I got an estimate from a local indy for $300 a wheel for new rear wheel bearings.
How does that sound?
He figured 2.5 hrs labor a side and his parts.
He runs a Euro auto shop and has MB knowledge.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I paid alot more for one rear bearing on my '99 300, do you really need both??
Mine was banging away, but I only did the one side. I normally replace headlites in pairs, but would only replace the failed rear bearing. Just my way.
Good Luck,


Gary

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Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

Is it for both sides, inner and outer? New seals too I assume? Its a good deal, but it is also an easy weekend job if you're willing to do it yourself...it'll save you a few bucks.

edit: ok I didn't catch the PER WHEEL part. It seems like a fair estimate. Again though, an easy money saver if you're willing to do it on your own.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Here is a great DIY for the job: http://www.peachparts.com//shopforum/showthread.php?t=206875&highlight=rear+wheel+bearings

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Phil sells the bearing kit for $90. and the pin wrench is about $50. then you need the dial indicator- another $30 or more. plus basic tools, disc brake bearing grease, etc.

IMO, If you plan on driving a 123 forever, then buy the tools and get to it. or borrow the tools. If you were local, I'd loan mine. but there are some in the rental program.

I think the Last one I did in about 90 minutes, but I had a new bearing on another hub.
If i were paying someone to do them, I would only do the side that needs it.

This is not the kind of job I want to do, because if I screw it up (very good chance) then there are catastrophic consequences.

I had the fronts done on the SL about 6 months ago for around $500.00 by my indy. He also replaced something that was causing my ABS to malfunction.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

$300 per wheel is CHEAP. Have them both done before he realizes he has undercharged you. I'd sooner swap a transmission than bugger with the rear bearings again.

I called around recently and was quoted 5-700 per side.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Surely your kidding. The Excelsior had a receipt from a shop to replace one bearing for $380.00 within the last year. This was done by the PO.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

This might be another possibility for someone with a Rear Wheel Bearing problem. Especially if your Rear Trailing Arm has some issues or you think the Rear Bearing might have spun in the Arm.
Due to an accident that cracked my drivers side Rear Control Arm (both of my Rear Trailing Arms have holes from rust in them).
I had 2 separate shipments of used Rear Trailing Arms (left and right side) from a Salvage Yard in my state. The cost of 1 Arm + shipping was less than $150.
I installed the used one on the drivers side with no problems for almost 2 year now. Meaning no Rear Wheel Bearing Problems.
I have never gotten around to installing the Passanger side one yet.
I do not know the cost if you pulled one yourself at the J Yard but I am guessing it is considerably less.
Of course there is some gamble and you could remove a bad one but at the local J Yards out here for some extra money you can get insurance. If the 1st one is no good you can come back and get another one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not all. Having done it myself I'd almost say its worth the $600. And I am a miser.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Well thats a good range of $ and opinions.
On another note I am going to be pulling my driveshaft again and check to see if I screwed up the install when I replaced my center carrier. The car has a wicked rotary driveline vibration that is very annoying.
That and pulling and flushing my fuel tank and strainer prior to BD use are my next projects so the bearings will have to wait till that other stuff is done.
If the money is there later I may have him do the bearings.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I forgot to ask this; has the above Indy had actual experience replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings on your make and model of Mercedes?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I was told he was a former MB mech and he said to me as we walked to his office to get an estimate that the bearing job for my car was "a real bear" so I assume he has done them before.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

It's much cheaper and easier to buy a rear trailing arm in a 126 model and replace the whole arm leaving the bearing in the replacement unit. It takes a lot of work and special tool to replace these bearings that almost never go bad. Dont forget to get a 4 wheel alignment done afterwards.

the trailing arm is the same for 123 and 126.

As for a 4 wheel alignment- on a 123 at least- it is not possible to change the rear alignment aside from using eccentric bushings on the Trailing arm(how??), or different springs/shims- so save your money.