Anyone have removal instructions for the ignition switch on the W210 cars, specifically a 1996 E300D? Can I do it without removing the key cylinder, which requires a special tool? I have a starting problem (not K40, replaced it) and want to remove the ignition switch for possible repair or replacement (hopefully not the latter, it is a $400 part ).

I have managed to get the lower dash panel off without getting blood on the car (but that's another story) and can see the lock cylinder/switch assembly in all its glory, just don't know how to remove it.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Can you describe the problem you are having?

I would assume you have tried multiple keys? I have worn out both original keys which came with my '98 and had to buy replacements. They became intermittent (sometimes they would work, sometimes not).

I think you unscrew the ring around the lock to release it and work from the back beneath, but I have only heard of one W210 ever needing a new ignition lock so that is why I asked what trouble you were having.

You can loosen the locking ring with one of those "grippy" rubber pads used as a jar opener. That's what I used to tighten mine. When I got the car it was loose and drove me nuts.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I seem to have a hard time getting my point across. I must be an even worse writer than I thought.

The issue is not the lock, it is the electrical part, the switch. We have several keys and they all work (turn) just fine in all of the cylinders on the car. Never a problem.

The problem is that sometimes the car won't start. In position #2, all of the idiot lights should be on (glow plug, check engine, etc.). When the problem occurs (randomly), only the SRS light is on. The engine will crank but not fire. It is not the K40 relay, that's been replaced. It is not the electrical part of the IP, that wouldn't affect the dash lights. No codes are thrown. If we keep trying the key switch, eventually the car will start. Once started, it never dies on its own (another K40 symptom that others have reported).

The next step is the switch ($400). If it isn't the switch it's one of the computers ($1000). I'd rather it be the switch, of course. I'm trying to replace the less expensive stuff first. Since electrical parts are non-returnable, I end up with a stack of unusable new parts (anyone need a brand-new K40 relay?).

What I need to learn, then, is how to R&R the ignition switch.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Here, hopefully this will be what you need. If you want a bigger copy PM me an email address and I will email a pdf of the page.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

PM sent. Thank you.

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

The manuals/instructions are worse than wrong, they're not even for the same type of ignition switch! This is not to heap any blame at all on those who have been so kind as to offer their support -- the dealer doesn't list the right part either!

Once I had the ignition "module" (lock cylinder plus switch package) out of the car, I figured out how to remove the switch assembly. I'll post pictures and a DIY later, when my hands are cleaner. The switch carries the Mercedes part # 210 545 06 04. It is a purely mechanical switch -- pins and contacts -- no electronics.

However, both the EPC and Smothers European show part number 210 545 03 08, which is an electronic switch (has a little pc board on it) and costs $500. This may be because my car is a very early '96 model (low VIN and mfg date 10/95).

Now that I have the switch out, I can test it to see if some of the contacts in switch position 2 are flakey. If so, I may be able to clean them and restore the swich to normal operation. If not, I'll replace the switch. maybe it won't be as expensive as the electronic version.

Note: This version of the switch takes the old-style metal key. The electronic key was introduced later (1997?).

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Problem was that car would not crank. The dash lights and accessories worked. Repeated attempts eventually succeeded but I didn't want my wife to get stranded (her car).

A very slow crank suggests a weak battery or a poor connection from battery to starter to ground. Be sure to check the ground strap from engine to chassis. Could be a bad starter (worn brushes) especially if original at that milage.

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

I have a 96 E300 that used to have a very slow crank....it turned out it was the starter motor. I had previously replaced the battery as well, but that didn't speed it up....after I installed the new starter the difference is like night and day:-)

BTW, I followed the instructions provided Jeremy to replace my ignition switch & it went flawlessly!!!...thanks again very much!!

