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  #16  
Old 04-23-2007, 11:27 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
I am going with the Nissen, and upper/lower hoses, and a new thermostat.
How's the condition of the hose between the lower radiator and the tank?

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  #17  
Old 04-23-2007, 11:32 PM
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Mine is not broken yet but it has a very slight leak at the threads where the brass fitting goes into the plastic. I cleaned it off real well then apllied lots of Goop to seal it and to add support in the space underneath so that it may take a little more leverage before breaking. I am not going to test it though.

BTW the Goop stopped the leak.
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Last edited by funola; 04-23-2007 at 11:52 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-24-2007, 12:36 AM
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I have NOT been happy with nissen radiators. I have installed a few of them on Mercedes and Volvos. The Volvo radiator is only 2.5yrs old and it is seeping where the core meets the tank. They also,on the Volvo radiator, used a very crappy rubber compound grommet for where a temp sensor fit into the upper tank. The rubber so decomposed that the radiator spit out the sensor and the guy overheated his engine. This happened at the 2 year old mark. They also use the plastic surge tank nipple so no difference to the Behr.

I will NOT buy another of their radiators.... I can't take a chance to save a few bucks to buy a guy an engine. Make mine a BEHR.
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2007, 09:09 AM
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not sure what you mean, what hose

Not sure what you mean....




Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
How's the condition of the hose between the lower radiator and the tank?
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2007, 09:13 AM
Craig
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Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
Not sure what you mean....
I assume you car has a coolant tank, there is a hose (about 1-inch) from the bottom of the radiator (right next to the lower hose) to the tank on the fender well. This hose is also part of the pressure boundary of the system.
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  #21  
Old 04-26-2007, 01:40 PM
CB
 
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Drill out plug, tap, use brass threaded nipple, seal with JB Weld, refill system. 85 300D, 1100 miles a week, no problems with this repair
CB
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  #22  
Old 04-26-2007, 02:33 PM
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I did exactly what Chuck just posted. Same results. No leaks and it's been about 4 months since I did it.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2007, 10:37 AM
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broke it

I did this attemp this repair, and the wall was was so thin and brittle it crumpled....That tells me this radiator was at least 10 years old or so, and time to replace. Hell, it might be 22 years old!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck4780 View Post
Drill out plug, tap, use brass threaded nipple, seal with JB Weld, refill system. 85 300D, 1100 miles a week, no problems with this repair
CB
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2007, 02:44 PM
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I have fixed mine by enlarging the hole and jb weld it in several weeks ago and it is still hanging in there.
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  #25  
Old 04-27-2007, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck4780 View Post
Drill out plug, tap, use brass threaded nipple, seal with JB Weld, refill system. 85 300D, 1100 miles a week, no problems with this repair
CB
Did this on mine almost two years ago. Still holding fine.
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  #26  
Old 04-27-2007, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
I think my nipple broke on the radiator where the hose attaches from the coolant resevoir.

Is there a bandaid fix....to get me home.....

It looks like there is a plastic nipple attached to the radiator the skinny hose from the overflow coolant resevoir and the plastic niple broke off in the hose....

Help....

Do I need a new radiator.
I too have had the same problem. The way to repair this is:

Go to your favorite small home improvement store where they sell small diameter tubing. I was lucky to know where to go looking. Most Hobby shops e.g. train building model airplane type of shops have this stuff.

Take your broken nipple in with you and try out the tubing until you find something that fits inside the nipple. Buy some two part slow hardening epoxy.

Clean the surface. Force your new brass tubing into the nipple as far as it goes. Cut off the remainder so that 1/2" is left sticking out. Force the nipple with brass tubing into the radiator until 1/4" of space between radiator and nipple.

Mixup some epoxy and fill that gap with epoxy. Press the nipple flush to the radiator. This makes the epoxy squirt all over the radiator and coats both mating faces thoroughly. Wait for things to dry and enjoy.

I did this one myself and it cost me ~$6.00

Been Driving on it for at least a week and no spirting hose. Checked I get pressure at the overfill reservoir and it takes fluid when I put it in.
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2007, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Leave the cap off the expansion tank.

Drive the vehicle........easy........don't push it and heat it up or you'll blow out coolant and possibly overheat it.

Don't exceed 60 mph........and don't accelerate quickly...........easy does it and you'll get home.
May I add, blast the heat as well, take heat off the cooling system.

If the radiator is old and you plan on keeping the car for awhile just replace it. Next the upper hose will snap off. Radiators for W123's are pretty cheap.

Now is also a good time to replace your transmission cooler lines, since they are probably original and shot. They are super cheap and you have to undo them to remove the radiator anyway.
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  #28  
Old 04-28-2007, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I tend to think that he's right about the Nissens. The Behr is running on it's reputation as OE and I'm certainly not a fan of that plastic crap.

The best radiator is a custom made aluminum unit from Wizard cooling.......about $400.........but, way better than any Behr or Nissens. I'm sorely tempted........

No big deal to replace the radiator. Be careful of the transmisson hoses and unbolt the oil cooler from the main radiator right in the vehicle. Don't disturb the oil cooler lines.
Info please, where does one go to obtain such a radiator
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  #29  
Old 04-28-2007, 09:06 AM
Craig
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Originally Posted by Chris Bell View Post
Info please, where does one go to obtain such a radiator
http://www.wizardcooling.com/

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