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  #91  
Old 10-19-2013, 03:16 PM
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You sound like a vw guy now. I'm not into making the car useless for daily driving
Hey, I'm still waiting for the nine-foot-long baby-eating serpent.

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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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  #92  
Old 10-19-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
Hey, I'm still waiting for the nine-foot-long baby-eating serpent.
Wow ever think about getting into porn
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  #93  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Wow ever think about getting into porn
lol, somehow I missed this before

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  #94  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:23 PM
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installed the SLS delete kit-

replaced all this-



with this-



pretty plug and play, the only thing I didn't use were the bolts for the pump blockoff. Nice kit for the money

some before and afters-




pump-




The springs are making a little bit of noise though on the test drive. Hopefully they settle and find a good seating location. Does seem to be less and less though, should go away after a few bumps. Here is the spring in the kit vs the stock-



and the difference in ride height-

Stock running and no SLS below-


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  #95  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:29 PM
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and before anyone goes on about why I did this, ill leave this pic in response to head you off. Imagine this x all the fittings and lines. It was only by miraculous luck that lines hadn't already started to blow. I touched this fitting and it started leaking after this pic.

Stock may be better, but stock is complex, rusty, and expensive. Now I don't have to worry about it.



how the same location looks with a normal shock. Need to find those rubber covers though for the access hole, destroyed them pretty much removing the original ones

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  #96  
Old 10-31-2013, 09:23 AM
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so I found a parking lot with about 15 speed bumps and made a few circuits. Thats settled the new springs nicely and the twanging noises have stopped completely.

The ride is definitely different than the SLS, its slightly harder, but not bad at all. Feels just like the sedan ride honestly
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  #97  
Old 11-02-2013, 12:34 PM
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first actual oil leak has presented itself.

for several weeks ive been driving around amazed that this over 300k engine actually does not leak oil, but now the honeymoon is over. Ive got a turbo drain seal leak to take care of.

Also the transmission is leaking just a little as well.

Once I resolve these items and some other fluid and maintenance things, we are almost ready for winter. I have some nice agressive mounted snow tires ready to go on there soon as well. Trying to stack the odds, feels like it might be a harsh winter everyone is saying.

With no ABS or a LSD, the fiance has to have the grippiest rubber I can find. Also need to buy some chains for her.
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  #98  
Old 11-22-2013, 09:04 AM
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we are getting ready for winter.

I had local shop RDM do a new timing chain and tensioner as cheap insurance. (if you are local, this guy is the man. If I lived even as far out as on the cape, I would consider driving to him)
Figured let the expert take care of it for the wifes car. Ill play with the chain on my own car, that way if its a disaster, I only inconvenience myself.

He said the existing chain had 0 degree of measurable stretch or wear. The rails looked good, and the valves are adjusted. Car runs better than ever.

Im amazed that on a 320k mile motor there was no noticable wear. Its possible the chain was done before Louis4052 bought it and no record was included. Happy it was in such great shape though, once again im amazed by these engines

Ive threw the new tires on finally also.


However, moving on to new issues-

The heat was working, and now nothing. The blower does not seem to come on anymore. Ive got new fuses in there, so have to track down what the problem seems to be. No heat is not good. its already fairly cold
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Last edited by JB3; 11-22-2013 at 09:22 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #99  
Old 11-22-2013, 09:11 AM
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great pics and updates! keep it up!
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  #100  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:24 AM
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The blower is powered and switched by the pbu iirc. Easiest way to isolate is pull blower connector and power it directly.

If it's a coolant flow issue easy way to diagnose is start engine from dead cold and feel all the hoses and observe the order they warm up . If you have a properly running w123 observe that first for comparison. The hose out of the head by the oil filter should get warm first. Next I think is inlet hose of monovalve. If heat is on max, then outlet hose of monovalve should follow. Then firewall hose in/out of heater core should follow. If hoses are ok heating up compared to a good w123, then it's vacuum / flap issues if blower is ok.
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  #101  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
The blower is powered and switched by the pbu iirc. Easiest way to isolate is pull blower connector and power it directly.

If it's a coolant flow issue easy way to diagnose is start engine from dead cold and feel all the hoses and observe the order they warm up . If you have a properly running w123 observe that first for comparison. The hose out of the head by the oil filter should get warm first. Next I think is inlet hose of monovalve. If heat is on max, then outlet hose of monovalve should follow. Then firewall hose in/out of heater core should follow. If hoses are ok heating up compared to a good w123, then it's vacuum / flap issues if blower is ok.
would a vacuum flap issue impact the blower coming on at all?

short story is heat worked fine and blower ran on all speeds. Dropped off car for timing chain, got it back and the buttons press and you can hear the sighing and hissing of the climate control, but the blower doesn't come on at all. Ive changed the fuses already, and ill direct run the blower.

is it possible a vac connection was knocked off and that would alter whether or not the blower would come on?
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  #102  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:36 AM
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Vacuum flap is totally separate from blower control afaik.
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  #103  
Old 11-22-2013, 01:58 PM
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so blower issue fixed, stupid simple. after running around verifying fuses and swapping them, the blower was unplugged.

someone had accidentally unhooked the wire with their foot, time to put the knee panels on.
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  #104  
Old 12-23-2013, 10:00 AM
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few incremental updates, with the help of wagon door and hatch parts from andrewtx ive replaced all the door handles and ignition cylinder with matching key tumblers. It can be locked! Ill keep the old handles and see if I can soak them for a bit to get the tumbers turning.

Removed all the auto lock stuff and we are back to MB stock in that area.

Now to rewire the heated seats.

Also got around to replacing the rear axles, I bought some decent quality remans and painted them with 4 coats of bright red enamel. should last at least a few weeks without rusting.

leaking old axles-




new axles-



I had hoped this can was leaking, but it looks like its definitely the driver rear wheel bearing slinging grease instead instead of my long shot. Once I pulled the axle, could find no leak on the can to explain this, only source is the bearing. Might as well do both wheel bearings at once when I get around to it.

Fortunately its not loose or hard to turn so far, so ill order up the parts and leave it in service until then.




also found a field mouse next above the diff mount. How they got in there beats me, but a vacuum took care of that.

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  #105  
Old 12-23-2013, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post

also found a field mouse next above the diff mount. How they got in there beats me, but a vacuum took care of that.

if you pull up the carpet in the rear facing seat footwell, then pull up the padding I think there are holes that reach into the channel the diff mount bolts to...

there may also be passages in the wheelwell storage areas...

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