![]() |
|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Use a button or momentary toggle switch.
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
One of my cars came with a pull cable (like a choke cable) that was installed under the dash, and ran to the STOP lever area. A small hole had been drilled in the stop lever, and the cable run through the hole and fastened.
When you needed to stop the car, you pulled the cable handle and remotely pulled the STOP lever. It worked fine. However, the next owner got the vacuum stop fixed and so I removed the cable. For something of a junker, you can go this route and save on the necessary vaccum parts. Isn't the vacuum stop mechanism the part on the injection pump where if you don't replace it properly, the engine goes to full revs and blows up? Sometimes a simple fix is the best value, in the context of the particular car involved and the economics of the situation. Ken 300D
__________________
-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
I bet it wouldn't blow up before you could vice grip the fuel line.
__________________
1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
I found an electric-triggered vacuum valve on ebay. Thanks for the help.
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
They still sell Generic Manual Choke Cables with a plastic Knob on them. Hooking it to the manual shutoff lever would not be difficult but you would need to make a bracket/frame to hold the outer portion of the cable to keep it from moving. And you need something on the inside to mount the Cable also.
A manual shutoff inside would be handy to have if other less mechanically inclined people drive your car. If you Vacuum Shutoff malfunctions they may not remember or be able to lift the hood, locate the Manual Shutoff and shut the engine off.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 08-29-2008 at 04:08 PM. |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Boy, what a tough crowd. Whether a person has the ingrained "anti-european" attitude or not, we all start out NOT knowing many things about these cars and their systems. Let' face it, German engineering is different - for better or for worse, and there is a learning curve. We all pretty much have to start at the bottom of that curve, so let's not be too hard on others who are just getting started - we were all there once too.
Lets not be too quick to pre-judge, because, as this thread illustrates, a lot of the time that premature judgement is based on our own pre-concieved notions that may or may not be correct...
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
I have the shifter knob from a peterbuilt w/a 16 speed tranny w/ 2 vac switches on it.
big trucks use air pressure for a lot of stuff. 1/2 of the switches on the dash are prolly for air. meaning a pneumatic toggle switch. you could prolly get one @ any truck shop. maybe a bad one(leaker) would work fine on vac vs. pressure. I have the shifter knob from a peterbuilt w/a 16 speed tranny w/ 2 air switches on it. looks cool, but dont mess w/ them switches while driving.
__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
The engine can run for quite some time with the fuel supply cut off.
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Stick with the original design and fix it when it breaks.
It's also fun to watch the expression on the face of my American gear head friends when I tell them I've fixed an engine oil leak at the ignition switch!
__________________
Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html Last edited by Cr from Texas; 08-29-2008 at 09:16 PM. Reason: typo |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
This has been debated and tested here before. It can't. Once the fuel line is clamped the pump can't suck any more fuel.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
I think he means, it'll start burning oil, and now you've got unmetered fuel coming in. Then it explodes.
__________________
1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
That is false. I HAVE done it and the engine will idle for at least 30 seconds with fuel flow to the lift pump completely blocked.
|
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'm a master auto-body mechanic, and I'm now training to be a machinist. Roy |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
30 seconds at idle equates to what at WOT, though?
Next time I replace my feed line, I'll have to check it out. Of course, there's always the phone book over the turbo intake method too.
__________________
1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|