Also, I wanted to mention that instead of buying the official tool to remove the ignition switch bezel, I went to Lowes hardware plumbing department and purchased a straight metal sink drain tube...i think the size was either 1.25" or 1.5". It fit right over the bezel & I was able to unscrew it as well as replace it that way:-) If anyone show interest, I will publish a photo of the drain tube

Cheers,

Brian

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1987 560SL - 95K
1996 E300D - 183K
1997 E300D - 162K
1982 240D - 160K

Thank you very much Jeremy 5848 Tallguy and Dusty88 you have hopefully saved me loads of money, I have been having intermittent problems with my wipers radio cigarette lighter heated seats ETC in the last couple of months they would all stop working and then for no reason at all they would start again and come to the conclusion that the ignition switch was faulty having checked k40 relay unit.
I ask Mercedes for a price on a new switch plus fitting they came up with a price of around £350.00 pounds I thought if its not the switch it would have been a waste of money so I took the plunge and said to my self I’ll have a go myself.
So I proceeded to remove the switch I had a small emergency key (see picture) so I could slide it thought the key hole easy, striped the switch down looked at the contacts they looked pretty good apart from the fact the gap looked a little wide on a couple I cleaned them and adjusted closed them up little
Then put it back together,
I then went to fit it but it would not go in short by an 1/8 in funny thought must have put it back to gather wrong took it apart again and then the penny dropped HO NO THE BOLT HAS BIT ME
And slammed shut!
So I thought lets see if the switch works connected it up and it started the car thank god for that I said to myself, had me tea 6pm went out cleared up,
Then sat down with the computer and read up again had a bad nights sleep, up at 7am to see if the Tallguys hole in unit works.
Made a drill extension and a drill template so I could drill the hole thought the key hole I also fitted a collet on the drill so it would not go in to far and damage anything inside (see picture) drilled the hole had a cup of tea! Now for the easy bit looking thought the key hole ( no dolly bird there ) I got a thin screw driver and poked around in the hole saw the spring, (good job I put the collet on the drill) after poking around I found the pin thing in the top left hand corner you have to kinder poke it in hard and lever it over towards the steering column and at the same time turn the round bit after a few attempts I was beginning
To panic then it went click easy really said he with sweat running down my brow. Popped the switch in put the big car key in turned NOTHING HO MY GOD then I connected the battery and gave it another go that engine was sweet music to my ears, had a bomb down the road everything is working fine at the moment. I will have to wait and see if the fault returns will keep you posted thank you all for this posting (This switch No 2105450604 fits all cars in the list below) PS when I started this fix the SRS light would not come on now it comes on every time I start the the car now.

http://www.euromotives.com/i/ebay/ap/1307147833.gif

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Congratulations -- a clever fix. Thank God for tea and let's all dance the Bristol Stomp.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Hi, all you Mercedes owners, My car is still going fine the fault has not raised its ugly head yet and it was pretty hot today so it looks like the switch was the problem, So anyone out there clean the switch first before Buying a new one.(SRS light still coming on) I will start slowing down on the Bristol Stomp soon!

For those too young to remember The Bristol Stomp, our sympathy and this link to YouTube.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

I remember that song my old stomping ground was Warrington Nr Manchester, Them were the days when you could fix anything on car with a hammer!5896.pdf 6243.pdfThis may help someone

I just thought I would let you know that I now have another intermittent fault on the ignition not the wipers etc this time.
When I turn the ignition on some times I get nothing at all turn it off on then on again every thing fires up you drive around for a couple of days fine then it rears its ugly head again switch off and on again sometime nothing then all of a sudden it fires up
Will take the switch out again and give it another clean, bye the way did you completly strip the switch down like removing the white cam inside the switch.
In the mean time the rear left window has dropped just finished fixing it with a 99p part a days work putting it right good job i don,t have to go to work, haven,t got time for that!

It’s a 1996 E320 WDB2100055 2A 195110,
part on the switch is 2105450604 and has only 8 pins and a green cover plate,
Finding it difficult to find one plenty of used ones,
So your saying that the 210 460 02 97 switch will fit

For those that may be interested this is the way I fitted the springs into the white plastic unit,
I put the springs into the white unit first then I pushed the metal Part in with the small vice.
See photos

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