Actually that's still my hope. In that mindset, I went to Home Depot on my scooter to get a bolt extractor. Also picked up a bolt, (wrong size), and stopped at Autozone for Woodruff keys. they only had SAE, but I bought them anyways. Noticed a split on the sidewall of my scooter, so I took of the wheel and applied a patch - it's the only thing that runs, so I need to keep it going.

Unfortunately, I can't fit a drill in the engine bay in order to start the hole for the bolt extractor. Will need to pick up a right angle drill attachment unless I pull the IP an get it from the back.

Since I'm still undecided on the IP, I'll work on cleaning the shaft. I need to clear the keyhole in any case, and will need to get the bushing off if I plan on pulling the IP.

Thanks!

Timing device removal
 

I am wondering if the bolt could have been broken and running like this for a while...with the vac pump spring pressure holding the timing device in place....until the bolt fell out and jammed between the vac pump housing & TD which cracked the vac pump...
Just a thought.....
Do you remember any bad sounds while it was running at some point...?
This could be a diesel CSI story....

I've been hearing a knocking sound for a couple months that may have been the vacuum pump; but I thought it was the injectors, which is one of the reasons I've been messing with the injection system. In all likelyhood, something was messed up, and my delivery valve screwup pushed it over the edge.


Thanks

Stuck again
 

I can't get the bushing off. It's almost there, but I don't want to hammer on it, so I'll pick up a real bearing puller tomorrow.

I'm beginning to think that the diagrams in the Haynes and FSN aren't applicable to my car. I guess I'll know once everything's torn apart. The real puzzler is that I don't see any slot for the woodruff keys where all of the metal around the shaft is, so I don't know where the metal came from. Here's a couple pics from the EPC. Does the camshaft from the IP go straight through the timing device?

Thanks

I am shocked that you are trying to reuse a very crucial element of engine performance after a severe failure.

Consider a used unit from someone who knows how to properly remove one in the parts forum. If no one will do it, I will.

Timing device removal
 

That first thumbnail shows IP innards.....that camshaft will not be coming out with this procedure......That is IP dissasembly which we won't be getting into...(Bosch Shop special tools)

The Aux shaft that runs through the timing device is what needs to come out.....the IP must be removed before you can pull the aux shaft from the timing device housing area...removes from the rear (IP side)
The IP cam stays in the IP.....
The aux shaft is what needs to be inspected for further damage and the bushings that support it.....and entire housing area/parts
Do an AUX shaft search on your cd fsm....should have the procedure...
The IP decisions can wait till this other portion of the autopsy is complete...

Thanks for the generous offer jt20, I'll probably take you up on it.

I'm not clear as to which part(s) you're referring to though. I plan on getting a new vacuum pump, but I'm not sure if I'll need anything else. Are you talking about a new IP?

Thanks again.

What about the IP timing assembly? An excessive force caused by foreign matter, maxxed-out the IP gears absorption elements, and sheared the keys inside.

Why is it safe to say that this unit suitable for repair?

Has the shaft been thoroughly inspected? What are we looking for?

i am concerned about the timing gear mechanism. Failure of the vacuum pump often breaks timing chains and ruins engines.

Personally, if I had a failure simialr to yours, where any damage occured to that mechanism, i would not trust it.

Didnt you have to use a punch to ge the shaft out?

Edit the above posts.

I missed Beagle's response about the hydrolock. That clarifies much of my concern.


You are a much better judge of what is damaged than I am at this point.

Timing device removal
 

I think the main effort here is to determine the extent of damage so possible solutions can be developed...I don't think anything has been declared fully safe to repair yet...still under inspection for all to review in this diesel forum....

The center of the timing device does have some metal from the woodruff key smeared in the center, but overall, it looks ok to me. I'll be the first to admit, however, that I don't really know what I'm talking about.

Unfortunately, I looked up the price of the timing device, and it's 660 dollars. You're absolutely right, that the prudent thing to do would be to replace it, so I'll see if I can get one from the pick and pull that looks ok. Being that I have the 85 Cali, I am concerned about compatibility of a timing device from other models.

I have looked at the other threads about such failures, and most of them occurred at speed. On one in particular, the cam bolt stripped and really messed things up. In my case, the device remained centered, but began freewheeling when the woodruff key broke. The timing chain seems fine, and when I put the camshaft gear at the TDC mark on the camshaft, the scale on the crankshaft read 2 degrees, which I believe is normal stretching for my miles.

Ideally, I'd like to replace everthing that's suspect, but practically, I just can't.

To be clear though, I'm not trying to make a case against anything you're saying, and I really appreciate your advice. I'm just explaining my logic, however faulty it is.

Thanks for the help.

I hope to have everything apart by tomorrow night, and will welcome everyone's input as to what must be replaced, what should be replaced, and what can be retained with minimal risk.

Thanks everyone!

The damage to your timer and intermediate shaft is collateral and you really must identify the root cause of the problem before you start reassembling anything if you are to avoid going back to square one! There are only 3 reasons that would cause the timer woodruff key to shear – and it is designed to do so in such circumstances.

1) Seizure of the intermediate shaft bearings.
2) Seizure or jamming of internal components of the Fuel Pump.
3) An hydraulic lock in the high pressure circuit.

Let’s go back to the beginning:
Can you confirm that you put both the D-valve body AND the valve upside down? (ie with it’s head facing down) If so I’m sure you can see from the diagram below what has happened. The element metering piston has jammed against the D-valve head locking the pump camshaft. When the key sheared the timer turned on the shaft tightening the bolt to the point where its head broke off. In this case it would be a miracle if the #1 element is not bent or broken.
http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s...umpelem3-1.jpg
Realistically you must remove the pump for inspection and likewise take out the inter-shaft to clean up the damaged diameters. Pump R&R is very straightforward though the rear bolt is a PITA. If you can find a good used replacememt shaft - do so. It is possible that the inner woodruff key on the bearing sleeve has also sheared. The sleeve keyway can be seen on your pic at 3 'o clock. If it is in line with the outer keyway you should be OK.

Parts that MUST be bought from MB are the woodruff keys and a new bolt.

I'm afraid that's EXACTLY what I did. :( I didn't see any obvious damage when I corrected it, but there may be a fine crack that I couldn't see. I'll try to get a DV at the pick and pull, but setting the timing will be kind of hit and miss.

Thanks for the excellent explaination and advice Beagle.