EV = electric vehicle

http://www.evsource.com/tls_braking_system.php

http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/pbrakes.php

Sixto
87 300D

My bad - GM 6.5 IDIs use hydraulic brake assist. The vacuum pump is only for accessories.

Sixto
87 300D

My previous ride was a '94 Volvo 850 Turbo. They had a pretty stout vacuum pump under the battery tray. Ran the booster for the brakes, cruise, etc. Cheap at a salvage yard.

HTH,
Shane

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Shane Lowrance
1991 350SDL parting out.

1884 300TD 173K miles. Champagne w/ Palomino interior and third row seating.

North Texas.

The power peak onthe dyno graph is around 4600rpm, and the engine is still making decent power past 5000, to about 5200. It does drop off between 5200-5400 though. My car upshifts at 4800-4900 for each shift, as do most W124 diesels. It doesn't often see those RPMs of course, typical driving keeps them in the 2k-3k range.

The 617 pump is likely more robust, but it's also triple the size... no room for that on the front of a 603 in a tight engine compartment. The 617 pumps are rebuildable, the 60x pumps are disposable. I'm thinking that proactive replacement at 150k may be a good idea. The 60x pumps seem to fail in the 150-200kmi range, if not sooner.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

The 60x engines have a 1-piece timer with no other bushing, it just rides on the shaft of the IP. My timer was replaced 40kmi ago and until the little incident yesterday, was in perfect condition.

I'll post more photos as I get things taken apart...

Belt driven or electric?

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles

If I ever get a 60X I think I will try out an electric vac pump!

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Dave: When my pump failed with the bearing disintegration, I removed the oil pan extension and picked out all the parts, cleaned out the pan, and with epoxy attached two ceramic magnets to the bottom of the pan near the oil pump.
I have since checked it and have not found any more metal, but I have left the magnets there as a precaution(one ball bearing was never found).
If you wanted to flush, I would suggest a cheap oil.
Re: Timing device flange damage, you might be able to find a timing device at a wreckers. If they are not damaged there is no reason not to use one.
On the older versions the flange can also be removed.
Good Luck.
DougQ 87 300TDT

Same here, either that or I'll be sure to have lots of $$$ so I can afford pumps/engines should the need arise!

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Wow big failure!

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I had a parts car engine on the stand that had been running fine and pulled the VP to check it. Took the plate in front off and found the top of the piston broken, and about 2.5 mms of lateral play in the timing device. The engine block "bulkhead" (?) in back of the TD was deeply scared where the TD had been slamming into it due to excessive ware on the intermediate shaft bushing.
I'm pretty sure the VP failed on mine due to that bushing wearing out and allowing all that lateral motion.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Steve, sounds like a bad timing device (bearing inside the timer) failed, which then allowed the cam to float around, which eventually took out your pump - right?

Dave
The timing device itself was fine, it just slides on the intermediate shaft and didnt show any ware.

The intermediate shaft bushing is the "replacement" part. It has four "diagonal notches" on the inside of its rim so one can see at a glance how much its warn. Look in the "Performance' catalog or some other "exploded' pic for "intermediate shaft bushing". Its no fun to get to due to keeping the timing chain away from the TD sprocket. Someone sent a pic of the special MB tool too do that. Maybe something could be made at home.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

That is a good plan but the metal that failed on GSXR's VP is the casting which is mostly zinc potmetal and a magnet won't work.

Dave, when I worked at an INDY shop we saw a SDL that the engine was toast because the owner would not listen to recommendations to replace the VP. At the time I was working on my second 603 and I was replacing the VP on it because I knew nothing of the history on that engine (it was available to me thanks to a mechanics lien for a cracked cyl head). I told the owner how bad these were, he said he knew that already.
The shop owner kept telling the SDL owner how important it was to replace that pump, somewhat based on my rantings I think, but the owner said was getting rid of the car soon.
just a few months later that same car was towed in with the engine locked up. The owner had given the car to his daughter for a wedding gift and she or her new husband drove it somewhere (on honeymoon I think!) and it took a dump. The failure was due to the same support pieces breaking as did yours, I believe I have a picture of it somewhere. It however was an ugly failure, the pieces locked the timing chain and it blew a rod out the side of the block.
I stripped that engine and wound up selling the turbo to Brian Carlton when his was consuming a quart of oil every 10 or 20 miles (remember that, on its first journey home? he had to leave it at some shop somewhere along the eastern seaboard because it was burngin so much oil thru the turbo seals!)

I think its just a crap shoot w/ these things, some vac pumps failed really early in the days when the 603's were still "new." I saw a 603 that lost one in 1990 and remarked that the plastic linkage on the IP rack was just brilliant, how much $$ did MB save by doing that? I also think I said I'd never own one of the fool things based on the vac pump failure but now I own two '87 300D turbos and I wouldn't think of getting rid of either one I like them so much.

I do listen to my cars carefully though. I heard a ticking noise one time when leaving a parking space and immediately noted it varied with wheel speed so I pulled over and did a walk around and saw a razor blade stuck in the tread of a front tire, the kind of blade that inserts into a metal handle with two points where it tapers down. It did not go too deep to ruin the tire but I'm sure if I didn't take quick action it would have embedded itself further and eventually cut thru the steel belt.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Steve, I think I know what you mean. Mercedes redesigned the timer, and no longer sells the individual parts. The timer I have is the new style, shown on the left side of the photos below. I believe the bushing you're referring to is visible on the rear of the old timer on the right.

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