I'm starting my brake overhaul this weekend and plan to do the front wheel bearings while I have it apart.

I read about using the old bearing to drive out the race and using the old race backwards to drive in the new race (after 6 hours in the freezer). Is this a good idea or should I buy a race/seal driver set? I don't mind paying for a driver set, but if the other method works, I'd be OK with saving the money.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

I used a brass drift to drive the old race out.

Did you use any special technique? I'd imagine a brass drift mashing if I did it.
Did you use the drift to drive the new race back in too? How did you drive the seal in?

I did bearing races once before, but I used a press. I don't have access to one this time.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

I would not change the bearings if they weren't bad. Clean and regrease them and use a new seal.

There is a slight grind sound in both front wheels that I only hear when I rotate the wheels by hand. With almost 400K miles I figure they are probably ready, but I haven't looked at them yet. I already have the bearing kits, I just haven't decided how to deal with the races.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

I use a 8mm drift to drive out the old race. Using the old race to drive in the new works, a socket works better because it's taller and gets your fingers further away from the hammer. A seal and race driver works much, much better.

brass drift. just like any other race I've ever done. the mbz design is a pain- there is barely enough race to get an edge on for removal. but it is not too big of a deal, about 35 minutes/side.

I got a cheepie drift from HF for $10, works fine.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Is this the one you use?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37038

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

no. the one I got is just a straight drift- 7/8 or 1" in diameter. that one, the straight one is only 1/2. sold solo- not a combo deal. I walked in and bought, so I dont have a PN...

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Using the old race works well, but I would recommend that you don't use it "backwards." The old race will typically seat to some degree; if it's in backwards it's tough to knock out, as the shoulder is facing the wrong way.

To remove the inner race, I use a large 1/2" drive socket installed backwards on an extension bar. The larger circumference of the socket shoulder (as compared to drift) gives a better grip on the shoulder of the bearing cup.

That makes perfect sense, thanks for the tips.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

Well I did the bearings on the driver side today and it went smoothly.

I used a 3/8" round drift to drive out the old races and I got a race/seal driver to drive the new ones in.

Tomorrow I'll finish up the passenger side and get the new calipers and pads on. So far this has been an enjoyable project.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

If you are going to throw the old bearing race away is there a reason you cannot use a steel drift?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

a steel drift tends to tear up the inside of the rotor hub. makes replacing the bearing an iffy proposition... that being said, I use a steel drift, I am just carefull not to damage the hub.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Exactly. I think a steel drift transfers more of the impact to where you want it to go and if you use something like a 1-1.5 pound hammer all you have to do is tap instead of hit on the end of the drift. Let the weight of the hammer do the job making it easier to control so that you don't hit the inside of the hub.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel