rear raising mechanism - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Biodiesel300TD · #31 01-03-2008, 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n0rt75o

is my sls valve that is crumbling,,,,,any idea how much a new one is?

I have a used one, make me an offer if you're interested.

mobetta · #32 01-03-2008, 09:17 AM

as already suggested-
you should get under there and look it over- they are not steel, but aluminum , so it is not rusted out. the arm and other bits can rust out. but not the actual valve.

JimmyL · #33 01-03-2008, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

I have a used one, make me an offer if you're interested.

This is a good example of why SLS systems don't have to be real expensive to repair. Folks who pull parts to have extras then offer them up for a fair price. {I'm assuming a fair price

}

vstech · #34 01-03-2008, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

as already suggested-
you should get under there and look it over- they are not steel, but aluminum , so it is not rusted out. the arm and other bits can rust out. but not the actual valve.

I beg to differ, aluminum can "rust" out. it takes a flow of water, or a lot of salt, and time, but it can crumble to dust...

mobetta · #35 01-03-2008, 11:16 AM

well, I have seen corroded aluminum before, but never rust. I do agree that corrosion can happen, but unless someone left their car parked on the tidal flats for a few months, I doubt the SLS valve is crumbling. I would like to see pics of the issue, whatever it may be.

I have jumped to conclusions once or twice, thinking the sky was falling myself

. I really doubt that the valve will be beyond repair.most likely the arm/ bracket is rusted out, making it look worse than it is. Maybe Andrew would take the old one in trade, and re- seal it?? hate to see a salvagable part go to waste....

heres a pic of my spare, FWIW....

Chad300tdt · #36 01-03-2008, 11:27 AM

I believe the aluminum valve body touching the steel bracket causes a reaction and they both oxidize. The steel rusts and the aluminum gets a white corrosion (aluminum rust). Unless the aluminum is pitted and the corrosion breeched the valve halves, I would guess it can be rebuilt.

I guess Andrew is becoming the SLS valve "go to guy".

Andrew, are you going to be offering the o-ring kits?

Douglas.Sherida · #37 01-03-2008, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I guess Andrew is becoming the SLS valve "go to guy".

Andrew, are you going to be offering the o-ring kits?

Yes, he says he will.

I'm mailing off my left over o-rings to him right now.

Biodiesel300TD · #38 01-03-2008, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I guess Andrew is becoming the SLS valve "go to guy".

Andrew, are you going to be offering the o-ring kits?

I was thinking about it. I have one or two that I want to rebuild, and plan on having them available for anyone that needs one.

OldPokey · #39 01-03-2008, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

To troubleshoot, and to flush, you can run some tractor hydraulic fluid in your system for a while. Tractor Supply would have it.

You can use ISO 46 hydraulic fluid until you fix all your leaks (buy it in a 2 gallon jug for less than $20). There are lots of hydraulic fluids out there, some that are not compatible with the rubber seals in the actuators ($$$) or pump ($$$$).

JimmyL · #40 01-03-2008, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldPokey

You can use ISO 46 hydraulic fluid until you fix all your leaks (buy it in a 2 gallon jug for less than $20). There are lots of hydraulic fluids out there, some that are not compatible with the rubber seals in the actuators ($$$) or pump ($$$$).

Ah, much better to have specific info like that above. Nice!

vstech · #41 01-04-2008, 12:00 AM

ya suppose this stuff would work?
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tbi.aspx

JimmyL · #42 01-04-2008, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

ya suppose this stuff would work?
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tbi.aspx

It's more expensive than the MB stuff!!!!

n0rt75o · #43 01-04-2008, 09:59 AM

will look when able as its stored for the winter. i may need to replace sls valve as i am sure its crumbling, so will keep an eye on the posts in the tween time

bears4x4 · #44 01-05-2008, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

If and when the OP - bears 4X4, returns.........we may then find out what he's found to be the situation with his car. I like to go first class too.

Well I'm picking up in the morn, the ISO 46 hydraulic fluid until i find / fix all my leaks, then ill put the correct one in. the car isn't moving till i get it (mostly working) working

, i did drive it home from the farm that i bought it at but other than the 50 miles from there i haven't driven it.

( the car was in a barn for a few years parked so I'm still looking it over at the moment). to drive it list to fix goes as -new lights / bulbs ext and dash, two new tires, wiper blades and repair sls(

) will look at this weekend. thanks for all the suggestions, Ive been doing my own Lil research as well and do love all the tips, 400-500 to replace it all doesn't sound bad at all, but hopefully i wont have to spent that much, even if so i only spent 800 on the car

Im one hell of a part puller as well so im sure ill be at some parts places soon.

bears4x4 · #45 03-09-2008, 12:05 AM

well the car had been put on hold for a bit due to a job change but a old friend of mine which i just talk to again for a first in a long time by chance is a Mercedes mechanic and said he will come by this week and check her out for me top to bottom, its going to be a interesting learning exp. ill keep you all posted, car started up no problem first turn in a month