Iam sure the 123`s use the same length rear section. Iam not sure with the w123 300CD/280CE, that rear section may be different.

the 300TD and 240D/300D rear section is the same length. the diameters will be larger on some. I have a 240D the one off my 85 300D, and one I installed off a 80 300D. that last one has a larger diameter than the other 2. the 240 being the smaller diameter.

I used the rear driveline from the 80 300D, it only had 160,000k miles on it compared to my 34+,xxxk miles. that was like new compared to my high milage one.

This is a good time to replace the center bearing now you have it apart.

when I had the front section from the 240 shortened, the shop charged $150.00. they also will replace the MB U-Joint with a Nissan sealed none greaseable joint. some driveline shops replace them with one with a zirk fitting. if I have it done, I`ll go with the Nissan joint. so far for now, it is running smooth as can be.

when you finally get the transmission installed and things all connected back up, you will have to eliminate some of the throttle linkage. like the Bowden cable and a few things, don`t remember all.

I just replaced the plate and two rods on the valve cover with one off a 78 W116 300SD. I drove it today for the first time, and wow what a difference. the peddle is smoother to push down, and the jerkyness and driveline vibe`s etc are mostly gone.

one of the two rods has a threaded section, and sort of a slip joint, think that is what really smoothed it out mostly.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266013

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I wouldn't claim to be able to say just how it is balanced, but the pattern of lightening holes grouped as they are can't allow it to be neutral in the case of the wheel that flywheel that I have.

If you divided the wheel into three 120* sections, two have a pattern of five roughly half inch diameter holes machined deeply into the rim, while the third arc segment has no lightening holes at all.

If it were like the harmonic balancer with it's one or two holes, both much smaller and shallower than these, I'd consider them to be balance adjustments, but these are a good bit larger than any adjustment removals I've seen, even in the larger engines I've seen apart.


That being said, it's going to be spun and balanced long before it makes it into the car, as will the drive line after modification.

Edit:
All this is talking about the manual flywheel.

The automatic only has a flex disc, a spindly structure of sheet metal forming a three point support, and bolted onto a toothed ring around the perimeter. I'm not sure just how that could be a balance mass in any way shape or form, but I'll look again when I get the donor car's transmission off.

__________________
-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

Well I pulled the transmission on my 82 240D parts car, I think i'll be going with the 79 trans I have. They are identical, but the 79 looks in better shape. The 82 was filled with crud inside! The mileage on them are nearly identical.

Your linkage swap looks great Charlie. That makes sense that you can eliminate any slop with the adjustable linkage. Cleans up nice too... I'll have to hunt around for a set.

Now with auto removed and a manual removal under my belt, I have a question about the swap. There's two wiring hookups on the auto that weren't on the manual (see attached pic). What happens to them when I put the manual in?

Time to start ordering parts...

Attached Thumbnails

     

Did those wires go to your Nutral safety Switch? If so two are for the backup lights. the other two which are purple? should be for the start position.

I just pulled the NSS plug and cable into the cabin through that gromett. I later washed up the gromet to degrease it, and filled the hole with RTV to keep out water and cold air.

I was just looking through my notes when I did this swap. the wire from the back up switch on the shifter, has a grey wire with yellow stripe, and a black with yellow-red stripe.

Looking at the back of the plug with the cover off, grey/yel strip, bottom right.
blk/yel stripe bottom left.
the two top pins should have a jumper across the pins. this just connects the two purple wires together.

the plug on the 300TD which is on the drivers side at the top of the carpet for the console cover. sort of above your right knee. mounted to a bracket.

bottom left pin, grey/yellow stripe.
bottom right pin, black/yellow-red stripe

top right pin, purple/white stripe
top left pin, purple (with a small purple wire) not sure what I ment by that when I scribbled that down

once you get in there it will make sense, (I hope).

when I cut the shift rods, I used a 10mm 1.50 Die to rethread them. the rods miked out to 9.60mm. so the threads won`t be as deep or raised as original. but so far hasn`t caused me any problems.
I cut 4 1/2 inches off 2 of the rods and 3 3/4 off the other one. But measure yours just to be sure.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Linkage? I had to go back and see what you were talking about. I forgot I linked that.

It`s like night and day from what it was.

After I did the 4-spd swap, I was getting this vibration. above 2100rpm it would sort of smooth out. below that I would get it. and slowing down to an intersection light, it would buck like lugging the engine. this would be like 12 to 1500rpm.

I read about lowering the trans mount, dropping the center support some. so I was up and down with spaces, changed the trans rubber mount from a 300D turbo, the wider one, to an early 300d with the metal brace on it, and a 240D mount.

It wasn`t until I changed that linkage, everything seemed to smooth out. now I can roll up to a red light in 3rd, and the rpm`s get down to 700, with out any bucking and vibrating. such a simple thing.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Fantastic, yes that was the NSS. Sounds fairly straight forward to me, thanks to you I should be able to figure this out when I get there.

