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  #1  
Old 05-26-2007, 03:33 PM
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Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)

Here's some pics of fuel sender that I cleaned today. Its the unit in the fuel tank accessed by removing the First Aid Kit compartment right behind the rear backseat. My reserved fuel light has been going on/off.

Dirty unit. Look at the really black lower part.


Another view.


Wiped it with paper towel and later sprayed it with brake cleaner to remove more gunk.


Generously sprayed inside with brake clean and carefully shook unit. Drained it out thru weep hole and lots of blackish solids came out. Did this 3X until solvent was clear. Then blew it with compressed air thru weep hole to dry it out and reinstalled.
Attached Thumbnails
Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-p1010214sender-1.jpg   Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-p1010214sender-2.jpg   Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-p1010217sender-4.jpg   Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-p1010219.jpg  
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Last edited by whunter; 07-28-2008 at 01:55 AM. Reason: attached picture for future members
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2007, 03:41 PM
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you should have removed the little nut on the bottom using a small pair of pliers and dissasembled the unit and clean it thouroughly, inside is probably a lot more sludge, it collects at the bottom, it isn't too complicated, just be sure to be gentle with the wires inside.
Attached Thumbnails
Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-p1010214-small-.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2007, 05:55 PM
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yes, the small nut on the bottom is a pain to remove without plier.. Do like carson said. I did mine and my guage read alot more accurate than before. Their was alot of crud in there. Be careful with the guide wires
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2007, 11:37 PM
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I did the one in my 79 last week. It was working but seemed to be "hanging up" a little when the tank got low. When I opened it the lower end was really caked with black goo. I did another one that was not working at all. The thin wire was broken at the lower end. A friend held it and I re soldered it, its still working
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2007, 11:50 PM
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Ok, I'll take it out again tomorrow since its fairly simple to do. I wondered about the "thing" at the bottom. Didn't look like a nut so I didn't attempt to mess with it. The reserve light still comes one so it looks like I didn't clean it well enough.

One thing I learned was when lifting the unit out of the tank, you gotta do it very slowly so all fuel in the unit drains out first back in to the tank. Otherwise, its squirting everywhere.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
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97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
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  #6  
Old 05-27-2007, 12:00 AM
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Here is the fun part you missed.....





If the light comes on a lot, I suspect it is either stuck down at the bottom, or a wire may have broke/come loose. Careful, they are thin.....
Attached Thumbnails
Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-mb240d1980100.jpg   Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)-mb240d1980101.jpg  
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Last edited by whunter; 07-28-2008 at 01:58 AM. Reason: attached pictures for future members
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2007, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
Ok, I wondered about the "thing" at the bottom. Didn't look like a nut so I didn't attempt to mess with it.
That little nut is "captured" by, what looks like, a little piece if plastic hose which I pulled away with plyres. I put the nut back with blue thread lock, dont know if thats the correct procedure but thats what I did.
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1985 Euro 300TD 5 spd 220K
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 130K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

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  #8  
Old 05-27-2007, 04:30 PM
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Stainer

Now am wondering if this unit is this bad, the strainer at the bottom of the tank probably looks the same or worse.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:48 PM
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Old Thread Revisted

My '84 had the empty to 1/4 full fuel gauge syndrome so I searched, followed what others have done and found the float shaft had rust. Of course the rust would not allow the float to rise beyond the point corresponding with the 1/4 mark. Gentle work with emery cloth, some PB Blaster, thorough rinsing, reassembly and works great. This vehicle had not moved for ??? so it certainly made sense.
Steve
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  #10  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:36 PM
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Fuel Level Sender

A Harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner with a little Simple Green works wonders on these after getting them apart...just be real easy with the fine wires.....check for corrosion around the bottom contacts & wire attachment solder points...mine had high resistance rust that was throwing the whole unit off....had to re-solder..all ok for now....

If you are real careful you can gently bend the tiny contact leaves on the float to get a better grip on the wire....two on each side....delicate touch needed there...
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  #11  
Old 07-28-2008, 01:11 AM
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The next time I really run down my fuel tank I am going to have to remember to do this.....my reserve light doesn't work and the gauge never reads accurately....just from Full to half....then it will fall abruptly to 1/4 from 1/2 after another 100 miles.....then go a little further and it lays at R....but no reserve light....mines probably full of sludge.....
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2008, 01:37 AM
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Sending unit

Another good test is to attach the female connector to the unit while it is out of the aluminum tube ( being careful of the thin wires) and slide the float up and down by hand (out of the tank of course) while watching the fuel gauge for smooth tracking and reserve light function at bottom of float travel....Ign. key in ACC position or with the engine running
You must kneel in the seat facing backwards to manipulate the float while holding it in the rear shelf area unless you want to use jumper clips for a little more slack....

Found a couple of dead spots along the float wire path but cleaned them up with fine emery paper.....
Nice way to test unit without the mess after repairs......
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:33 AM
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I noticed in the pic that you're using NAPA brake cleaner.....the AutoZone stuff is WAY more powerful....and has a more controllable spray tip. (So you don't empty the whole can in 5 seconds) Not to mention you get 14oz instead of 12...for less $$
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 76k - mine - (OC-80,500)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 7k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 159k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 168k - dad's (OC-171,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 131k - dad's (OC-132,500)
'01 SL500 - 49k - dad's (OC-52,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 128k - Brothers (OC-128,000)
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2010, 03:09 PM
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Exclamation Special note

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Here is the fun part you missed.....



If the light comes on a lot, I suspect it is either stuck down at the bottom, or a wire may have broke/come loose. Careful, they are thin.....
The drain hole is in the black plastic end cap !!!

* When this hole is totally plugged, the sender will read FULL when the fuel tank is EMPTY..

** When the drain hole is partially plugged, the sender is extremely slow to change/react, most notable (key on) during fueling from EMPTY to FULL.
I have seen examples of this reaction issue, from three minutes to one day to reach the correct reading...
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  #15  
Old 03-07-2010, 04:05 PM
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This is a great post. These sending units are around $200 so knowing how to take one apart and fix it yourself is a huge help. Mine just stopped working (indicating full all the time) so I will certainly disassemble mine now.

Scott
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