Mixed success
 

I got a vacuum pump, shaft bolt, washer, woodruff key and segment plate, but I still need a intermediate shaft and bushing. The car I was pulling parts from was an 83 SD. Things were going great until I tried pulling the lower chain rail pin. It wouldn't come out, and my puller bolt broke off in the pin.:mad:

Ended up dissasembling the timing device in place, and got the segment plate which contains the bore, so I'm good to go on that. I don't know how I'm going to get the rest of the timing device out, which I need to do to get the bushing. Theoretically, I can pull the shaft through the back of the housing, but I never got around to pulling the IP, and at the time I wasn't sure if the shaft was correct.

I took the VIN from an 83 SD on Ebay and put it in EPC/StarTek, and jt20 is correct, all of the relevent parts are the same! I was worried I'd need to find an 85 Cali, which arent too plentiful.

Will probably go back tomorrow (if the neighbor loans me his car again) and pull the IP. Does anyone have a suggestion about the removing the timing device with the lower chain rail pin still in place? I'm thinking about taking a nail to one of the timing chain links, but I don't know if that will work.

Also, I stripped the nut I was using on my puller, and was looking all over the yard for a nut with the same threads. Offhand, does anyone know where on the car I can find a long bolt and a nut with the same threads as on the chain rail pins?

Thanks a lot.

Theo

Thanks jt20. I took a look, and that's great news! I also confirmed the part numbers with the EPC.

this is going sound crazy, but..

as long as you loosen the IP from the block and remove the delicate stuff that might get damaged:

Bring a sledge hammer and break off that whole section of casting from the block. Bring it home and have it at your diposal to disassemble with your tools all right there. Dont feel bad either, no one ever salvages part engines for rebuilds.

I am going to get alot of flack for that one, but i have seen a few of these blocks crack, including my own, in accidents with decent collisions.

That space is tight and a PIA to work in without all your tools in a junkyard --- break it off and take it home unless you think something will get damaged.

again, this might not work and you may have to fully remove the IP from the block.

ok that was a little impulsive. I guess if you are going to go through the trouble of removing the IP, then getting the rest of the stuff shouldn't be an issue.. right?

please disregard that previous post. woah.

A long cold chisel would be a useful addition to the toolbox if you take this route.

Take along a bolt cutter and cut the chain. Take the bronze front shaft bearing too if it looks better than yours. You are not out of the woods yet with your own fuel pump so wrap that one up and leave it in the car - you just might need it ;).

Removed 1 and 2 in order to have a point of reference. They looked identical (but offset by 72 degrees) through the entire rotation.

Here's the #1 plunger position throughout the cycle (by degrees):

0-Top
72-Middle
144-Bottom
216-Bottom
288-Middle - note below
360-Top

The return to middle from bottom is key, because without any pressure, the plunger goes a little past it's position due to centrifigual force, and gravity drops it back into place. If there were any binding, that wouldn't happen. Just a slight bounce, but very reassuring if you're looking for freedom of movement.

Sacrificed 2 crush washers for the test, but it was well worth it.

Thanks Yellit, and please thank your friend at Bosch for me.

Hmmm, I wonder if I put those delivery valves back in right............:P

Ip
 

I may have missed trying to convey what he was saying.....
Need to observe the plunger rotation from the delivery valve top view....(looking down into the barrel)

Do this while moving the IP lever .....

Do this at all of the mentioned cam rotation angles you posted...

Throttle arm of IP slightly indexes (rotates) all the plungers at the same time (this determines fuel delivery amount by rotating plungers to change helix unloading position to spill port.....)

In addition to the vertical strokes of the plungers they are rotated together less than 90* max to control how much fuel they push by unloading with this groove(helix)....
I am not too good at explaining this.....simple once you see it on a loose fuel element.....

Rotation. What rotation?

I was looking right at the plungers, and they just moved up and down. They didn't rotate at all.:confused:

Am I screwed?

Ok, I took a look at this doc, from GSXR's website I believe.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/Bosch/PreTech_4.3_MW-Pump.pdf

Now I understand. The plungers rotate as throttle is applied. I spaced on what the rack was.

I never messed with the throttle while the valve holders were off.:(

Let's try this again.

Took off 1 and 2 again.

In each cam position listed in the earlier post, the plungers rotated about about 15-20 degrees, with all of the rotation being between idle and half throttle. From half throttle to floored, there was no further rotation. :confused:

I don't know if that's good or bad, but now I'm worried. :(

IP plunger rotation
 

Hmmm....Good question)......I was moving my rack with the vac valve off to get full plunger rotation....(pushing and pulling the rack directly through the Vac cutoff mounting hole)...

I will have to check with the IP guy again to see if throttle arm will give full range since the govenor linkage is involved...

Some other forum folks may know more about this....I have run out of ammo in this area....

IP...Timing Device....
 

On a lighter note...

You know the forum is working to its max resolve capacity.....

When precision Ip clearances...oilstone lapped surfaces...sledgehammers.... bolt-cutters and large chisels are all metioned within a few posts during the repair solution discussion..!

If you lay those copper crush washers on a REALLY flat surface.. and get yourself a sledgeha.... oh never mind.

That sounds more or less right though rotation should be closer to 70°. There is no direct connection between the throttle lever and the rack. Movement is transmitted thro a series of flywieghts, bellcranks,springs and levers in the governor mechanism. The governor has overriding control over the rack. In “No load” from idle to 1800rpm it is the governor, not your foot, rapidly moving the rack to maintain a constant rpm – and automatically cuts fuel at 5400rpm regardless of the position of the accelerator.

The rack has a very light return spring. The plungers will rotate up to about half throttle and then you should encounter a stronger spring (ie the idle speed leaf spring) and there will be no further rotation of plungers to the full load stop as the governor mechanism is in “start” mode.

To test free movement of the rack:

Lay the pump on its side with the lever on idle stop.
1) Move the lever clockwise until you feel it just touch the stronger spring.
2) Release it and the rack spring should return the lever to touch the idle stop.
3) Repeat in other cam positions.

In any case to be on the safe side when you start for the first time have yourself well prepared to deal with a runaway.