1996 E300D (W210, OM606) ignition switch removal? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jeremy5848 · #1 06-18-2008, 12:21 AM

Anyone have removal instructions for the ignition switch on the W210 cars, specifically a 1996 E300D? Can I do it without removing the key cylinder, which requires a special tool? I have a starting problem (not K40, replaced it) and want to remove the ignition switch for possible repair or replacement (hopefully not the latter, it is a $400 part

).

I have managed to get the lower dash panel off without getting blood on the car (but that's another story) and can see the lock cylinder/switch assembly in all its glory, just don't know how to remove it.

Jeremy

nhdoc · #2 06-18-2008, 07:23 AM

Can you describe the problem you are having?

I would assume you have tried multiple keys? I have worn out both original keys which came with my '98 and had to buy replacements. They became intermittent (sometimes they would work, sometimes not).

I think you unscrew the ring around the lock to release it and work from the back beneath, but I have only heard of one W210 ever needing a new ignition lock so that is why I asked what trouble you were having.

You can loosen the locking ring with one of those "grippy" rubber pads used as a jar opener. That's what I used to tighten mine. When I got the car it was loose and drove me nuts.

Jeremy5848 · #3 06-18-2008, 12:13 PM

I seem to have a hard time getting my point across. I must be an even worse writer than I thought.

The issue is not the lock, it is the electrical part, the switch. We have several keys and they all work (turn) just fine in all of the cylinders on the car. Never a problem.

The problem is that sometimes the car won't start. In position #2, all of the idiot lights should be on (glow plug, check engine, etc.). When the problem occurs (randomly), only the SRS light is on. The engine will crank but not fire. It is not the K40 relay, that's been replaced. It is not the electrical part of the IP, that wouldn't affect the dash lights. No codes are thrown. If we keep trying the key switch, eventually the car will start. Once started, it never dies on its own (another K40 symptom that others have reported).

The next step is the switch ($400). If it isn't the switch it's one of the computers ($1000). I'd rather it be the switch, of course. I'm trying to replace the less expensive stuff first. Since electrical parts are non-returnable, I end up with a stack of unusable new parts (anyone need a brand-new K40 relay?).

What I need to learn, then, is how to R&R the ignition switch.

Jeremy

nhdoc · #4 06-18-2008, 12:26 PM

Here, hopefully this will be what you need. If you want a bigger copy PM me an email address and I will email a pdf of the page.

Jeremy5848 · #5 06-18-2008, 12:35 PM

PM sent. Thank you.

Jeremy5848 · #6 06-21-2008, 03:36 PM

The manuals/instructions are worse than wrong, they're not even for the same type of ignition switch! This is not to heap any blame at all on those who have been so kind as to offer their support -- the dealer doesn't list the right part either!

Once I had the ignition "module" (lock cylinder plus switch package) out of the car, I figured out how to remove the switch assembly. I'll post pictures and a DIY later, when my hands are cleaner. The switch carries the Mercedes part # 210 545 06 04. It is a purely mechanical switch -- pins and contacts -- no electronics.

However, both the EPC and Smothers European show part number 210 545 03 08, which is an electronic switch (has a little pc board on it) and costs $500. This may be because my car is a very early '96 model (low VIN and mfg date 10/95).

Now that I have the switch out, I can test it to see if some of the contacts in switch position 2 are flakey. If so, I may be able to clean them and restore the swich to normal operation. If not, I'll replace the switch. maybe it won't be as expensive as the electronic version.

Note: This version of the switch takes the old-style metal key. The electronic key was introduced later (1997?).

Jeremy

Jeremy5848 · #7 06-21-2008, 05:07 PM

In the process of learning how to take the switch out and put it back in, I figured out how to make the problem come and go. There is a fault inside the switch in which Pin 15 doesn't get connected to Pin 30 at switch position #2. By "authoritatively" snapping into the #2 position, the switch almost always works; if you are wimpy about it, the contact won't work.

Monday I'll check with the dealer, see if they can find the right part number and come up with a less-than-$500 price. If so, I'll buy a new switch; if still very expensive, I'll try to take the old switch apart and clean the contacts. Interestingly, the part number for the switch in the car (210 545 06 04) is not in the EPC.

The switch has covers that are held on with detents and clips so it will be possible to take apart, I'm just a little leery of internal parts that may go "sproing!" as they fly to some remote corner of the garage.

The switch and lock cylinder are back in the car, which is therefore drivable for the moment. I'll work over my pictures and post a DIY later this weekend. And my fingers are healing (details in the DIY

).

Jeremy

Jeremy5848 · #8 06-23-2008, 03:22 PM

Today (Monday 23 June 2008), Smothers European found me a replacement ignition switch for the 1996 E300D. It was about $100 and they even had it in stock. It took quite a bit of searching, for the EPC had initially located the wrong switch, a $500 electronic thing meant for later cars. The parts guy had no idea why this parts system failure occurred.

The switch that my 1996 E300D had in it from the factory (210 545 06 04) is not in the system at all. We did find a part number for the combination of the switch and a "protective sleeve," a metal part that holds the lock tumbler and the switch. It is 210 460 02 97 and costs about $135 without the lock cylinder. A little further searching of the system found just the switch, actually designed for another car but very similar to mine, 129 545 02 04 for $122. With the 15% MBCA discount, I went out the door with the new switch for $112.

The new switch has a couple of pins that mine does not have -- my cable will simply ignore those pins as it does not have matching contacts but the plug is the same size and shape. The installation will be simple. I'll then get to work on the DIY.

