I have a 1983 300D Turbo that is in desperate need of the seals around the sunroof being replaced I have factory service manual and it does not give any help on the issue. I need to know what parts to order and the proper method of removing the old seals and installing the new ones.

Thank you for you help!

Ron Davis
1983 300D Turbo - 206K
1981 240D - 267K (sold)

Well you have a rubber seal across the front. two fuzzy strips along each side. and a rubber seal across the back of the sun roof lid.
To replace the rear seal will require removing the lid.
the two side pieces will require removing 3 or 4 phillip screws that screw in horizonally under the edge of the strip. gently pull them out, might have to wiggle on the metal strip that holds them.
The rubber piece across the front is a bear to get back into the grove it fits into. you have to start in the center and work out to each side. I used silicone spray to make it easier to work in. pay close attention as how the rubber comes out of the groove. I think the bottom fits in first then work the top in.
when you pull out the front piece, leave a short piece in for reference. leave a couple inches in on one side, then cut it off.
If you decide to remove the lid, open it 1/2 way or so, pull down on the front edge of the head liner. there are 6 clips that hold it in. slide it forward and up out of the opening.
The service manual should show you what screws to remove if you remove the lid. just mark around the screws so things stayed lined up.

Charlie ☺

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Using a wide flat tool to gently pry in addition to pulling down with your hand helps the removal of the headliner panel clips. If you pull with just your hand you risk bending the front edge of it.

Keep in mind, you may have to adjust your sunroof afterwards so it will close all the way. Most sunroofs have been adjusted over the years to compensate for the compression/aging of the seals.

I agree with Charlie on paying close attention to how the seal fits into the channel before you start. It can look like it's in there when it really isn't. I used Windex as my lube to help installation.

Follow the "Buy Parts" link at the top of the page and you will find the sunroof seals and felt side strips for your car.

Good luck.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

Thanks for the help guys!

Search for Bruce Kennedy's thread on converting an electric sunroof to a manual. He has some pics that will be of help when it comes to removing your sunroof. The most difficult part was seating the new seals. Perform a search for replacing sunroof seals for tips. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123SunRoofRepair/show?time=2008-02-27+14%3A15%3A28

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

I've done the front seal twice by starting w/the top half first. I would be interested to know if it can be done vice/versa. Also, make sure to remove the side seals before installing the front seal. The wind deflector must be taken out as well, but this is simple. The front seal is the MBZ job from hell.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

When I went to replace mine, I thought, "How hard can it be?" Just trying to get the rubber into the groove that holds it was a real challenge!

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Ditto. Make sure all the old rubber and crud is out of the grooves before attempting to install the new seal. Use some sort of wooden or plastic prod to help seat the new one, a screwdriver will puncture it.

John

__________________
Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

dee8go, did you ever get yours to close?

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

i just did my front seal last week... what a pain in the arse. And of course, it started to rain while I was doing it! Finally, about 3 hours later, it was in. Unfortunately I poked about 6 holes in it while trying to push it into the groove (It's not perfect, but, a lot better than the old dry rotted seal that was in there before). Use a wide and dull screwdriver to push the top lip into the groove after the bottom lip is in place.

__________________
1984 300TD Wagon

It closes about 98% of the way. I'm getting a couple of additional parts and hope to be making another stab at it this weekend. I had no idea this would turn into such a headache! I hope this will cure all the leaks finally.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

I will be attempting to do the front seal soon. What has to come out to access it/ get it out?

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1984 300d 360,000mi(sold, I miss it!)
1984 300D
1973 450se
1995 E300
2006 E350 4matic
2016 E250

That depends on how far you are prepared to strip out your car in order to get to it!

Most people seem to try and wiggle out the old and wiggle in the new.

If you are prepared to remove the front portion of the headlining - which means removal of rear view mirror and the sun visors then you can eventually reach some bolts that hold the sun roof tray to the car. If you loosen these then you'll have an easier time of it.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Go over to Weldingweb.com and learn how to weld up that hole in your roof.....
Problem solved forever .....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Agree. It is actually quicker doing it this way. Though it seems like more work, you are actually saving the time and effort of trying to fully seat the seal. The new seal has to be fully seated in order for the sunroof to close properly. You also reduce the risk of damaging the seal.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)