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  #1  
Old 09-22-2008, 06:59 PM
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How Fast Should 300SDL be?

Mine's pretty slow.... Got the flex pipe replaced and made a little difference but how fast should it be?

New fuel filter, new air filter... What else causes sluggish acceleration?
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2008, 07:23 PM
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Time a few 0-60 runs and report back. You should be in the 10-12 second range.
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2008, 07:37 PM
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Check that all the small "vacuum" lines on the drivers side of the engine aren't plugged with soot. Mainly the one going from the intake to the lill valve unit.

-Jason
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000).

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1999 Jetta TDI. 310,000 miles.
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2008, 09:09 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
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Slow 300sdl

1984 300d turbo 147k
clean the rear intake plug to the alda, pressure test alda 10 psi with top of a hand vacuum pump use fuel press gage, replace fuel lift pump assembly $15o.00 or kit $40.00 plus s&h OR INSTALL A 12 VOLT ELECTIC FUEL PUMP KIT **************.COM $159.00
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2008, 09:35 PM
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10.5 seconds is very fast.
12 seconds is typical.
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:01 PM
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i'll time her 2maro
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2008, 12:32 AM
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0-60 Pretty Slow

29 Seconds and 33 Seconds....

Mechanic Said Turbo was working fine, and had no leaks...

What could be clogged i got the day off and are working on her 2maro
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2008, 12:35 AM
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A loss that significant sounds like fuel starvation. Change both fuel filters (the in-line filter and the spin-on cartridge) and report back.

EDIT: just saw that you already have a new fuel filter. Did you change both filters or just one? Make sure they're both clean.

Also, take an air compressor, take off the fuel return line to the tank, and blow some air backwards through that line to blow any grit or algae off the strainer in the bottom of the tank temporarily, just to experiment.
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"What could possibly go wrong?"

~Michael S.~ -
1986 M-B 300SDL, retired due to rust and electrical problems. Donated engine to:
1987 M-B 300SDL, odo dead. New project.
1982 M-B 240D, odo stopped at 308,000
1982 M-B 300SD, 175,000
1989 Dodge Ramcharger, 87,000 - 4wd, 318
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2008, 12:39 AM
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I did the one that is right near the engine itself... Wheres the other filter?

How do you do all this stuff to the tank, i have access to my fathers garage and all the tools in the world, but i am no mechanic.
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggspeed View Post
I did the one that is right near the engine itself... Wheres the other filter?

How do you do all this stuff to the tank, i have access to my fathers garage and all the tools in the world, but i am no mechanic.
"right near the engine" - which one? They're both pretty near the engine.

One of them is clear plastic, the other is metal like a gasoline engine's spin-on oil filter. The plastic one is in-line with the fuel supply line, which comes through the firewall on the injector pump side of the engine. The metal one is up in front of the power steering pump reservoir. You remove the bolt from the top of it, maybe unclamp a bracket to get it out of the way, and then replace that filter as well. Fill it with clean diesel or diesel purge stuff or whatever you want to use that will burn as fuel so that the re-priming process doesn't take as long.

Re-priming in your car consists of leaning on the starter for up to 60 seconds until she fires up and keeps running.

The return line goes right next to the supply line back through the firewall, both lines attach to metal pipe things coming up into the engine compartment with screw-type hose clamps. Just unclamp the one going back to the tank (the one with no filters in line with it) and blow down the piece that goes back through the firewall with compressed air to just experiment with clearing the tank strainer from the front, so to speak. It's a temporary cure if that is the problem.

Maybe take the fuel cap off the back before you blow air through from the front just so you don't pressurize things and create a fuel jet somewhere if your vents happen to be plugged .
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"What could possibly go wrong?"

~Michael S.~ -
1986 M-B 300SDL, retired due to rust and electrical problems. Donated engine to:
1987 M-B 300SDL, odo dead. New project.
1982 M-B 240D, odo stopped at 308,000
1982 M-B 300SD, 175,000
1989 Dodge Ramcharger, 87,000 - 4wd, 318
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  #11  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:35 AM
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I figured out what filter needs to be replaced its the straight filter, so just put air into the return fuel line... ok will try, what about clearing the build up will i need to remove the tank?
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggspeed View Post
what about clearing the build up will i need to remove the tank?
We need to know if there even IS any build up first. Generally you'll not have to take the tank out. There are products that kill plant life in the tanks (algae) and de-gunk things, breaking down the goo into a material that gets past the strainer and fills your filters up again. Before pouring this 'biocide' into the tank, stock up on half a dozen filter sets and carry them plus your tools with you at all times. This is all assuming we discover a blockage, it may be perfectly clean back there.

Worst case scenario, the strainer drops out the bottom of the tank and you'll have to catch the remaining fuel somehow.
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http://www.appstate.edu/~salleyms

"What could possibly go wrong?"

~Michael S.~ -
1986 M-B 300SDL, retired due to rust and electrical problems. Donated engine to:
1987 M-B 300SDL, odo dead. New project.
1982 M-B 240D, odo stopped at 308,000
1982 M-B 300SD, 175,000
1989 Dodge Ramcharger, 87,000 - 4wd, 318
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:43 AM
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Ok, i'll get back 2maro when i find out more info and can see what the next step is thanks a lot for your help
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