For other 210 owners, I'll note that the switch that I bought is obviously for a W129 car, whatever that is (an S-class of some kind?). However, I can't find the new switch (129 545 02 04) in the EPC either. The dealer's parts people are full of horror stories regarding the difficulty of R&Ring the ignition switch in W210 cars but this apparently involves the later models with the electronic key, not the 1996. I don't know if this change started with the 1997 or 1998 model year. Someone else here may be able to shed light on the confusion -- I cannot.

I'm just happy to have fixed the problem with the car occasionally not wanting to start for only $100 instead of $500.

Jeremy

briandownunda · #9 01-03-2011, 08:34 AM

Hi Jeremy,

Any chance you might have the part number for that replacement switch that you bought? Also, any chance you remember the steps to replace?

Thanks in advance!

Brian

Jeremy5848 · #10 01-03-2011, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by briandownunda

Hi Jeremy,

Any chance you might have the part number for that replacement switch that you bought? Also, any chance you remember the steps to replace?

Thanks in advance!

Brian

The part number is listed in the posts above. Part 1 of the DIY is at this link. This covers removal of the lower dash panel so you can access the ignition switch. Don't get blood on the dash like I did.

Here is the second part of the procedure, which I never posted as promised in Part 1 (sorry!). This applies to 1996 USA models only. It might apply to other parts of the world, I don't know. It does not apply to the 1997 E300D as that model got the $500 electronic switch, more's the pity.

Disconnect the battery negative cable as a safety precaution.

To unscrew the ignition switch bezel, you need a special US$50 Mercedes tool, 639 589 01 07. You may be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers, just don't booger up the dash covering and then blame me!

The key must be in position 1 and must never, never, never be moved until the whole thing is back together. If you violate this rule, the ignition switch locks internally and cannot be fixed or so Mercedes says. I would tend to believe that.

If you use a bare key without your entire household key ring hanging from it, the lock will be much easier to remove. (The key must stay in the lock as it is removed from the dash.)

Remove the cable from the ignition switch assembly.

With the cable out of the way, use two small screwdrivers or pin punches to depress the two spring-loaded pins that hold the switch assembly on the steering lock. The steering lock stays in the car.

With the pins pushed in, the ignition switch module can be pushed forward (towards the front of the car) and come out of the steering lock. Now you can unscrew the transmission lock cable.

The assembly consists of the ignition switch and a plastic "sleeve."

Follow the instructions in the next picture to remove the switch from the sleeve. The sleeve doesn't have to be replaced and is also expensive so you don't want to break it in the process. The lock stays in the sleeve and the key stays in the lock. Make sure you take pictures so you can put the new switch back exactly as the old one came out including being in position #1.

I never got an explanation from the dealer as to the change in part numbers for the ignition switch for my '96 E300D. I brought the old switch with me when I went to the dealer. They ended up finding the replacement switch listed for another car, I don't remember which, possibly an S-class. For my car they found in EPC the 1997 electronic switch which is (a) wrong for my car and (b) US$500.

You have to move a plastic piece from the old switch to the new one.

I discovered after buying the new switch that the old one simply had burned contacts and was repairable. I took the switch apart and buffed the brass (copper alloy?) contacts. The repaired old switch now lives in my spare parts box.

Put the new/repaired switch in the sleeve and make sure it locks in place. Reattach the transmission lock cable. Put the assembly back into the steering lock. The upper pin may be hard to get depressed. Both pins must pop back into place. Make sure they do. Put the electrical cable back on the switch. Screw the bezel back on. Before putting the lower dash cover back, try the switch (mechanically) to make sure it works properly. Then reconnect battery negative and try it electrically.

I think that's it. Anyone spotting errors please advise so I can edit. No warranty is expressed or implied. YMMV.

Jeremy

Fredmburgess · #11 01-03-2011, 10:22 PM

Great thread, Jeremy. Just fyi, the electronic key/switch was introduced for the '98 W210. We've got a '98 and a '99 plus a '99 parts car. That switch is one of the things we'll salvage before it goes to the scrap yard!

briandownunda · #12 01-04-2011, 08:33 AM

Hi Jeremy,

Thanks so much for posting all of this great information!....I will begin the dissassembly tonight!.....

Cheers,

Brian

Jeremy5848 · #13 01-04-2011, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by briandownunda

Hi Jeremy,

Thanks so much for posting all of this great information!....I will begin the dissassembly tonight!.....

Cheers,

Brian

Brian, make sure you also read the complete thread here (thanx to moderator whunter for the merge of part 1 and part 2). I still don't understand the part number discrepancy for the ignition switch bu then, the dealer doesn't understand either.

Are you really "downunda" (Oz or Middle Earth) or just "downunda the car?"

Jeremy

Riptide110 · #14 02-16-2011, 05:58 PM

Jeremy,

What types of problems where you having to come to conclusion of ignition switch? I also have a 1996 E300D with 220,000+ miles. I had work down on vehicle and they replaced transmission shifter lock cable (which they said was broken that caused the gear shift to lock which had to be replaced due to trying to “force” out of gear.) After a week back from shop vehicle wouldn’t/won’t start. Had a slow crank so thought it was battery and replaced. Still has very slow crank and won't fire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris.

Jeremy5848 · #15 02-16-2011, 11:55 PM

Problem was that car would not crank. The dash lights and accessories worked. Repeated attempts eventually succeeded but I didn't want my wife to get stranded (her car).

A very slow crank suggests a weak battery or a poor connection from battery to starter to ground. Be sure to check the ground strap from engine to chassis. Could be a bad starter (worn brushes) especially if original at that milage.