing. The solenoid is not fused in the circuit diagram.

mach4 · #25 09-10-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

My point exactly. As a requirement to meet electrical code all powered devices require fusing. The solenoid is not fused in the circuit diagram.

Is the starter a "powered device"?

leathermang · #26 09-10-2014, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

My point exactly. As a requirement to meet electrical code all powered devices require fusing. The solenoid is not fused in the circuit diagram.

What size fuses would be appropriate on the various wires which should have them ?

Is there an advantage to using ' fusible links' for anything ?

Are fusible links a secondary safety fuse... given they are ' slower ' acting than most fuses ? Are they used any place except RIGHT at the Battery connection ?

funola · #27 09-10-2014, 02:00 PM

Here is my manual glow controller. It is a bad Mercedes unit that's been modified so the cluster glow light comes on whenever the glow plugs are on (i.e. when you push the manual button). There is just one wire that goes into the controller (the small white wire), no wires to the car's harness. Connect the wire to one side of a momentary switch, the other side of switch to switched +12V (need ign. key on to activate glow plugs), or to hot at all times +12 V (battery or headlight switch- no ign. key necessary to glow).

There's no modification to the stock wiring. If you decide you do not want a manual system anymore or when you want to sell the car for example, just buy a new glow controller and swap it out- plug and play.

Compared to the two manual systems below, which would you rather have?

Brock_Samson · #28 09-10-2014, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Here is my manual glow controller. It is a bad Mercedes unit that's been modified so the cluster glow light comes on whenever the glow plugs are on (i.e. when you push the manual button). There is just one wire that goes into the controller (the small white wire), no wires to the car's harness. Connect the wire to one side of a momentary switch, the other side of switch to switched +12V (need ign. key on to activate glow plugs), or to hot at all times +12 V (battery or headlight switch- no ign. key necessary to glow).

There's no modification to the stock wiring. If you decide you do not want a manual system anymore or when you want to sell the car for example, just buy a new glow controller and swap it out- plug and play.

A little confused on what you did, but doesnt sound bad. I dont need to worry about selling or going back though. thanks for all the help gents.

Ill be putting a v8 in later

dieselbenz1 · #29 09-10-2014, 05:01 PM

Good point yes a starter is a powered device but due to the large current draws either a fusible link is used or the wire is sized to fail should the design current be exceeded. In either scenarios one would assume the starter is not protected.

Diesel911 · #30 09-10-2014, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

Good point yes a starter is a powered device but due to the large current draws either a fusible link is used or the wire is sized to fail should the design current be exceeded. In either scenarios one would assume the starter is not protected.

I don't know about that as Battery Cables are usually listed as a minimum gauge that you can use for a specific application; I have never read you were restricted to only one gauged for any short circuit protection.

With other Wires coming off of the Bettery of the Battery Terminal Clamp or the large + Cable at the Starter they frequently have Fusable Links that require a specific size of Wire.