While at the dyno this morning (more on those results in a different thread), after the second pull the dyno operator mentioned a light ticking noise from the engine. It was pretty faint so I said "nah, that's ok" and we did a third pull. After this pull, the noise was much worse - still couldn't tell what it was, but the engine was running ok. Upon backing it out of the shop, the power assist for the brakes went dead, then when I parked it the engine wouldn't shut off. D'oh... obvious vac pump failure. So I towed it home, pushed it into the garage (with some help from some sympathetic neighbors), and tore things apart for a look-see. Check out the photos below. OUCH!

I thought I had replaced this vac pump sometime during my ownership of the car, but after reviewing my records, it appears I had not... because it was replaced by the previous owner 2 years before I bought the car. Actually, the pump was first replaced in 1993 @ 117kmi, and replaced again in 1995 at 152kmi (not sure why the second pump failed in such a short period of time). I purchased the car in 1997 with 187kmi on the clock and a 2-year old Pierburg pump. Well, a mere 141kmi later, the pump kerploded magnificently. I'll have to drain the oil pan and pull the side sump to (hopefully) fish out the rest of the debris... there's a big chunk o' pump missing, that is nowhere to be found right now.

Worse yet... I had recently replaced the timing device with a shiny new one from the dealer ($300 list price) when my timing cover failed 3 years ago. I don't think I'll be able to re-use it. There goes another $250+ out the window. *sigh*

Anyway... has anyone seen a pump failure like this before? The bearing is fully intact, and the pump was not leaking one drop of oil externally. There was no signs of impending failure, just BOOM rattle rattle tinkle ping poof.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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Wow! I am so glad you guys "strongly suggested" that I replace my original pump. Next weekend.

So I guess there is more to worry about than just the ball bearings coming out.

I have new squeak in the last week, but can't seem to locate a source I guess I'll listen to the vacuum pump in the morning.

Good luck find all the pieces.

Chris

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Makes you wonder if just putting an electric vacuum pump on these cars is more safe/reliable....just slap a cover/gasket over the pump's former location, and upgrade the alternator....slap in an electric pump, and go. It almost seems worth it!

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Sure is tempting, that's for sure. I wonder what's available in the aftermarket that would supply an appropriate amount of vacuum.

Dave, is plunger seized? Can you compare the force required to compress the plunger in the two pumps in front of you?

Looks like the pivot shaft is retained by a couple of circlips. I'm surpised they used circlips in a situation where one part can move relative to the other.

Did the dam gasket catch anything?

GM 6.5 IDIs have a belt driven vacuum pump. Maybe one can be grafted inplace of a wagon tandem pump for non-SLS applications.

Sixto
87 300D

My bad - GM 6.5 IDIs use hydraulic brake assist. The vacuum pump is only for accessories.

Sixto
87 300D

My previous ride was a '94 Volvo 850 Turbo. They had a pretty stout vacuum pump under the battery tray. Ran the booster for the brakes, cruise, etc. Cheap at a salvage yard.

HTH,
Shane

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Shane Lowrance
1991 350SDL parting out.

1884 300TD 173K miles. Champagne w/ Palomino interior and third row seating.

North Texas.

Belt driven or electric?

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles

Little electric jobber. Slightly larger than a Coke can.

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Shane Lowrance
1991 350SDL parting out.

1884 300TD 173K miles. Champagne w/ Palomino interior and third row seating.

North Texas.

Electric pump for an EV conversion should do the trick.

Sixto
87 300D

Years ago I had a '73 220D with a VP that experienced a very similar failure mode--everything just sorta lost interest in remaining intact.

I think I'd pull the side cover off the pan, and then run kerosene down that chain vault until all the shavings washed out. Bummer dude. Now I have another paranoia vector

Thats what I was thinking, then the worst that can happen if it fails is a loss of vacuum and maybe a blown fuse.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Please elongate the short hand "EV", Thanks!
(I don't know what you're referring to)

GSXR,

Scary,Scary.Scary. How many RPMs was the engine subjected to?

My 100K miles,"replace" list just grew.
Chains,Sprockets,Tensioner,Timer,VP.

I wonder if Pierburg is saving money on castings? (or if it was the C-clip?)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Indicated max RPM on the tach, and dyno sheet, was approx 5400rpm. That's within factory specs (on the high side, but still within spec). The Crazy Finns have pushed these engines past 5500 without pump failures, so I don't think it was necessarily the RPM at fault. But if my pump was on the way out (hairline fracture in the casting?), the high RPM likely hastened its demise.