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  #1  
Old 07-28-2007, 03:22 PM
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Re-seal windshield; a 'do it yourself'...?

Hello all,
I found the culprit to my wet floors had been a leaking windshield. I thought I would support a local glass repair shop instead of a bigger chain. Well, I got screwed because the workmanship is terrible. They charged me $75 for resealing the windshield and back window and left goops of rubber still lying on the seals, terrible. I can't trim the rubber without the risk of breaking the new seal, great. In the corners, where it counted the most, the sealant is 'choppy' apparently where the technician seemed to have trouble with a smooth sealing so instead of stopping and pulling the strip to do it right, they kept going, ugh... There was a light 'fog' on my windshield before the 'repair'. It's still there, so I don't know if it's trapped water-vapor from before or if my windshield is leaking again.
I think I may pay someone else $65 an hour to do it right but I know there's black waterproofing sealant for sale (Home Depot/Lowe's) that would be sufficient. All I need is a proper 'gun' so I'm submitting this post because I'm looking for opinions/suggestions for either paying $65 and having it done right or how to do it myself.
Thanks...
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  #2  
Old 07-28-2007, 04:42 PM
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I just had my rear window resealed. I called up the local dealership to see what they would charge. They don't do it in-house and gave me the number of the company they used. I figured they must be decent if the dealer uses them. They came to my work and did it on-site for $30. Fixed the leak in my trunk. Calling your local dealer for a referral might work for you.
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2007, 04:48 PM
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I spent $120 to get my rear window seal installed, and I provided the seal! Now the front seal in the other car needs it too. I just may have to try calling the dealer.
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2007, 05:55 PM
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I just got my windsheild replaced. I had glass coverage, so no out of pocket. but the workmanship wasn't up to my standards. so I called the company,(small local) and they sent the tech back out to make it right.

when he got there I explained that this was not a toyota or honda, and that i have every intention of putting another 250k on it. so I wanted the windsheild to look good.
he removed the alum locking trim, and I took it into the garage to straighten out, while he did some touch up and trimming of rubber gobs.
he was gone in 15 minutes, and left a happy customer behind.

the thing I am getting at is call the place up, and explain your issues. they won't be in business long if they dont care for their customers. that is one reason I always try to keep it local, they know the customer is their lifeblood.

( been to Homedepot lately? they dont even care about customers- they cant even pay real peeps to run the friggin checkout lanes!! last time I wanted someone to get a bunk of lumber down, there were 3 guys standing around w/ their hands in their pockets asked for help- they all disappeared. gone. after 10 minutes,I finally left, and went elsewhere. almost as bad as WAlmart)
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2007, 10:25 PM
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It's not a DIY at all - get it done professionally.
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2007, 10:43 PM
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Front windshield...... NO

Rear....... Done it........Myself.......
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Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

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1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

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  #7  
Old 07-30-2007, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POS View Post
It's not a DIY at all - get it done professionally.
Not easy enough to do it by yourself but it is possible with an assistant.
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84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2007, 12:47 AM
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i thought these seals went in without any sort of 'sealant' just the rubber...

http://dieselgiant.com/bodyandelectrical.htm#Front%20Windshield%20Seal%A0


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  #9  
Old 07-30-2007, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Russell's Review of the Front Windshield Seal Kit:

What can I say if the seal leaks its gotta be replaced. The 123 series used a hand fitted seal on the front and rear window glass, no glue or silicone necessary. Just remove the seal by cutting it and tearing it our and the window will just pop out.
I guess no glue needed.
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  #10  
Old 07-30-2007, 02:59 AM
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well in the FSM Volume 2 under windows sec 67 it details how to properly
install front and rear windows. for the front window, it is installed dry, and then under#19 "Between glass and sealing frame, and between body and
sealing frame, seal with MB window sealing compound".
for the rear window as per #16 "Make seal between glass and rubber frame as well as body and rubber frame with MB window sealing compound
part# 001 989 31 20".

I took out my rear window last summer because of a leak in the trunk. the
gasket had been in their 9 yrs, time to replace not going to mess with it.
bought a new gasket, had window cleaned ready to install. called a mobile guy to install. charged $150.00, put it in dry. said MB doesn`t use sealant
so when the winter rains arrived I needed a bilge pump in the trunk.
I bought some 3M window black urithane sealant. fits in a cailking gun, ran
a bead under the rubber from the center of the roof down to where the corner of the trunk meet. then between the glass and rubber. dry the
rest of winter. I think the tube was $14.00.
charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/automatic transmissions)




Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

84 300SD 270K
85 300D 360K
82 Datsun Kingcab Diesel 483k
83 Nissan long bed Diesel 134K
80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 372k
78 240D $300
86 Ford 6.9 199K
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2007, 08:15 AM
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I used that same 3M urethane when I put my seal in my 82. Never leaked after that.
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EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
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Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

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  #12  
Old 07-30-2007, 01:42 PM
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Well, it ain't brain surgery, it's just caulking. I used masking tape on the glass right up next to the gasket. Then using a couple of plastic picnic knives, one to "open the gasket" and one to scrape out the dirt and crap, worked my way around the whole gasket. Then came back and using a small squeeze tube of black silicone and the plastic knives to hold the gasket open a bit squeezed in a small bead between the glass and the gasket. "Tool" the excess silicone with a finger dipped in water, just wipe off the excess and get it smooth. Peel off the masking tape. It took maybe 30 minutes, cost about 4 bucks, and it don't leak no more.

If you're replacing the glass, yeah, get a new gasket. If it's just a leak, this will fix it.
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2007, 02:45 PM
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Call them up and ask to speak to the manager. Explain politely, without raising your voice, that you were under the impression that the $75 charge was for the window to be installed PROPERLY, and that you don't believe the work has been done correctly. Ask for a time when you could bring the car down to him for him to look at the job that was done.

You could tell him that all your asking is for him to look at the window and tell you if he thinks it was a quality job or not.
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2007, 05:55 PM
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Thanks for the help...

Thanks for the advice guys. I perhaps was too harsh on the total job results. The rear window is well done which I unfairly didn't mention because I was miffed. I called and asked to speak with the technician about showing up so I might visually refer to what I wa speaking about instead of telling him "...and after I paid 'x' dollars you did this?!?" He was in fact friendly after I complimented the rear window work. He said 'no problem' just drop it off and he would fix the windshield low corners!
Yes, small shops DO deserve business for caring about their work Take THAT you chain store conglomo's...
Thanks again guys for the advice
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:55 PM
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