awesome, where was it?

I checked the DIY. - not there

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That can not be trusted on an old car ( some PO's are not all that careful..)... and I think the FSM says that exhaust seals will be all that is available for replacement.... and that was years ago...

I just recently did them, they are colored. But I agree about POs and their M.O.'s

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I used a cutting torch (acetylene and oxy) for a few seconds and bent them as directed in the archives of this site. Not good enough with a computer to direct anyone to that posting - but if I can dig it up, anyone can. Note that the orientation of the jaws of the wrenches are opposite. It was still difficult for me to work around the injector lines.


Also, I found it a bit difficult to turn the engine with the power steering pump alone. But with a little pull on the belts plus a wrench on the power steering pump, it wasn't too difficult.

Thirdly, I found it easier to make a drawing on a sheet of paper and adjust the valves as the cam brought them up, rather than working front to back. Just gotta make notes and keep distractions to a minimum

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John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln

I use a starter switch to bump the engine and I use something to hold the manual off lever down so no problem.
If you want to make the wrenches these are the dementions
Home made Valve adjustment wrench info

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1983 300SD
200000miles

Comments on the Valve Adjusting wrenches. I have a set of the Hazet special wrenches with the long handles and also tried bending my own.
I tried bending the cold and ended up with 1 good and 1 broken wrench.
When I did my last valve adjustment I tried the short handled Homemade wrench along with a short handled Hazet wrench and compared them to the long handle Hazet wrenches.
The long handled Hazet wrenches were easier to use then the short handled Homemade/Hazet wrenchs with the exception of #5 where I found it handier to use 1 of the short handled wrenches due to the long handle ones hitting the fire wall.
It seems expensive to purchase the Hazet wrenches but I think they make the job easier and in the long run are worth the $ (or buy a set of the homemade long handled wrenches).
If you decide to get rid of you Hazet wrenches you will only loose $10-$15 dollars if you sell they used on Ebay and I have even seen them sell within a few dollars of the New wrench cost.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you use a bump starter on those screw terminals under the hood (without the key in the ignition) the engine shouldn't start.

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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

'81 300SD. My indy charged me $160 labor and $12.80 for gasket to adjust the valves. First time this was done in about 200,000 miles. Made a great difference in starting and idle.

The valve clearances should be quick checked every 15 thousand miles. This was mercedes recomendation. If the first time you recheck them at 15k and they have not changed it might be pretty safe to extend the checking interval somewhat.

The problem really errupts when you buy a used 616 or 617 and the previous owners did not realise the valves need checking periodically. Or have just kept driving the car for years doing basically no maintenance if the car still ran. Who in their right mind wants to shell out a couple of hundred for a simple valve adjustment today. You might be a little longer the first time you do it but much faster the second and subsequent times. It is not rocket science to do it either. One of the simpler mechanical items.

Use the savings to take your wife or girlfriend out to dinner. If that does not get her wondering what you have been up to nothing will.

If ever you aquire an earlier gas mercedes the adjustment interval is 10k. No worry about people ignoring it. The adjusters were not tight and they sometimes did creep. Ignore them for about twenty-thirty thousand miles and you will be removing the head.

Late 60s they tightened the interferance thread fit of the adjusters and lessened that problem. They never used locknuts. Since that time I have to remove a rocker arm to use a socket to adjust really stubborn ones. The good on the older gas cars is you could go through the valve adjusting sequence pretty fast. Maybe fifteen minutes if you paid attention. Just a guess as I never timed myself. It seemed very quick I remember.