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  #1  
Old 03-04-2009, 09:13 PM
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Question Upgrading w123 rear trailing arms to aluminum w126 ones possible???

Hi there;

I have a 1983 300D Turbodiesel and it has the normal, "rusted out rear trailing arms" issue.

I ordered a set of replacement ones from a West Coast Benz scrapper and received the package recently.

It turns out that they sent a part that is different than what my car has, but they insist that it's interchangable.

The best of my research leads me to believe that it seems to be.

Can someone please confirm this? The part that they sent me is marked with the numbers 126 352 04 04.

I looked that number up and don't find much. There is a set on eBay now, and they identify it as being off of an w107 car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380074381472&fromMakeTrack=true

I compared the two, and see that the new one is aluminum, which would be great as it won't rust out, and this car is definitely a keeper for me.

I get the feeling that some w126's used steel ones and others used aluminum parts, but just can't confirm.

ANYTHING to help clarify things for me would be most appreciated.

I'm getting a local shop to do this work and can't afford to be rear-wheel-less for too long with them so I really need to confirm that this is possible.

I noticed that the brake calipers seem to mount 180 degrees off from where they do with the parts I have installed. Aside from that though, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Of course, if it would work, I'd expect to be able to find others talking about this upgrade.

Anyway - fingers crossed. Thanks for any help in advance...




nsantolick

1983 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel
1971 Mercedes 280S
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2009, 10:24 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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I recall reading somewhere that they were that same. But don't have that link.

But according to ADSITCO (my favorite parts store... Yeah right!..... But I am sure their info is correct) the "Lower Control Arm- Rear" have the same part number.

W123

W126



And if you do a search on the Fastlane site, the trailing arms are the same part number.


So my guess it will fit and the Aluminum part is a nice discovery replacement for the rust belt folks.
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2009, 11:56 PM
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The only aluminium trailing arm I have see when crawling under PNP cars, looking for a few treasures. Is a W126 SEC. they do look different than the W123 as I remember. but who knows?

Here is a thread with some charts with what crosses over to what.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=229825

Charlie
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  #4  
Old 03-05-2009, 12:05 AM
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I think you may have found a nice upgrade...
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  #5  
Old 03-05-2009, 06:00 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I had an sec and always assumed they are interchangible. I don't know for sure, but I would take the yards word for it. A nice upgrade, IMHO, too.
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  #6  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:23 AM
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No rust and less weight flying around-good deal!
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  #7  
Old 03-05-2009, 07:36 PM
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The cast units are found on the 500SE/L and the 560SEL.
And maybe on the equivalent SECs...

And.... are they not magnesium?

Jim
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2009, 08:38 PM
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Looking at the factory manual, it looks like the AL arms were an option for the w123 and w126. They have an anti-squat function too. I was thinking about this a few month back while I was under a 450slc, it would be a nice upgrade.
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2009, 08:50 PM
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I would look up the specs for both but they cant be the same seeing that W126 is a much wider car than a W123.
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  #10  
Old 03-05-2009, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oracle12345 View Post
...they cant be the same seeing that W126 is a much wider car than a W123.


...and so are the mouting points on the rear subframe
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2009, 01:32 PM
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I believe the first/second gen 126 arms are different no?
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2009, 04:06 PM
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Oh, oh. Now I'm getting worried...
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  #13  
Old 03-07-2009, 04:35 PM
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I dont have much to contribute to this thread, but If I get a chance Ill go and measure the ones I have behind my garage, I have both the steel and aluminium W126 trailing arms as well as the W123 trailing arms.

I suppose I could measure the first gen and second gen arms as well,

If i get a chance ill do it for the benifit of the board.
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2009, 02:30 PM
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Well, still looks like we're going to try. The problem is though, since I don't have the "original type" on hand, if the shop takes everything off, including the subframe as we're replacing those rubber parts too, they'll be stuck with a car that can't be moved (with what they have available to them, anyway) for two weeks or so, so labor could add up if they needed to reassemble everything temporarily, and then take it all apart again later.

I'm convinced that the arms "will fit on..." I'm convinced that the brake calipers will be just fine, if they are reversed from side to side in the rear, to make up for the 180 degree off from original caliper mounting points... I think the sway bar will fit too, although it may be distorted slightly by "forcing" it to fit. (I sense that there is an ever so minor change in the length of the sway-bar mount points, and assume that there was a whole different sway bar used on cars that came with these aluminum arms. The latter is just speculation and "guestimating" by studying the arms, side by side, as best I could with them still on the car...

I don't know the terminology - aside from the main bushings, that the arms hinge on, what are the other three rubber/plastic bushings called? Spindle something or others? Anyway, although it would seem to be a good practice to change these out too, whilst rebuilding the rear suspension of these cars, why is it that it just doesn't seem like anyone bothers? I've heard that you need a special "push-pull press" to remove them, and that the same system is also used on some Volvos?

I don't know much about this stuff, but, "what's the story" with "whatever those parts are???"

Thanks so much. I'll document things as best I can.













Nick - Hazleton, PA

1971 280S
1983 300D Turbodiesel
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2009, 03:34 PM
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Why don't you have the shop put the car up on a lift and compare the new ones to the old steel ones. It should only take a few measurements to confirm they will fit.
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