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  #1  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:26 PM
Ian White's Avatar
machinemanjr
 
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Location: Spokane, Washington
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Factory CV Joints: Longevity w/o factory oil?

I have one inner boot that has leaked out the oil. I have all new boots for both half shafts inner and outer. I just haven't had the time to get them installed? I have not driven the car since I saw the oil on the shop floor, I am wondering now if it is okay to move it and drive it a short way to get it home... I don't want to have to replace anything other than the boots. I ordered febi units that came with a large tube of molybdenum grease instead of the factory oel. Tips/suggestions?

Ian

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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:41 PM
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It's about impossible to get grease into a CV joint without taking it apart.
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:47 PM
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machinemanjr
 
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I believe that is the plan. I will remove the halfshafts and disassemble the CV joints to pack them with the moly grease.
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #4  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:50 PM
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Unless you are going to be driving on dusty dirt roads or in wet conditions, you can be confident about driving the car home. There should be plenty of lubricant in the joint unless the boot is completely gone. I have driven a couple of hundred miles on a leaking boot & then just replaced it. The molly grease is better than the OEM stuff.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #5  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:52 PM
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machinemanjr
 
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Okay good, I will limp it home the boot has one small tear in it, it is intact. Besides being messy, is this job difficult? I haven't checked out the DIY articles....yet. I really don't want to replace these OEM CV joints, they have 316K miles on them I am assuming. I have no record of them being replaced. The boot are obviously factory since that have a 126 part number on them and a three pointed star molded in.
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:54 PM
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I had a rhythmic thumping in the rear end of my TD . Thought it was a wheel bearing so took it to an indy to repair. He diagnosed dry CV joints. He put in grease/oil/?? and everything has been fine for about 3 or 4 years. Not sure how he got it in there.
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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:08 PM
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I drove 2000 miles with one empty boot. It burst around October and I didn't discover the damage until Thanksgiving.

What I did was buy this gear goop stuff and I spooned a bunch of it into the boot. When I was done I wrapped it in duct tape.

The other boot was ready to burst so I sealed that in duct tape as well.

The goop in the damaged axle stayed in for the most part. My other boot finally burst a week before I replaced the axles.

If you put lubrication into the boot it can last quite a long time. Just listen and if you hear that thunk thunk thunk get excessively loud then it will be time replace it.

I was tempted to rewrap my axles and see how long the duct tape would last.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
Okay good, I will limp it home the boot has one small tear in it, it is intact. Besides being messy, is this job difficult? I haven't checked out the DIY articles....yet. I really don't want to replace these OEM CV joints, they have 316K miles on them I am assuming. I have no record of them being replaced. The boot are obviously factory since that have a 126 part number on them and a three pointed star molded in.
Ian, it's not that hard. But at the same time it is. I'd say budget in at least a weekend to replace them. Make sure you have all of the right tools (something i'm going to do from now on ).

If time is short at the moment do what I said above and wrap the joint in duct tape and put some gear grease in it.
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Last edited by okyoureabeast; 01-18-2010 at 06:17 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:12 PM
Ian White's Avatar
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When replacing the CV joints, is it necessary to replace the entire half shaft or is the CV joint replaceable? I assume they are a pressed together non serviceable deal.
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:22 PM
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They are a half shaft assembly. The boots can be a PITA to get on. I think you are meant to take the metal cover off the joint. I didnt, instead I was able to stretch the boot over. I used a champagne bottle's neck to stretch it, needs to be warm and well lubricated & no sharp edges. Some one else may have an idea or 2.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
They are a half shaft assembly. The boots can be a PITA to get on. I think you are meant to take the metal cover off the joint. I didnt, instead I was able to stretch the boot over. I used a champagne bottle's neck to stretch it, needs to be warm and well lubricated & no sharp edges. Some one else may have an idea or 2.
There's a thread on here with a link to a YouTube video of a guy putting boots on using a funnel. It's kind of auto porn complete with a female assistant, latex and lubricant.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #11  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:35 PM
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4 years ago, the boots on both axles split on my 300D...

--So I grabbed a grease gun and emptied a full tube of grease into each split boot..thinking I'd have to replace the axles soon--

It's still running OK without noise, 70K miles later. I know I'm on borrowed time, but this is ridiculous.

I will need axles, but for now it's still holding.

Not recommending this, just sayin'
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
When replacing the CV joints, is it necessary to replace the entire half shaft or is the CV joint replaceable? I assume they are a pressed together non serviceable deal.
You can replace the boot, but if the joint is already making noise the axle will eventually fail. If you want to fix the boot dieselgiant has a guide on doing it.

In my case it was just cheaper to get rebuilds from CVJ and send the cores back to them. I don't own the flex boot gun so the decision was to just replace the entire axle shaft.

Edit: Mr. Stanley broke a record with duct tape joints
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:48 PM
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machinemanjr
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Spokane, Washington
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The joints are not making any noise. I'm just re-booting ...
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Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2010, 06:59 PM
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I was kind of under the impression the long lifespan of the joints was due to the lower viscosity oil fill. The bearings would never be dry as long as the boot was intact.

I would install the boots with the outer clamps tightened down. Pour the recomended oil through a turkey baster or small funnel into the small end of the boot with the axel standing vertically or close. Install the clamp on the small end. Then put the axles on the opposite side that you removed them from. It may not do any harm to drive some of that grease into the cleaned bearings either. I would still add the recommended oil if they were my axles.

Before installing the new boots clean the old lubricant out by repeated flushing. Also feel for grit in the cv joint that had the split boot. If no grit in whatever lubricant is still left you should be good to go. As long as there is currently no clunking at present.

You have no way of knowing if the axels are original or replacements. Reversing the axels can give you a lot of new unworn surfaces though.

Now there was some discussion about there being a left and right side axle assembly. Make sure your car was manufactured later than when they were in vogue. Seems there was a guidance spiral to keep holding oil back from a seal. I would want to research this before swapping axels side to side. It is in the archives or perhaps a more knowledgeable member could quote.
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2010, 10:47 PM
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There is something missing here.
If you have a Homokinetic Axle in order to use the stock style Boots you need to press the Axles Apart. And, may have to cut the Cans.

I am not sure on the Annular Axles (on the Differential end of the Axle it has bolts going through it).

In order to use the ATF Funnel trick to Install the Boots you need to use Flexx Boots or there is a similar Dorman made Boot.

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