OM603: Vacuum pump explosion, bearing intact! Injection Pump Timing device wrecked - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chris W. · #**106** 05-21-2009, 10:46 AM

The timing device looks exactly like GSXR's photos, presumably the drive operating mechanism/method is the same, although the timing device part numbers are probably different for a 606. The vacuum pump appears to be identical to those in this thread.

Rgds,
Chris W.

gsxr · #**107** 05-21-2009, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by auspumpen

Please post pics. I was under the impression that all 606 engines used a different direct-drive vacuum pump and IP timer. But, maybe these were only used on later iterations of the engine.

The vac pump change didn't occur until 1996/1997 based on engine number, this was on the 606.912 engine for the 210.120 chassis (96-97 E300).

The 1995 E300 (124.131 chassis) with 606.910 engine still used the old style pump - unfortunatley.

gsxr · #**108** 05-21-2009, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris W.

I'm reviving this thread as I have just experienced vacuum pump self destruction which has chewed up my timing device, on a 606, '95 E300D. Let this be a lesson to others, if funky stuff starts happening with your vacuum system, suspect the pump...

My question is on the job to replace the timing device. I see in this thread that the bolt is apparently reverse thread, that is good to know! But is this a job for a reasonably competent DIYer? Once the bolt is removed, what is the next step? From the photos in the thread the chain needs to be secured, the shaft is splined, is it just a matter of securing the chain, taking the bolt off, sliding the timing device forward to remove, and replacing? It would seem that the chain tension might be a problem. I'm sure this must be more difficult.

I need to decide whether to flatbed to my indy or tackle this myself.

Rgds and tia,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 289K and holding

Chris,

Sorry to hear about your predicament. I'd say this is an advanced DIY project. A few special tools are needed, nothing expensive, but you'd want to plan on the job taking a week or two... pretty likely you'll run into some problem or another and have to wait a few days for parts, etc. The procedure for the 606 engine is here. However that procedure is pretty cryptic... the 603 procedure is much more detailed (and should be very, very similar)... click here to read that one.

You need to pull the valve cover off, unscrew chain tensioner, mark & remove the cam sprocket, allow the chain to pull into the cavity, pull the dowel pin out of the cover so the chain can unhook from the timer sprocket, and wiggle it out of there. And of course you'll have to take off the fan clutch, serp belt, etc to access the pump. Don't forget to clean out the oil pan... since your 606 doesn't have the side-access sump like the 602/603, this will be a real challenge. All I can think of is pulling the level sensor out, and using a magnet on the end of a flexible stalk to try and pull pieces out. Even then, there will be non-magnetic item which could be left behind. When it's done, I'd put in some cheap dino oil and run that for a couple hundred miles as a "rinse", then change it again with your normal oil.

In the meantime, call your indy & ask for a quote... I can already tell you the vac pump (000-230-31-65) is $300-$325, and the timing device (605-070-06-45) is about $300 wholesale. Plus misc parts, gaskets, seals, & fluid. Then add about 8-10 hours labor on top of that. Wouldn't surprise me if the estimate was on the wrong side of $1500...

Chris W. · #**109** 05-21-2009, 01:09 PM

Thanks Dave, exactly the info I was looking for. I have the vac pump and gasket already. Yesterday was a bummer - with fingers crossed I was happy as I pulled the old vac pump with surprisingly little trouble, I did not even have to take the fan or fan clutch off, but when I saw the timing device I was bummed.

I will call my indy now - while I think I could do this I don't have the time and I need the car back asap.

Rgds,
Chris W.

dquance · #**110** 05-21-2009, 06:32 PM

Chris: I have done this on my 603 engine, and I consider myself a competent DIYer. I have no idea how different a 606 may be.

You should acquire a manual for this job, would help a lot, and if you plan to keep the car for a while, will save you a lot of money.
I may have some notes on my repair if you decide to do it yourself.

Doug Q

ashedd · #**111** 05-21-2009, 08:37 PM

Ok I just ran into this thread. Now I am scared poopless about my pump failing in the 603.

Let me know if this plan of action is a good/bad idea.

My 87 300D has about 160k indicated but the odometer does not work. I have no history on the car. I think I should pull the vac pump and look for a date code. I should also inspect it the best I can. I want to start the car without the pump installed to see if a "lifter" noise goes away.

