This is for the 126:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRodMount
How much of this is applicable to the 123?
If I opt to replace this on the 123 do I then need the spring compressor?

I'm feeling fairly certain that this is all but gone (it's likely the one that came with the car), and while I'm doing everything else I may consider doing these as well (pending cost).

Cheers,
-nB

Edit: Hey! Those mounts ain't cheap! http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=28Y027V232A818IOFZ&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=L&part=Guide+Rod+Mount
Lets re-asses and ask: How hard to do just the mounts? and not the whole thing...
Would this be something I could take along with the spindle to the indy?
-nB

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

First on the spring compressor: the others are right, you only absolutely have to use it if the LCA comes off. When I did mine I did the LCA bushings as well - you need to press them in, I was at an auto hobby shop on base so wanted to do all the work that needed a press together. I also didnt want to have to pay for multiple alignments, although if you count carefully on the guide rod mounts you probably can get close enough that you can make it without one.

When my guide rod mounts went, I could feel the car make a "swimming" motion immediately after braking. It become quite noticeable and annoying.

All of this is on my 126, but AFAIK the front end suspensions on the two are essentially the same.

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

That's the tie rod separator. I've heard it will work. They have a beefier ball joint separator tool that looks almost identical. I think their online catalog might have confused the pictures for the two. My store had both in stock, so I went with the beefier, balll joint version. The two prongs on the bottom on it are not as thin and don't come to a point like on the tie rod popper though, they're just blunt, rounded ends which I couldn't get past the boot, so I ground them as so:



Sorry I can't provide part num since I can't figure out which is which. What was boxed in the store as a ball joint separator looks like their catalog picture of the tie rod separator and visa versa.



The w123 has guide mounts and rod, etc. It looks a bit different, but is pretty much the same. I've heard the guide rod mounts can be replaced without removing the LCA, and therefore without a spring compressor. IIRC it was something about using the vehicle jack in the wheel well to provice clearance for removing the shaft. I'm thinking of doing mine this summer, but since I already have the spring compressor, I'm not banking on those instructions being correct or even safe -- I'll "just" pull the spring if I need to.

The guide mount is bolted to the car so I'm not sure why you'd want to take them along to the indie? Looks like you unbolt the old and bolt in the new. Am I missing something?

Answered my own question. On the 1995 300SD in the article, the guide rod mount is separate from the bracket that bolts it to the car, necessitating pressing the old one out of the bracket and the new one in. On the w123 (or, at least my 1983 300Dturbo), the mounting bracket is integral with the guide rod mount, so it should be a swap replacement.

__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

Lots of pics, but too big by a couple KB to upload to the forum, posted on http://networkboy.net/merc/index.shtml
It's currently very rough, doesn't even render correctly (I'll be fixing that in a couple days) but I wanted to get the pictures up ASAP, and couldn't just upload them here as they were too big .


Basically, this evening I managed to R&R the UCAs and center Tie Rod. Also removed are the wheel spindle assemblies and left and right tie rods.
I'll be off to the indy tomorrow to have the old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in, then will be re-installing everything.

One thing is obvious: The AC was installed after the UCA! Man that bolt was hard to clear past the evaporator lines... It was the hardest part of the job

Some of the best pics are in-lined below from my site, tons more there:
Left UCA Ball Joint:


Left UCA Bushing:


Left UCA Mount:


I'm thinking this may be where the "groaning" over speed bumps came from?
It literally fell apart in my hands as I pulled it from between the hard points on the chassis!


Man oh man I can't wait to put it back together, get it aligned, new tires and DRIVE!

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

HOLY MOLEY!

It's a new car! (*aside from the bad #3 cylinder*)
Got back from the alignment ($55 5 point w/ the MB approved laser). Tires were down to cord on the driver outer shoulder and passenger inner shoulder.
It wasn't bad for eyeballing the alignment while on stands, but it was by no means "drivable" Never got over 30mph on my way to the alignment. After that it was off to get tires: 205T14 pirellis *sweet* ride. Unbelievable difference in steering and handling, also: NO MORE NOISE going over bumps.

Now to save up cash to deal with #3.
-nB

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com