That is quite incredible how the linkage smoothed things out. This is definitely on my to do list...

The holidays are looking like they are going to slow my progress, but I'm thinking this will be completed well before winter is over in MN.

My 81 240D has a 617.912 in it, but i get REALLY bad bucking at low rpms like it shoved my AC compressor into my hood and made dents, My car already has minimal linkage on it. Do you have any suggestions on how to minimize the bucking?
Thanks,
Michael.

__________________
1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light

LOL! Awesome! I love the way that shifter looks on that car
I haven't done business with these people, but their used transmissions come with a 30 day warranty, and they seem to have the 4-speed... they want $396 for a used one though, I don't know what your budget looks like, but you might want to call them and see...
http://www.adsitco.com/category.asp?CID=1644&VID=

__________________
[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

It`s been a few months since you last posted on your project, but at -1deg I wouldn`t work on mine either. 50 is too cold for me around here at times.

Good you got her up and running, it is a different car isn`t it? I remember the excitement when I finally got her to move the first time. WOW! thought I was in a Corvette . I guess it is the 2:88 Diff., reverse is almost faster than first gear.

now Iam wondering which rod I used in the master cyl. I do know the peddle seems too close to the floor for engagement. and the pita the master is to work on under the dash............nah, no way Iam messing with it now. the bleeding was bad enough.

too bad about the trans problem. $200 for one already pulled is not a bad price. PNP charges $149 out the door total cost, and I pull it. that adsitco is a bit pricy I would think.
there is a thread about them, and to stay away, customer svc sucks. do a search on them. But some people have had good luck with them.

At least now you will have a trans to take apart and maybe replace the bearings to have a good spare. another learning curve. the haynes manual shows the iron box disassembled as a good guide.

A couple months back I sent the driveline back to the shop and had the U-joint replaced. had a vibration that I have been trying to work out. thought I didn`t have the FW balanced right, maybe wrong trans rubber mount, maybe some angle off . even wiggled and moved the DL. then one day checked the center bearing/U-jount again and detected some movement in the joint. so much for my low milage DL from PNP . But did drive it a year before this showed up.

I just replaced the sub frame and trailing arm bushings and swaped in lower milage trailing arms and lower milage Diff., and as soon as I get the new parking brakes installed and exhaust back on, I hope nothing shakes rattles or vibrates . Iam at 361k so some of this was due for a up grade.

enjoy your car this summer, Iam sure you will.

Charlie .............. Wow, Iam at 3000 posts...............

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks guys! Those adsitco transmissions look nice, maybe in a few years when I get a G wagen

Charlie yes that bleeding was a bear. I hope I don't have to open up the clutch hydraulics when putting the new tranny in..

It sure is like a Corvette! Car is so much more fun to drive. I have AAA so I've been driving it to work everyday... too fun not to drive.

You sure are getting rid of every rattle. I've been trying, but on a slower pace. I'm planning on new engine mounts and shocks soon too.

Oh and yeah the front end did come up just like you said. I might try cutting the springs like you showed, I think I'd be more comfortable putting in the voightlands though.

When you swap out the transmissions, you won`t have to open up the hydraulics. unbolt the slave cylinder and leave it connected to the line. set it aside, wire it up out of the way. then drop the transmission.

when the new one is installed, just bolt the slave back on.

here is the Adsitco thread I was thinking about.

Read This Before you EVER buy anything from adsitco

I didn`t cut my springs, I just replaced them with a set off a 240D. now I need to swap in the sway bar I have from a TD. I`ll try to get it in before the NW GTG July 22 in Washington.
Last year I had just got the 4-spd in before the last GTG up there. the front end was so high, I was blinding the Owl`s with the headlights .

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

oh nice. I'll scrounge around maybe try the 240 springs route, thanks for the tip.

I wish WA was just a bit closer to MN! Maybe next year... then I'll have everything chased down and be really proud to show her off

Wow... I dodn't know how bad the Adsitco place was... interesting thread and thanks for the heads up... I'll look elsewhere when I'm in the market for a manual tranny...

__________________
[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

Oh sorry, i don't have the P/N on either. I did call the dealer and he said the black one is from early 240d's. The cost difference was huge, black push rod was around $50, white I think was $17.

Sometimes when you buy a new master cylinder it comes with both pushrods.

I wonder by early, if they mean the old cast iron gear box. think 80 was the last year for them, then they went to the one piece aluminium box.

I have both rods, not a lot of difference in the length. I suppose enough to make a difference

When I did my swap, I used the white rod. You think maybe using the longer black rod might but a little pressure on the MC, which would push some against the slave causing the release bearing to work harder.? Just a thought.

My peddle grabs close to the floor. maybe the longer rod would help have it grab a little higher. there really isn`t any adjustments to help much.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works