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#76
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Quote:
I still want a /8 3.5 or 4.2 to mess with but just for fun and because people are letting them rot.
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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed. 1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver. 1977 U1000 Unimog 2007 Ram 2500 6.7l |
#77
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by popular demand
These pics are being posted since so many of you have requested pics......or have forgotten what state of repair (or is it disrepair?) that Coda presently rests.
Please note that Coda fits into my garage with about a total of 28inches to spare. I've got all that room between the front bumper and the wall. I bet there is less than one inch between the rear bumper and the garage door. As you can see, I have a lot of stuff in my garage. Anyway, on to the pics. The cardboard box sitting on top of "battery space" came today from Phil. It contains 6 transmission coolent hoses and 5 meters of the cloth covered fuel return line. I've had the new clear plastic fuel lines for quite some time --- almost time to put those on, for sure. A few shots of Coda's interior, too. What??? Coda has two steering wheels? Maybe one is for the backseat driver? And a picture of the perfect black backseat .....when the flash doesn't go off Don't forget to lower the car before closing the HOOD!!!! Someone help me remember!!! This is why Coda cannot go up any higher.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#78
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I can't buy it, no heated seats.
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#79
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I was just gonna say that I wished Umlaut had seats that nice. mmmm black leather.
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1972 W115 220D/8 SLS, Coffman Starter "Ümläüt" (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#80
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It's cheaper without heated seats........right? You could always find them and install them yourself.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#81
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December 10th update.....
Well, some of you might remember that I think I buggered up the big 10mm motor mount underneath hole threads of the original motor arm on the driver side back when I attempted to do the motor mounts earlier this year. Having said all of that and if your memory is still with me.....then you know I took off said arm from the 300SDL parts car. Of course, I stripped out the allen head on the bolt on it. So tonight, I undertook to get the bolt out of the replacement arm. I should point out that the motor mount was in very good shape on the replacement arm, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing there was a stripped out allen head waiting for the next owner to deal with on the next motor mount change.
So, here's a pic of everything I used to get the the bolt out. I might add I started in the upper section of the picture where the red X is and the dashed path is the course of the motor arm travels. Anyone want to guess how I managed to break the bond? Here's a detailed shot of the arm with the bolt out. OH....one more question for the thread readers. Do I use Locktite or Never Cease on the new bolts when I put them back in?
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#82
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OH....one more question for the thread readers.
Do I use Locktite or Never Cease on the new bolts when I put them back in? Both.
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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K |
#83
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Heat and reverse drill bit?
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#84
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hood at 90 degrees
Daw how do you get your hood open that far? i looked atm mine and cant see a release point anywhere.
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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K |
#85
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There are little tabs on each hood hinge. You move them down and then you can raise the hood fully.
-Jason
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#86
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Nope.
Anyone else want to guess? Please note that I cut away all of the "older" rubber mount......it really was in pretty good shape.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#87
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What Jason (compu_85) said. Here's a pic.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#88
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Quote:
That's what I did with the stripped out bolt on my wagon. Once the head was drilled off, there was no tension on the bolt and it unscrewed with no resistance. You don't need to use thread lock on those bolts because the tension holds it in just fine. I don't think a little never seize would be a problem but I don't think it needs it either. EDIT: Upon closer examination of your photo, I think it's possible that after you chewed away the rubber of the mount, you grabbed the bolt head in the vice and used the pipe wrench to spin the arm and loosen the bolt.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#89
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Chad.
Good guesses, but the 2 drill bits I tried were NOT up to the task. And the shape of the motor arm makes it very difficult to put in a vice; although I did manage. I could get a grip on the motor mount using the pipe wrench but I couldn't get any leverage. I resorted to hitting the mount (what was left of it) with the hammer while holding the vice down. I looked like some sort of pretzel on the floor. I wish I had a heavy work bench with the vice mounted to it. Anyway, once the mount turned just a little bit....it was loose --- then I could use the Allen head to unscrew the bolt.....Amazing that the torch wasn't able to break the bond. The weird part is there wasn't any rust nor any type of oxidation on the part\bolt. Whoever torque that bolt in there wanted to be sure it did not come loose.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more Last edited by daw_two; 12-12-2009 at 08:41 AM. |
#90
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progress is being made......
Well, tonight, I had an opportunity to use my 24mm open end wrench. I think it's the first time I'm used it. Here's what I did tonight:
And......I found a mystery label....that I had never seen before. I'm curious if anyone knows what this label means. I'll post that pic first. And a few pics of the underneath of the driver's wheel well --- please note the area around the edge where the chrome wheel well trim piece clips on --- no rust.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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