As long as the pump is not original AND it looks ok I will reinstall it. I understand a new pump is about $300 so I will stash some money away for a new one soon.

sound good?

compress ignite · #**112** 05-21-2009, 11:40 PM

The mess (OIL) it makes WILL BE the least of your problems !

dquance · #**113** 05-22-2009, 02:15 AM

Ashedd: Your plan seems feasible, however you really want to err on the side of caution.
Some experts suggest replacing the pump at 100,000 to 150,000 miles.
On your ticking if you are using conventional oil it is probably from the cam followers.
Switch to Mobil 1 synthetic and it will likely go away.
My 87 300tdt had that issue and Mobil 1 did the trick.
Good luck.
Doug Q

sasquatchgeoff · #**114** 05-22-2009, 03:06 AM

I pulled my VP off my 602.911 and it has 247K. I guess I have been lucky. It is is the original open-ball bearing style. I am in the process of rebuilding the top end and have decided to dig deep for funds to replace as a result of numerous threads on this forum including this one. Probably should have factored in VP R&R from the beginning since its a "while you're in there" item.

The Pierburg at AllParts Express has the dam(n) style gasket pictured. I am hoping to just slap the new one on where the old one was.

gsxr · #**115** 05-22-2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

Ok I just ran into this thread. Now I am scared poopless about my pump failing in the 603.

No need to be that worried, you just need to educate yourself about the pump on your car now, and the potential effects of failure (i.e., if it does fail, DO NOT drive the car home - don't re-start the engine until it's fixed).

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

My 87 300D has about 160k indicated but the odometer does not work. I have no history on the car. I think I should pull the vac pump and look for a date code. I should also inspect it the best I can.

No need to pull the pump to look at the date code. The first inspection is for the four Torx-head screws on the pump cover. If there are no screws, the pump is original, and should be replaced as soon as you can afford it. If there are Torx-head screws, that's better - indicates the pump was replaced at some point. Then you look for the date code, which is on the front / bottom of the pump, but may take some effort to clean up & see. You may have to pull the fan, clutch, and serpentine off to clearly see the date code. BTW, you can get your odo fixed for ~$125 or so from a VDO shop... or, just swap in a different speedo from a later W124 with the same 2.65 gears. It's not hard to adjust the mileage on the new odo to match the old (or, estimate what you think is actually on the car).

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

I want to start the car without the pump installed to see if a "lifter" noise goes away.

As mentioned above, it's probably a lifter, not the pump. Try Mobil-1 (15W-50 or 5W-40 only) and see if that cures the lifter noise. It can take a couple thousand miles sometimes. If not, you probably have a collapsed lifter or two... they're only about $20 each, but are a PITA to replace. I changed all of 'em on my '87 and '93 and they have been silent ever since.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

As long as the pump is not original AND it looks ok I will reinstall it. I understand a new pump is about $300 so I will stash some money away for a new one soon.

The important part is if the pump has the open-cage bearings or not. Some early pumps with the 4 screws have the open bearings, I think from the early 90's. I believe my pump with the good, "closed" bearing was dated 1995, so anything newer than that is probably OK. But I don't know the year (or date code) in the early 90's when they changed to the improved style bearing. It's not likely you'll run into this scenario, most likely your pump is either original, or post-1995....

ashedd · #**116** 05-22-2009, 04:02 PM

thanks everyone, I will take a look see tomorrow. After my 300sd rear brake job

volosong · #**117** 06-01-2009, 12:17 PM

Is vacuum pump failure something to be concerned about on the W201 OM601 engines?

gsxr · #**118** 06-01-2009, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by volosong

Is vacuum pump failure something to be concerned about on the W201 OM601 engines?

Yes. All 60x engines up to approx 1996/97 need to be concerned about this.

volosong · #**119** 06-01-2009, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Yes. All 60x engines up to approx 1996/97 need to be concerned about this.

Uugh! Thanks for the warning. Will check tonight to see if I have torx screws.

signut · #**120** 01-13-2010, 02:41 PM

Looks like one more item to worry about: I am guessing that any 603.97 series motor that has anything more than 100K on it should probably have the pump replaced as a matter of maintenance . If they suddenly fail, looks like big money and time to repair . So in interest of preventing a costly failure, I am looking at replacing the pump on my soon to be here 603.97 3.5 litre. Question: are all of the newer pumps from MB going to be an updated, not-so-prone -to failure item ? Is there any source for an OEM pump to save some money ? Any info appreciated .