I found doing a compression test was easiest when accessing the injector hole. I just made an adapter out of an old injector for my comp tester. Also, don't cheap out on any of the testing devices, I'd suggest getting one from sears at the minimum. I still have the Snapon gauge I bought over 10 years ago. Quality costs.

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Regards,
Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)

Doug,

I read on some chemical engineering site that MMO is no more than mineral spirits and 30 weight oil. As long as you change the oil before running, soaking with paint thinner / mineral spirits might be more effective. Finish off with some crankcase oil before running.

good luck

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IF you can actually get it running, Water-Injection has proved to un-stick gummed-up rings caused by veggy-oil mis/use....

Try the MMO/solvent first, if no go, Try Brake-Fluid soak in same way, to get compression up to where it'll start, then change lube as soon as you are able to fire it up and Before you run it much....

Make sure the Glow-Plugs are clean and working well, a dodgy plug will make life with Low-Compression very hard!

Get the engine good and hot, and arrange a fine mist of water into inlet-manifold at around 150-200mL per Minute, Drive for around 50 miles at a reasonable speed while running the W/I....

Has saved quite a few OM.605 and OM.606 veggy-gummed up engines, so should work on yours too.....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

You can use the injector adapter from an HF compression tester with an HF leakdown tester. Take the schrader valve out of it and take the tester and injector adapter to a hose shop, ask for a piece to go in between.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Hi
Just how did you adapt the old injector to fit the compression tester?
Thanks,
Joseph

I finally got this on the engine stand, and pulled the pan ans one main, and one rod bearing.
I found the rod bearing all chewed up, and a small mark on the crank. Also I found some discoloration on the rear onf the crank where it goes into the rear seal. Can not feel anything but I see it.

So I guess I am at a crossroads and looking for advice.
the car is not worth 2K for a complete rebuild. I do not know what it costs to grind a crank, but the bearings are standard size. So just to replace that is looking like $200.00+ and if the rings are bad or anything else... I am thinking it is time to call it quits on this car, and start over on something else.
this is the 77 300D NA car.

give me your opinions on where this is headed and the cost. Knowing that this car, or it's replacement, will teach 3 more girls to drive.
Thanks

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

With low compression, your going to put a hunk of change into this motor.

If you had great compression, then a crank regrind would be a logical route or get another used n/a crank (which I have one BTW for cheap).

Why not go back to installing that turbo motor and trans? It seems like your best route.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I would find a good used OM617

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

the whole deal with the turbo, is how do I get a throttle set up on it. This one is completely different. and I am not Mr. Fab it together. That is why I abandoned that idea.
All of my other cars are W126 models.

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I think you should be able to adapt the later style throttle linkage setup on your car.

If your local wrecking yard has some turbo 300Ds, you can examine the linkages (take pictures and measurements), get the whole setup and transfer it over.



Or get another N/A motor, drop it in and be done with it.

.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

full set of rings could be
$150 - $200

polishing crank = $70 max

ignoring other issues that you find disturbing.... priceless.

it really depends on the cylinder bores.... if they are consistent and show no signs of longitudinal or uneven wear, they are OK to throw new rings on the piston and call it 'good enough'.

paying a shop to put new sleeves in or overbore it to the next reapair size is not worth the money. You should be able to find an engine for $500 - $850 without too much hassle.

re-sleeving costs over $500 (locally, at an esteemed shop)

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so if I do a quick price check on here, assuming all I need are rings and bearings ans seals. and can do this from the bottom so I do not need to remove the head I am at another $500 just in parts.

Anyone have a good set of photos on a 300D throttle set up? including where it comes through the firewall from the pedal?

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

Whoa there partner..... where did you get the idea any of those things can be done from the bottom .... and thus without taking off the head ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Well it was a hope anyway. I have pulled pistons from the bottom of V8 cars. There does not appear to be anything that would stop them if the crank was removed. And the head gasket is just another expense to drive up the cost.
But at this point, I am not going to spend another 500 on this thing.
I am either going with the turbo, or just going to scrap the car.
I am really getting tired of working on this thing. It has been the one I should have never got!

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

You will need to get these parts from the later 300D turbo donor vehicle and adapt it your car. You will also have to relocate the pedal hole through the firewall. By measuring & cutting a new linkage hole and drill bolt holes for mounting of the newer style pedal.









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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System