Anyone have a photo or drawing of a sleeve removal tool for a 617?
thank you
Omar

anyone?

The sleeves are usually pressed in by a machine shop.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

in the factory manual there is a tool you can make to remove the sleeve ... anyone done it that way or have a photo of the tool?

I was just going to send you that manual section, do you have a copy?

Omar, have you used the search function in the dark blue line above. I am not sure that I saw a picture, but I think there are a couple of descriptions of how a DIY can do it. Just type in "remove cylinder liner"

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I have searched untill I am blue there was an old tread that had photo's however the photo's are not there anymore so yes if anyone has a copy of they can send me please thank you Omar

So much for my idea to try to salvage one from a bad block and transplant it to a good block that just has one bad sleeve.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Why not have your machine shop remove it? The sleeve can be bored until it's quite thin then slit with a cape chisel

That's just how one machine shop said they will do it. I wanted to resleeve one of my 617 blocks and they quoted me between $350 and $400 to do it. I also have to supply them the sleeves.
After it's resleeved I'm sure they still have to rebore them to have the pistons fit as the pistons will probably not fit right with the sleeves installed as they are. So I could imagine there's an extra charge for the extra boring to fit the pistons.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Pressed in dry sleeves, in my experience, always need to be bored and honed to size.
This is where the diesels' economy of operation sorta turns around and bites.

I removed all five sleeves. I used my wire feed welder. Turn it down to low then run about 6 beads the lenth of the cylinde sleeve. Then I built a bead about 1/4 inch for about 1 1/2 inches on the bottom of the sleeve about 1 inch up. I used a pipe and hammer to hit the welds at the bottom. Once they start to move they come out farely simple. It took me about 30 minutes a sleeve from start to finish. Remember let it cool a little when doing the 1/4 inch beads. Do not penatrate the sleeve and hit the block!!!

Ed

Conventional approach used on large diesels by many mechanics and shops. Shrinks the liner enough to remove much easier.Actually removes the tension as the liner contracts a little from the upset of it's integrity by the weld.

As mentioned the liner thickness cannot be breached with weld.. The new liners will still have to be pressed in. For best effect a light weld from top to bottom will remove most liner pressure. A quick vertical down weld with a stick welder is the best bet. The amperage has to be kept down. You are just trying to upset the liner metal basically.

Using a used liner in another block of this type is questionable. One reason the allowance is made for machining with a new one is to deal with concetric problems in the cast iron block. That is why a new set of liners in an old block can result in a superior bore. The cast iron is not green any more but well aged and stable.Unless really aged after casting and before machining for the liner at the factory it is not all that stable.

The used liner should be measured carefully before and after transfer to the other block to find out if the move worked. distortions introduced by the cast iron bore might upset things.

Then there may be a pesky issue with the deck clearance once the used liner is installed. It was already shaved to match the block it came from. So a critical length measurement should be made between the donar and reciepient cylinders liners before starting. I am not saying it cannot work to transfer a used liner on a 616 617 or 603 but it is a challenge.

You could ask them about the charge to just do one liner. This is not unknown.

we have a large mill in our shop so I suppose I could set up a boring bar and thin the thing out a bit might give that a shot, as for the machine shop the only decent one around is an hour away and its cheaper this way were set up to do cylinder heads in shop and deck blocks I suppose (havent done one yet but its about the same as a head just taller) Ill let you know how it goes on the rest of them I figure I can remove, replace and deck the block on my own, just have to send it off to be bored to size

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82 240D (82 300D drive train)