Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-19-2008, 09:50 PM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
1st time fuel filter change

So I changed my fuel filters this afternoon. It went something like this: changed the prefilter, unscrewed the main filter, emtied it into a gas can, put new filter on, took new filter off cause I forgot to fill it w ATF, put new filter w ATF on, primed the system, and started the car. She fired right up.

Shut the engine off, and looked for leaks. Found one from the big hex bolt. tightened. restarted. still leaking. I repeated that a couple of times.

The car wouldn't start after the second "leak check". Still won't. So, what'd I do wrong?

It was my first time changing a fuel filter that wasn't attached to a lawn mower.

There's a chance that I had the wrong main filter. It was a made in spain Bosch. The filter that came off the car was a Hengst made in germany. The seals on the filter looked a little different, but generally similar.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-19-2008, 10:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 604
did you replace the rubber washers on the shaft (i think there is one) and the crush washer between the big bolt and the filter housing?
__________________
-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-19-2008, 10:48 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 44,508
I changed my filter thinking that I would not need to change the O-rins on the big 24mm filter bolt I was wrong and it leaked. I lucky I was able to find some that worked from a bunch of American size ones that I have. I learned that before I start the job have the O-rings in hand (or if yours has only 1 O-ring that 1 o-ring and the crush washer that goes under the head of the bolt).
After you filled the filter with ATF it is still a good idea to do some pumping with the hand primer (if there is one) to get rid of the air. If not it is best to run the car longer and make sure all the air is out.
If a lot of air is in the system sometimes it is easier on the battery and sarter if you loosen some of the fuel injection lines up by the Injectors and crank the engine until fuel spurts out and retighten them.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-19-2008, 11:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 604
diesel911,

i could not remember how many there were but i think there are two just like yours in your post.
__________________
-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:17 AM
Jimmy Joe's Avatar
peace out
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: California central coast
Posts: 1,004
I used to crack injector lines, but now just crack the out-going banjo bolt on the main filter. Then prime till fuel flows. I don't even bother filling the filter anymore, this works so good.

If your seals are sealing, chances are you just still have air in there. Crack that center out-going banjo bolt, prime like crazy till you have solid fuel, and I bet she starts fine.
__________________
Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:22 AM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79300sdtd View Post
did you replace the rubber washers on the shaft (i think there is one) and the crush washer between the big bolt and the filter housing?
There was no rubber washer on the shaft. I reused the crush washer.
__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:25 AM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy Joe View Post
I used to crack injector lines, but now just crack the out-going banjo bolt on the main filter. Then prime till fuel flows. I don't even bother filling the filter anymore, this works so good.

If your seals are sealing, chances are you just still have air in there. Crack that center out-going banjo bolt, prime like crazy till you have solid fuel, and I bet she starts fine.
I'll consider this option. Though I primed like crazy already. I pumped until fuel was coming out of the hand pump.

I figure the leak is a separate issue from the no start. Am I wrong?
__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:52 AM
Deutsch Autogeliebter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: va
Posts: 19
If the leak in the primer pump was bad enough I would think you could draw more air into the system.Did you put the two filter seals up to each other?Make sure the rubber seal on the old screw on filter matches the new one.Different brand filters can have slightly different diameter cans but as long as the ports match up and the seal on the bottom it should be good.When I changed my fuel filters last the big bolt on the top of the can leaked for a little while tightened it up and i was good to go.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-20-2008, 01:14 AM
Jimmy Joe's Avatar
peace out
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: California central coast
Posts: 1,004
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
I pumped until fuel was coming out of the hand pump.

I figure the leak is a separate issue from the no start. Am I wrong?
In my case (i had a poor primer pump that i put up with for ages, then finally swapped out; and I primed A LOT as I installed a veg oil system)- priming has worked for me only when I had a line or that banjo bolt cracked to allow air to escape. Just pumping, with no outlet for the air, never worked for me. My old pump would leak like a sieve, and require lots of pumps, but still did the job. My new pump does not leak, requires substantially less pumping, and works- but I always crack that bolt to allow the air somewhere to go.

