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  #16  
Old 09-02-2007, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT John View Post

I need some advice on whether this is a safe job to try to do so far from home.
No, it's not worth the risk. It's too easy to tear a gasket, break a stud or cross-thread an injector line. Not to mention that what you are trying to fix isn't broke!!!

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  #17  
Old 09-02-2007, 12:20 PM
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Doin't know what's wrong with the Easley method (apart from a vague recollection of people checking it against other methods here and not finding it reliable) but I wouldn't do it in your circumstances. I'd check the odometer with a GPS if anything.
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  #18  
Old 09-02-2007, 12:32 PM
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I already know my timing is 2 degrees retarded, as per the shop doing the timing check the appropriate way.

I want my timing to be 26* because I have heard a lot of people have better results with Diesel and WVO that way.

If I rotate the injection pump, is that where the biggest risk is? I don't even intend to pop an injector line, because I already know I am retarded 2*.. I should be able to turn the injection pump 4 degrees and get either 2 or 4 degrees adjustment to my timing. (can't remember which).


As far as checking my MPG, I was using a VERY inaccurate method, and I am sure it's better than I thought. Since my WVO tank is heated, I can't exactly back up to a diesel pump and pump it full of diesel to see how much fuel I used.
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Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.
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  #19  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:12 PM
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After reading the title of this thread and the first part of the first sentence I thought there might be more risks than I knew about!
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  #20  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SGT John View Post

Brian Carlton, you saw it, but you say 90 dollars is unreasonable to check the timing? I will try to find the receipt and figure out exactly what I got charged for.
If he has the RIV lights, it takes 15 minutes to check the timing. But, he's certainly not going to charge you $22.50.........he's going to hit you for one hour.

To adjust the timing requires loosening three screws on the IP mounting flange (a total of 10 minutes with the proper tools) and one screw at the bottom of the IP (another 15 minutes with the proper tool). Rotate the pump slightly until the both lights are on.........tighten the four screws.........and you're done.

So, $260. is ridiculous. $90. is probably typical for the "check".........one hour labor.
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  #21  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
After reading the title of this thread and the first part of the first sentence I thought there might be more risks than I knew about!

HAHA, the surgery was to remove a tumor from my left ring finger (no, the tumor wasn't my wedding band... I lost that months ago)

Maybe the tumor was a result of handling some fuel or motor oil or something.... but I had it longer than I had the Mercedes.. so couldn't have been the injection pump timing
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Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.
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  #22  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:22 PM
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It does seem rather silly that the adjustment would be that much more if he did it that way. He explained to me that when he did the injection timing he would have to totally remove the injection pump, so maybe he isn't as savvy on MB diesels as I thought he was. It's strange because he works on enough of them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
If he has the RIV lights, it takes 15 minutes to check the timing. But, he's certainly not going to charge you $22.50.........he's going to hit you for one hour.

To adjust the timing requires loosening three screws on the IP mounting flange (a total of 10 minutes with the proper tools) and one screw at the bottom of the IP (another 15 minutes with the proper tool). Rotate the pump slightly until the both lights are on.........tighten the four screws.........and you're done.

So, $260. is ridiculous. $90. is probably typical for the "check".........one hour labor.
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Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.
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  #23  
Old 09-02-2007, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT John View Post
He explained to me that when he did the injection timing he would have to totally remove the injection pump..........
Well, there is a remote possibility that he must remove the pump. This occurs if there is insufficient travel in the rotation of the IP to allow the specification to be met. In such a case, he's got to remove the pump and advance the spline by one tooth and reinstall the pump.

Unfortunately, to properly R & R the IP, you've got to pull the oil filter housing to access the lower mounting bolt.

Now the charge of $260. is perfectly reasonable.

He might simply assume that he must remove the IP on every adjustment. If not.........it's a home run.
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  #24  
Old 09-02-2007, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If that was true, the average 300D would be getting five miles to the gallon!!!
How so, the factory manual to my memory calls for 26 degrees...
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  #25  
Old 09-02-2007, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
How so, the factory manual to my memory calls for 26 degrees...
The FSM calls for 24 degrees, however, most diesels are running late.......some by 12 degrees. These diesels are not all that sensitive to late timing. The fuel economy will be slightly affected, but, it's nowhere near a 5 mpg reduction.
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  #26  
Old 09-02-2007, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT John View Post
because I already know I am retarded 2*.. I should be able to turn the injection pump 4 degrees and get either 2 or 4 degrees adjustment to my timing. (can't remember which).
Four degrees at the pump equals eight degrees at the crankshaft. To advance the injection timing two degrees, the IP needs to move only one degree. Be sure to use a magnifying glass when your read your protractor!!!
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  #27  
Old 09-02-2007, 07:18 PM
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I guess I really am retarded... heh, mathematically anyway.

I must have figured it out backwards .... anyway, I am going all the way to 26, (If I even ever do it) so it's 2* for me... I was under the hood looking for those 13mm bolts today, I can't even find the one in the rear that's attached to a bracket... unless of course the bracket is not present... I see a 13mm with a much larger bolt under it....

all of the bolts look like they are going to be heck to get to as well.... looks like a pretty daunting job... oh yeah, and I adjusted my IP linkage and tinkered with the alda today, and I am down to a reasonable 19 second 0-60... I was down to a 17 but I tried for more and somehow I lost it... it was too hot to try to find it again, so 19 seconds is better than it's ever been... I may leave it at that.

One question... (I am assuming WOT is wide open throttle) I turn the alda screw as far as it will go ccw and I still don't get black smoke... is that a problem?
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Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

Last edited by SGT John; 09-02-2007 at 07:24 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-02-2007, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT John View Post
I guess I really am retarded... heh, mathematically anyway.

I must have figured it out backwards .... anyway, I am going all the way to 26, (If I even ever do it) so it's 2* for me... I was under the hood looking for those 13mm bolts today, I can't even find the one in the rear that's attached to a bracket... unless of course the bracket is not present... I see a 13mm with a much larger bolt under it....

all of the bolts look like they are going to be heck to get to as well.... looks like a pretty daunting job... oh yeah, and I adjusted my IP linkage and tinkered with the alda today, and I am down to a reasonable 19 second 0-60... I was down to a 17 but I tried for more and somehow I lost it... it was too hot to try to find it again, so 19 seconds is better than it's ever been... I may leave it at that.

One question... (I am assuming WOT is wide open throttle) I turn the alda screw as far as it will go ccw and I still don't get black smoke... is that a problem?
it should be down to about 15 seconds or so.. something is amiss in your forced induction system.
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As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2007, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT John View Post
I can't even find the one in the rear that's attached to a bracket... unless of course the bracket is not present... I see a 13mm with a much larger bolt under it....


One question... (I am assuming WOT is wide open throttle) I turn the alda screw as far as it will go ccw and I still don't get black smoke... is that a problem?

The rear mounting bolt must be accessed from the top. You'll need to remove the rack damper screw unless you bend up a custom wrench. Get on top of the engine and peer down between the oil filter housing and the IP.......about 10" down will be the top of a screw that you can barely see..........your mission John, should you decide to accept it.........is to snag that screw with a box wrench and turn it three flats clockwise (looking aft from your vantage point). Should you be caught or killed, John, the moderator will disavow any knowledge of your actions.

WOT is "wide open throttle". With your miserable 0-60 second times, I'd be inclined to pull the ALDA and drive it as a test. If the times improve markedly and you get some smoke..........you'll be running around happy as a pig in $hit.
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2007, 10:32 PM
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Use this guide to help you out:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

Scott

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