Great!!

I just have some doubts regarding on the adjustments on the M pump. My reasoning is to install the 6.5 mm elements in the pump in the stock position. Then with the lever half way pressed, set the rack limiter, the idle adjustment and the full load start so the pump will behave as a standard M pump. With the actuator I should be able to allow the rack to travel further when boost builds up. Using a stop screw on the opposite side from the actuactor I can limit the movement, limiting the rack travel at peak pressures so I can control EGT's by limiting fuel delivery at full throttle. Using a springs I can control the behavior of the actuator based on the boost.

I've noticed that the Myna pumps have several adjustment from the outside. Why would I need those? I mean, I only need the "modified" pump when boost builds up... While cruising at low throttle position, the pump can behave as a standard pump... Is this because our folks at Myna adjust the pump when its installed? Or do they use a calibration bench?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

Hey, no cheating! You were looking at the modified pump from that other thread...

Attached Thumbnails

 

You're right Forced.... hahaha

But now, the idea of Myna folks on the externals of the pump is pretty good, but I haven't been able to figure how they adjust the internals... I mean, I've been checking several pump tuning books and I had a word with a guy from a Bosch service center. I still need to find out how this adjustment might interfere with the shut off mechanism and with the overall behavior of the pump.

It's very possible to fine tune the pump to behave accordingly for the 617 using 6.5 mm elements. The increase in the total volume pumped by the plungers is not that great, but I still don't get the point of having the adjustments outside the pump.

You know, fine tuning an IP is like brain surgery, there's no gap for mistake, so why have the option of changing the settings without a calibration bench?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

By the way, taking a look at the pic you posted, I presume that part # 5 will allow to adjust the governor to set a rev limit and part # 6 is some sort of cap to cover a whole made in the case so the rack can have enough room to move back and forth, and it might aswell work as a bump stop....

What do you think about my guess?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

A 5 speed in a Euro 300 is a sweet combo. A friend has one and that extra cylinder is nice too have compared too my 616s. He found his 5 speed in England.

$850 with all the "extras", drive shaft, linkage, shifter, sounds like a good price, buy all you can.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Actually, I have access to 3 trannys. If anyone is interested, I can get them for you, but we would have to figure a way of sending from here (Costa Rica) to States. I have a mailing address in FL, so I could have them shipped there. Later I can have them freight forwarded to somewhere else in States. This would be a good option, but the shipping from Costa Rica to FL is a killer!

Any thoughts on my ideas regarding the IP tweaking?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

I would image you've got a few people thinking, humm 'I wonder how many are laying in Bolivia, Guatemala, so long hon, I'll write when I fill up the 40' container".

When I swapped mine in I had both cars side by side and the only trouble I had was installing the wrong throw out bearing, theres an "early" and a "late".

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

And did you got the tranny from a Diesel or from a 280 gasser?

Physically the trans are identical, but they have different part number... AFAIK

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

It was from a nice running 82 Euro 240D, basically the same car as far as the swap went. The 82 Euro was still a fine car but wound up with a 4 speed. Oh, No I didn't do it in a parking lot in the middle of the night

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I would take the challenge of swapping a tranny that way... Two of my favorite things together! Wrenching and adrenaline...

Did you notices any difference in the car behavior in 1st to 4th gear? I mean were the ratio the same?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.

No, I didn't detect any difference in any gear . As far as I can tell, feel wise, its the same except one has an "overdrive". For being a totaly different tranny and shifter I couldn't tell the difference till I need 5th.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

The turbo crank and oil pan are different too.

The na euro 300 is pretty peppy. A 346 or 369 gear in the rear with a five speed will yield a pretty peppy performer.

Or swap in a complete turbo motor as noted above.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'll start looking around for a nice turbo engine. I already have access to the tranny. Already gave the guy a couple of $100's. I'm just looking for someone who will buy my 4-speed so I won't have to pay for the 5-speed with out of pocket money.

Now considering I have a 3.46 diff, is there any chance I can install an LSD pumpkin from a W126 into my diff... Basically, remove my satellite box and put th e LSD pumpkin there... Any ideas on this?

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1982 W123 300D NA Euro, 300K Miles, 4-speed manual, 3.46 rear diff, early W126 front brakes, Penta rims with 205/60R15 FH900's, custom fitted (by me) audio system, more to come into the money pit... Soon to be installed: Bilstein HD, R107 front discs and 4-piston calipers, HD Suspension springs, wagon front swaybar.