If it did not look like Grease was leaking out of the old Seals to begin with and they were not damaged or otherwise disturbed they most often can be reused.
However, if you live some where that is extremely dusty or you have a good chance of driving through water and submerging you wheels above the Axle level it might be better to replace the seals.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

X2

if you are repacking the bearings- which may not be a bad idea while you have the hub off,(that's how I do it) you will need to remove the seal- and therefor ruin it.

if you are just going to change rotors, you probably can get away w/out replacing the seal, as long as you are careful removing and replacing the hub from the spindle.

FWIW- I order extra front wheel seals to keep on hand for these situations- they are 1/4 the cost of local sources to add to an existing online parts order.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Thanks guys. I'll just see if I can get the seals at a local parts store, if they have them in stock.

I'm also concerned about mixing wheel bearing grease if I do repack. I bought this:




Would this be sufficient to repack the bearings with or at least "throw a little extra on?" Or should I save it for new bearings, OR simply wait till the dealership opens next time to get some MB High Temp Anti-Friction Grease?

You need to remove all the existing grease, especially since you cannot determine its type.

There is absolutely nothing special about MB wheel gearings that would dictate the need for "MB" grease.

To pull the hardware down to this level and ignore repacking of the inner bearing is just about the most foolish thing a person can do. Some of these bearings are rotating on the original factory grease because of this type of approach.

The cost of a seal is $4.00 and the grease is $8.00. Just do it.

The proper procedure requires you to thoroughly clean the bearings with mineral spirits or acetone. All traces of the old grease need to be eliminated.

Then, you start with clean hands and pack as much grease as you possibly can between the rollers. It takes about 6-7 minutes per bearing to properly accomplish this...........a process that is usually foreshortened by most mechanics. Additional grease is put into the raceway and hub for insurance, but the critical point of the grease is only where the rollers contact the raceways.

That might depend on which end of the car one is working on. Replacing the front rotors without touching a bearing would be quite a feat.

you do not NEED to remove the seal and inner bearing from the hub to replace the rotors. you do need to remove the hub, and reset the bearing play, etc...so I guess you do need to touch that outer one....

but as I said earlier, and most anyone that has done the job before knows, you should repack the bearings at this point. the only exception would be if you had freshly packed bearings, and ruined a rotor shortly thereafter. then MAY-be one could get away without doing a full repack. ( I would clean and pack them , but some peeps live on the edge...)

but I also stated earlier- for the peeps whom do not always read every post- it is a good idea to keep extra seals on hand, so that anytime you get to this point, there is no reason NOT to clean and pack the bearings.


And as BC stated- all old grease should be removed, bearings inspected for discoloration and wear, then repacked with good DISC brake rated grease.

most flaps will have the seal on hand. and the bearing sets are #3 outer and #5 inner.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

so I dont have the dial gizmo ,by "hard to turn" ,
like almost cant turn or wont turn and then back out 1/3 ???

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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace

Use the dial indicator, you'll never get it proper without. Been there, done that.

I use a bearing packing tool by LISLIE I believe is the brand, works great.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]