Could be you have a poor pump. Probably needs tons of pumping, more than one would think necessary. Likely you still have air in the system; hopefully you are not still drawing it in somewhere. But imho you absolutely must crack an injector lone or that banjo bolt and pump till no more air remains.
__________________
Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-20-2008, 02:05 AM
TylerH860's Avatar
KHAAAAAAN-gress
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 5,187
I changed my fuel filters for the first time around Xmas time. Had the same issue with the bolt, temporarily fixed with some sealer, later did the job right.
__________________
1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-20-2008, 05:58 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
There was no rubber washer on the shaft. I reused the crush washer.
You will need a new crush washer. They are a one time use item. Not all engines have them, tho.
On the bolt there should be a machined slot for a rubber "O" ring to fit in, if you don't have one, find one.
Replace the primer also, or at least replace the fuel lines going to it.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-20-2008, 09:29 AM
Cervan's Avatar
Crazy mechanic.
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: olympia washington
Posts: 1,809
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
You will need a new crush washer. They are a one time use item. Not all engines have them, tho.
On the bolt there should be a machined slot for a rubber "O" ring to fit in, if you don't have one, find one.
Replace the primer also, or at least replace the fuel lines going to it.
those new style pumps are soooo much nicer i just got one for my 240d after two years of the old squirting one. i dont even have to pull it up!
__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-20-2008, 10:47 AM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
You will need a new crush washer. They are a one time use item. Not all engines have them, tho.
On the bolt there should be a machined slot for a rubber "O" ring to fit in, if you don't have one, find one.
Replace the primer also, or at least replace the fuel lines going to it.
I have an O ring in the garage, but since an O ring wasn't on the bolt or anywhere else, I didn't use the new O ring. There was a black band around the mid-section of the bolt. It wasn't a ring though as it was flush with the bolt; had flat sides. Didn't look like it was meant to come off or replace, so I left it.

Regarding the primer, I pumped until fuel spilled out of it. Should I keep pumping? that seem's unnecessary to me...but what do I know.

What are the spec's of the copper crush washer? And can I do/replace anything now that will allow me to never have to use a copper crush washer again? they're too hard to find.
__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:31 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 44,508
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
I have an O ring in the garage, but since an O ring wasn't on the bolt or anywhere else, I didn't use the new O ring. There was a black band around the mid-section of the bolt. It wasn't a ring though as it was flush with the bolt; had flat sides. Didn't look like it was meant to come off or replace, so I left it.

Regarding the primer, I pumped until fuel spilled out of it. Should I keep pumping? that seem's unnecessary to me...but what do I know.

What are the spec's of the copper crush washer? And can I do/replace anything now that will allow me to never have to use a copper crush washer again? they're too hard to find.
If you previously filled the fuel filter I ment use the priming pump before you start the car. It is hard to describe it but when you pump with the primer pump and the are starts leaving the IP you well he a buzzing, deep squeeling sound and keep pumping some more and at that point the air is out of the IP housing.
If air gets up into the Fuel injection lines between the IP and The Fuel Injectors it takes too much cranking with the engine to purge it. As I said if you loosen some of the Fuel Injectio Line nuts up by the Fuel Injectors ie bleed out fast.
Check this PDF below to see the factory method of bleeding the air out after a filter change:
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/07_1-140.pdf
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:39 PM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If you previously filled the fuel filter I ment use the priming pump before you start the car. It is hard to describe it but when you pump with the primer pump and the are starts leaving the IP you well he a buzzing, deep squeeling sound and keep pumping some more and at that point the air is out of the IP housing.
If air gets up into the Fuel injection lines between the IP and The Fuel Injectors it takes too much cranking with the engine to purge it. As I said if you loosen some of the Fuel Injectio Line nuts up by the Fuel Injectors ie bleed out fast.
Check this PDF below to see the factory method of bleeding the air out after a filter change:
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/07_1-140.pdf
Great, thanks. I'll do this tonight. I pumped before starting the car, a lot. The prefilter filled with fuel and the pump became hard to move, so I thought that was sufficient.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page