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#1
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Parking brake
My parking brake pedal doesn't keep the car in it's place at all and comes back up pretty slowly. Its as if the pedal doesn't work at all. What could be the problem?
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#2
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probably the brake pad is worn down, plus the line could be sticking and i believe there are springs involved in the whole mechanism at the back wheel that can lock up or break over time. Dealer could fix it i'm sure but -- trust me -- just get a chiltons book or something basic like that and do a little research. ur save a small fortune.
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1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD ~285,000 Miles |
#3
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You can adjust the brakes too. There is a star wheel inside the rear hub about 45 degrees foward of the top. You get to it by taking the wheel off and using a flathead screw driver to spin the star wheel through one of the lug holes
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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#4
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The above poster is correct. Inside each rear brake rotor is a small set of drum brake shoes. Remove rear wheels, rotate rotor till you see the small star wheel adjuster thru one of the lug stud holes. Rotate adjuster with screw driver till shoes drag on drum then back off a couple of clicks, NEVER adjust the park brake cables.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#5
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If it was just the adjustment, shouldn't it still apply some braking, even the slightest? It doesn't at all.
Also, is the parking brake pedal supposed to come up fast or slow? |
#6
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That's why i said it was probably the mechanism that applies pressure to the rotor becuase you mentioned that the pedal came up slow. The pedal should release quick and easy when you pull the handle.
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1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD ~285,000 Miles |
#7
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Yes
To answer your question, the ebrake pedal should positively disengage with an immediate "thlump" as it springs back into position.
For good cheap info Grab an armload of the Haynes Manual...they disassembled the year model car and then wrote the book. Also, the graphics from the Performanceparts catalog are accurate and cost nada. http://discountautorepairmanuals.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=darm&Product_Code=A63012-85&Category_Code=M3 Oh yeah, I forgot to mention you can contact Roy at the Buy Parts link at the top of the forum page for great advice and good deals on parts for these models... "They're only the best cars ever made if you don't pork em up with French fried pertaterfat" - Slingblade
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Bama1 2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane" 2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy" 1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude" 1954 model original owner - ~2.5M Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis Last edited by Bama1; 05-07-2007 at 11:36 PM. |
#8
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Oh btw, in case anyone is confused, the rears are discs, not drums.
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#9
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Mike, The parking brake is indeed a separate drum type on the 87 300D and it is integrated in the rear rotors. Man, those German engineers are nothing if not efficient.
...I have'nt found a good diagram of the ebrake control cable or pedal release assembly but I'll shout out when I find one! In the meantime, check out the link below for the way your ebrake assembly is actually configured http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/Drawings.aspx?bmid=83 The problem is probably an issue with broken internal springs in the e-brake assembly at the inside of the rear wheel rotors since you have no braking performance whatsoever. Parts are less than 50 bucks and a set of brake pliers from Sears...I've no experience with the cables but they're cheap parts at $30. Although they may be complicated to replace and adjust properly...again refer to the Haynes manual or search the forum for previous discussions. There is a lot of good stuff posted in past threads if you take some time to search for it. Someone warned earlier to not mess with the cables but did'nt give any rationale. Maybe they will elaborate so you can figure out the best route to take to get these repaired. Good luck and motor on
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Bama1 2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane" 2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy" 1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude" 1954 model original owner - ~2.5M Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis Last edited by Bama1; 05-08-2007 at 12:35 AM. |
#10
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Actually, I have no idea. I just wanted to make sure it was understood I had discs and not drums to avoid any confusing info.
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#11
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The parking brake is inside the rotor. It is just like a set of drum brakes. It has a cam to spread the pads against the inside of the rotor. There are several springs that hold the pads in place. I'd bet those are your problem. It's pretty easy to check, pull the wheels off and remove the rear caliper, the rotor will slide off. Make sure you have the parking brake disengaged. Good luck.
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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif |
#12
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Why never adjust the cables?? This is something I'm wantin to do with my '79 240D 190k miles - reconnoitring PB cable's stretched same as hood release that I've recently adjusted to compensate nearly 1" of stretch.
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#13
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This "never adjust cables" is a direct quote from my 81 Mercedes service manual. No rational given. My presumption is they want you to first verify parking brake shoes are good and all return springs and adjusters are intact. Assuming thats all ok, then adjusting the shoes should provide a parking brake.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#14
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Quote:
My W123 service manual contains no prohibition on cable adjustment, although it does indicate that the shoes should be the primary means of parking brake adjustment. Cable adjustment is indicated when the cable or axle has been replaced. Obviously, the cable needs to be adjusted if it has been removed in conjunction with some other job, like removing the driveshaft. Last edited by tangofox007; 05-07-2008 at 10:50 PM. |
#15
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Thanks, am thinkin tighten up the cable a little before workin the shoes. Just wanted to know if messing with cable adjust might somehow cause problems. Myself pays little attention to MB factory shop manual "prohibitions" since they strictly prohibit easy to do stuff like steering box adjust too. Actually have found numerous examples of bad info coming from the official MB manual over the years.
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