In the past during rebuilds of truck Turbochargers I have used the silver Never-Seeze type compounds on bolts that hold to Turbo Charger exhaust housing to the Turbo bearing housing, Turbo mouting studs/nuts and numerous exhaust manifold bolts and have never experienced any negative results from using it. The stuff is cheap and it simply works and a small tube will last you through a lot of jobs.

It also is helpful in marine enviorments as coating the theads of bolts helps reduce the chance of rust.

I cannot imagine that any sort of grease would be able to take the heat better then anti-seeze compounds.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I was just thinking that anti-sieze has a solid component to it's composition, which could cause binding if it dries up or gets contaminated with carbon. Grease has no solid component and there is no way it could bind. High temp brake grease can take temps over 1500-2000 degrees without running. The upper portion of the glow plug is in the head, the water jacket is most likley running coolant through this area, I would be suprised if it sees more than 500 degrees at any time. The tip is another story but there is nothing that can be done about that.

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

I purchased a reamer from an ebay seller for my 96 e300d, and had no problem doing any of the plug locations. I just coated the end of the reamer with grease, and worked it in slowly. I was surprised at the amount of carbon I was able to get out.

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96 E300d

Remember the seller? How much?

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

I am open minded; it sounds like the grease will work. It may even be that the BERU Glow Plug Grease is the same thing with a different name on it. Give the grease a try and report back on it.
Howerer, the Glow Plugs are supposed seal on the tapered area just behind the heating element and no carbon is supposed to get past there to mix with either Never-Seeze or Grease.
I only put Never-Seeze on the threaded area of the Glow Plug. The fact that it has solids is part of how it works; it fills up the clearances between the threads (not allowing air and moisture to come in contact with the parts) in the Cylinder Head and the threads on the Glow Plug and when it gets hot dose not run out. It has certainly with stood the test of time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I agree, all of my glow plugs had no carbon or rust on the large diameter portion of the plug. The only area that was stuck was the actual thin heating element, which you can't put anything on. If I do the grease we won't know for about 3 years what will happen.

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

Think the seller on ebay was El Paso tools, and I paid about $48. It ended up being the same that Baum tools sells for around $60. That was in the early spring of last year.

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96 E300d

Well it's mostly back together. I reamed out all the glow plug holes, and as I thought the only ones that had any carbon were the two that were stuck. I repeated the reaming untill I could drive the reamer home by hand. I took a shot at something new, I coated the threads of the new glowplugs with anti-sieze but put a coating of high temp synthetic grease on the body of the plug. We will see in a few years what happens.

Some of the wiring was peeling so I patched it up as best as I could, new engine harness next time.

I do have a problem, I have a large vacume line that I dont know where it goes. It comes up from under the front of the engine. I marked everything else so this one must have been pulled off while I was fighting with the glow plugs.

I think it has something to do with the transmission because I took the car for a ride and the car shifts very hard under low and part throtle shifts. Shifts fine when you are on the gas hard. I have a vacume diagram but it's hard to follow and I can't see where this line comes from. I thought it came from the intake manifold but I labeled all of those and reconnected them.

I am stumped. I think I am going to block off the line and see if it shifts any better. Car runs great otherwise.

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

Anybody? Could realy use the help.




Nevermind I found it, runs great now.

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car