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  #181  
Old 07-26-2011, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
The line on the other side of the center vent pod goes to the defroster pod.... it has 2 vacuum ports, one to close it and one to open it.

Are you sure the White line is even getting vacuum from the servo?
It's not, and from the posts above I was told it was just a vent line.

It's an aluminum bodied servo too, and it works. If it's a vac issue within the servo I might just pounce on the Unwired Tools servo and be done with it....

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  #182  
Old 07-26-2011, 01:30 AM
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There are 2 white vacuum lines. One is a vent! The other white line goes to the center vents and then goes to the CLOSED part of the defroster pod.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
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1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

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1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #183  
Old 07-26-2011, 09:44 AM
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^ gotcha. That line does not get vacuum at all. Interesting that the defrost pod works perfectly but the center vent does not...
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  #184  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
There are 2 white vacuum lines. One is a vent! The other white line goes to the center vents and then goes to the CLOSED part of the defroster pod.
Okay I made more progress today. I replaced a vacuum connector and got the pod on the firewall to work! However the line going to the center vent still is not getting vacuum. I think somewhere along the line from the servo to the vac pod it's losing vacuum. I'm going to replace the whole line and see if that works.
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  #185  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:37 PM
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That's good news! I finally got my vacuum system sorted and when I get my compressor working I'm either going with an aluminum servo or the UT kit. Both seem to have pros and cons...
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  #186  
Old 07-27-2011, 09:31 AM
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Post Leaky Plastic Tubes

Look underneath the battery tray first , that's where I always find cracks in the plastic vacuum tubes , caused by dripping of battery acid .

You'll need to remove the batery tray to properly diagnose this but it's a simple job to do and your tray prolly needs de - rusting & re - painting ahyway .
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  #187  
Old 08-12-2011, 07:38 PM
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I finally FINALLY got the AC working properly today!! With R12 no less!!!

Here are my pressures at idle, do these seem correct?



50 Low and 230 High it seems, though the low side fluctuates between 40 and 50.

Still I'm getting 40* out the vents while moving, and about 48 when sitting still. Norm sure doesn't like having the bigger wheels and the compressor on though, I think I could run faster.

Still I'm happy, now to get all the vac pods working correctly.
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  #188  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:37 PM
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How hot was it outside?

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  #189  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:54 PM
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95*, and according to the weather channel "feels like 101"
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  #190  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:58 PM
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Does it get cold fast? or does it take a while to make 40 degrees out the vents?
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #191  
Old 08-12-2011, 10:02 PM
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To my eye those pressures are a bit high, but I'm sure vstech will say otherwise.
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  #192  
Old 08-12-2011, 11:38 PM
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awesome, congrats Colin!
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  #193  
Old 08-12-2011, 11:57 PM
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Want to fix my wagon now?
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  #194  
Old 08-13-2011, 12:16 AM
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Very good news! Keep plugging at the vacuum lines and it'll fall into place.

I printed out some vacuum schematics and colored in each "leg" of the circuits as I tested them. It helped me keep track of which lines I had checked. I had a couple of loose check valves and a bad fresh air element. Mine worked fine with both of the fresh air element lines plugged.

It helped me to separate the lines so I could see what was going on:



It also helped to use a little vacuum connector on the vac pump to check circuits:



I also found a leak in the servo vacuum switch which was screwing up my center vent flappage:



The Medusa like hoses were leaking so I replaced them...

Maybe this will help a little.
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  #195  
Old 08-13-2011, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
Does it get cold fast? or does it take a while to make 40 degrees out the vents?
I've only done one real "cool down" session so far. It took about 5 minutes to get it down to 40. While driving it it cooled down quicker, obviously, and held it's temperature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
To my eye those pressures are a bit high, but I'm sure vstech will say otherwise.
I thought so too, but it is 2.6 pounds of R12 in there... Also it was hot, which I think has something to do with it. I'll recheck pressures tonight when it's cooler (relatively of course).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1980sd View Post
Very good news! Keep plugging at the vacuum lines and it'll fall into place.

I printed out some vacuum schematics and colored in each "leg" of the circuits as I tested them. It helped me keep track of which lines I had checked. I had a couple of loose check valves and a bad fresh air element. Mine worked fine with both of the fresh air element lines plugged.

It helped me to separate the lines so I could see what was going on:



It also helped to use a little vacuum connector on the vac pump to check circuits:



I also found a leak in the servo vacuum switch which was screwing up my center vent flappage:



The Medusa like hoses were leaking so I replaced them...

Maybe this will help a little.
I'm at the point where I'm just going to order a dozen connectors, check valves, and whatever else I can find to make sure this system is working! Right now I have a thermometer jammed in to the vent which keeps the vents open.

Hogweed did send my a vacuum pod for the center flap since mine is leaking, but it has the wrong style attachment fitting. Mine is the one with the little pegs and those circular clips (I need to figure out how to get those off). Still, the diaphragm should swap in nicely.

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