Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - Page 23 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gsxr · #1 11-30-2012, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

LOL. probably. The question is..is it really that big of deal lol. I'm averaging 33 mpg right now. Would like to jump up 3-4 mpg but probably not going to happen easily, especially with 70-75 mph averages.

I hate to burst your bubble, but 33mpg is darn good. Over the ~30kmi that I owned my 124.128 it averaged right around 30mpg, and the best-ever peak was 33.0mpg, with a few tanks in the 32.x range. The car was fully tuned up (new timing chain, IP timing tweaked, synthetic fluids, etc etc) These numberes were all using the crap low-BTU diesel we get in the PNW, so if you live somewhere with "good" diesel, ~33mpg average is right on target.

There is literally nothing you can do to tweak the motor to get another 3-4mpg. The only thing I can think of that would provide that result (with no other changes) is a 5-speed manual with overdrive 5th gear. My nephew has a .128 with 5-sp and it has gotten ~36mpg on a long freeway trip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Right now what IS worth dealing with is these two noises. One is in a door and goes away after about 20 minutes of driving and the other is this low pitch whistling of wind/air somewhere in the passenger side. Its akin to growling but sounds like wind whisping around something. Not a clue.

The whistling/air noise... check the felt window channel in the door, look for any loose or misplaced trim, and - I swear - if you have any big chips in the windshield, get them fixed. Our car had a wind noise whistle that I could never track down and then after I had all the stone dings in the windshield repaired, voila! The noise vanished and never returned.

shertex · #2 11-30-2012, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

I hate to burst your bubble, but 33mpg is darn good. Over the ~30kmi that I owned my 124.128 it averaged right around 30mpg, and the best-ever peak was 33.0mpg, with a few tanks in the 32.x range. The car was fully tuned up (new timing chain, IP timing tweaked, synthetic fluids, etc etc) These numberes were all using the crap low-BTU diesel we get in the PNW, so if you live somewhere with "good" diesel, ~33mpg average is right on target.

There is literally nothing you can do to tweak the motor to get another 3-4mpg. The only thing I can think of that would provide that result (with no other changes) is a 5-speed manual with overdrive 5th gear. My nephew has a .128 with 5-sp and it has gotten ~36mpg on a long freeway trip.

Ditto. I've got two of these cars in excellent condition. I have NEVER seen higher than 32/33 mpg....and that's over a combined 130,000 miles of driving.

JamesDean · #3 11-30-2012, 11:33 AM

Look what you guys have done! My bubble, she is dead. You've both burst it to death. LOL.

I almost hit 35 mpg on the last tank, it was darn close. I think with the cruise control FULLY functional it might do it. My foot power usually tips it toward 75-80. I also thought that with non-winter diesel I would do slightly better. I live in North eastern Ohio. I dont think we get nice diesel either.

shertex · #4 11-30-2012, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Look what you guys have done! My bubble, she is dead. You've both burst it to death. LOL.

I almost hit 35 mpg on the last tank, it was darn close. I think with the cruise control FULLY functional it might do it. My foot power usually tips it toward 75-80. I also thought that with non-winter diesel I would do slightly better. I live in North eastern Ohio. I dont think we get nice diesel either.

You must be one of those wacko hyper-milers to get 35+mpg!

JamesDean · #5 11-30-2012, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

You must be one of those wacko hyper-milers to get 35+mpg!

Haha no not that crazy. Creature comforts must stay. My commute is like 99% highway.

Actually tomorrow I'm going to install the 143a alternator. So I can finally use my subwoofer I installed a few weeks back.

On the topic of noises, I've got one in my passenger door that wont quit! If I push on the door panel just above the end of the arm-rest, kind of in-line with the lock plunger it'll stop. But that makes driving awkward, having to lean over the whole time!

shertex · #6 11-30-2012, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

On the topic of noises, I've got one in my passenger door that wont quit! If I push on the door panel just above the end of the arm-rest, kind of in-line with the lock plunger it'll stop. But that makes driving awkward, having to lean over the whole time!

Is it perhaps the would trim that's rattling? My 92 was doing that till I wedged some paper in there.

JamesDean · #7 12-03-2012, 10:08 AM

Yep you dont have to remove the turbo to do this swap. You can unbolt the bracket that holds the actuator or unbolt the actuator from the bracket whichever you can access easiest.

auspumpen · #8 12-03-2012, 09:13 PM

Personally, I recommend taking the turbo off so that you can visually ensure that the actuator is both fully opening and closing the wastegate on a bench. It's a bit more hassle to go that route, but the peace of mind is worth the effort. These turbos are way way way easier to remove than the NA versions on the OM603.96

JamesDean · #9 01-27-2013, 11:05 AM

I think any car that had a T25/T28/GT28 turbo. Thats what the ebay actuator I bought said it was compatible with so I think any of those would be suitable.

Gwalter · #10 02-03-2013, 10:47 AM

My son and I did the swap too about a week ago. Dramatic difference. Consistent power. Took about 2 hours doing most of the work from underneath. I left the turbo installed. Hardest part (to me) was the little e-clip that holds the control rod onto the wastegate lever since it's ideal to use two hands but you can only get one up there. It broke when i tried to install it since it was rusted. Ended up using another stainless one my son had. I actually tried to find a new e-clip from the dealer. No luck. It seems it is part of some other entire assembly you'd have to buy. I just went to Home Depot and I found some 3/16" e-clips that look right but I'm not sure yet if they are. I bought them to have around in case. Anyone know what size the clip REALLY is?

Note. I ended up going the route of adding more threads (thanks to my mechanic) to the rod and cutting off about 1 centimeter off the end as originally described to achieve the shortened length. Looking at it though I also knew that using "spacers" would work like others had done. I also contemplated drilling a new hole in the flat end of the control rod adjuster in a location that would be "shorter" than the stock old hole. I would have then cut off the original hole and smoothed it over. This APPEARS to be an option since the final dimensions/length might be achievable this way. Just a thought in case you don't have the die tool and want to take the time to measure things.

I now hear the slight turbo spooling up consistently and the overall drive-ability is excellent.

Next up is a boost gauge installation.

shertex · #11 08-20-2013, 01:07 PM

I assume I hold the record for having read the most about the swap without ever having done it. Well, ordered the actuator this morning. ATP does have it in stock, in case anyone was wondering.

joegolden · #12 08-20-2013, 07:40 PM

I don't know it may be a tie and I have done it just since yesterday

But you beat me to the first move...I haven't ordered yet but I am after dinner. Shertex did you just order it online? Thanks Joe

shertex · #13 08-20-2013, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joegolden

I don't know it may be a tie and I have done it just since yesterday

But you beat me to the first move...I haven't ordered yet but I am after dinner. Shertex did you just order it online? Thanks Joe

Yes, you can order online. While you're at it, you might want to order this fitting too. Fitting, Pressure Port, 90 degree, 1/8" NPT to 7/32" Barb Fitting : atpturbo.com

Gwalter · #14 08-21-2013, 04:03 PM

It's worth it. Place your order(s) today!

gsxr · #15 08-27-2013, 11:01 AM

Remember that the pressure wastegate conversion will not increase power, if the existing vacuum setup is working normally. There was no change in power before/after when I did my conversion. However it does allow for EGR deactivation. If you experience a power gain post-conversion, it just means that something in the original wastegate control was not working properly. Regardless, it's good news when you get it back to "normal" power levels.

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