I cant get the rear bolt of the front seat out. Are there nuts holding the bolts?? Anyhow.. if there are i cant get to the nuts with a wrench.. the bolt just turns and turns. Advice?? Ideas??

No nuts holding them if I remember right. Maybe your threads are stripped out.

Try wiggling it with a pliers to see if it will wiggle out. Did all the other ones come out ok?

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It just keeps spining without coming out. Will try with the other bolts

the threads have rusted. Drill the bolt out.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I had mine out a while back. If I remember correctly there is a "plate nut" welded in to the floor.

That is a common place for rust. If it is spinning, it probably broke loose of its weld.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

There is a nut "underneath" the channel.........suppose to be held in place with a "clip". The clip has rusted which allows the nut to spin. Ask me how I know. I'm glad I was trying to remove a seat in the junkyard. Never did get the nut off the end of that bolt; of course, I only had my junkyard toolbox with me.


GOOD LUCK.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Yeah.. that sounds about right. So what do you recommend??

Samething happend to me. I brought a sawzall back the next and cut the floor out. I believe I told you about it at the GTG.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Yeah, you did. "My" junkyard doesn't allow power tools. I had to subcome to just taking the seat skins off. Saved from the crusher and sent to a forum member.

__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

That's the way mine are mounted. I had problems with one of the clips breaking and allowing the nut to turn. I drilled the bolt out and replaced the clip (slides on with the bolt out) with one from the bone yard.

Without power tools, it would be a tough job. Would a crow bar provide enough leverage to pull out the floor mount?

__________________
Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html

I had to use a power chisel to cut off that back bolt last time I did this. I suppose that a proper chisel and good hammer might work for younger guys....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I guess this is a stupid questio. How do you drill it out?? Just use a drill and a drill bit to "destroy" the bolt??

I'm looking up info on how to drill out a bolt, but they all talk about bolts with broken heads. The head of my bolt is still there is just that freaking clip/nut still holding it.
Any ideas??

Here are a couple of options:

If you don't care about the floor pan such as a car in a pick 'n pull or a true parts car... undo the front bolts and start rocking the seat forward and backward (about 45 degrees) and eventually the sheet metal will crack and you can lever the seat out. The method is also used if the seat is "frozen in place" (track is rusted or the seat won't move fore / aft). This ripping out of the seat is not recommended if you want to keep your floor intact.

If you do care about your floor pan, then use a wedge such as a screw driver under the head to put pressure / tension on the fastener. Then use a wrench to remove the bolt.

If the nut is stripped out of its weld cage, then drill it out... all the way through the nut and the floor. When reinstalling the seat you'll have to resort to a bolt through the floor which is attached to a nut. I'd recommend a stainless bolt with a stainless castle nyloc nut. This way it won't rust. Use some kind of sealant on the hole you put thru the floor.

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Pete Williams, President emeritus - MBCA-International Stars (Eastern Mich.) Now Wi. & Az.
1985 300D Manual 4 speed Green Hen's tooth
1979 MGB triple black Az car nice
1969 back 1/2 of MGB (Az home built trailer)
1991 Volvo 245 Wagon Nice AZ Restored Gold Brick
1983 Jeep CJ7 37,600 Miles Summer use only

Can you get a pair of needle nose vice grips in there to hold the plate nut? Then back the bolt out.

If I remember it is not blind from all sides.

Maybe dremel the the head of the bolt off. I need to go look at mine tomorrow. I have forgotten what is there.

__________________
AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)