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  #16  
Old 02-15-2010, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfernandez View Post
power locks work when they want to.
The locks are operated by vacuum.nice ride.what are the rubber looking pieces by the rear well near bumper?Nice looking coupe....

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  #17  
Old 02-15-2010, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Atta way TF!! Very nice first car.
What kind of shape is the interior in?
forgot to take pictures of the interior. it's actually in pretty decent shape. dash is cracked, but when is it not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Nice choice for a first car. Congrats. One you diesel you never go back!

I notice it parked in front of a Masonic Lodge. Are you a Mason?
no sir. it was just the most convenient large grassy area for a good picture. I'd say a good 100 feet from my house.

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Originally Posted by thebenzbar View Post
Enjoy your new coupe Teran! Nice to see another 300CD in FL
hopefully I can get it to as good a condition as your 300CD

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Originally Posted by seanarcher View Post
The locks are operated by vacuum.nice ride.what are the rubber looking pieces by the rear well near bumper?Nice looking coupe....
I know they are vacuum, I'm just lazy on the fine details those are some black plastic pieces someone screwed into the bumper and side skirts. not too happy about them but a guess the side skirts keep a little water out of the jack-holes (though the pillars are already rusted)

as a note, the paint is a lot worse then the pictures make it out to be. least it looks nice in photos
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2010, 06:52 AM
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I am jealous of anyone who can work on their car(s) right now. With all the snow we've had, and with another couple of inches on the way, my 300SD is literally buried. It should be in the garage being prepped for a repaint, but it will be weeks until I can get it into the garage, now.
I usually like winter, but this one sucks.
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2010, 11:19 PM
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Nice coupe for a grand! You mention attacking the rust. How much/how bad/where? I see a little peeking out from under som of the trim pieces and above the DS rear bumper. You said something about rust and the pillars?
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2010, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Nice coupe for a grand! You mention attacking the rust. How much/how bad/where? I see a little peeking out from under som of the trim pieces and above the DS rear bumper. You said something about rust and the pillars?
ya there is a fair amount of trunk rust i need to bush off and coat with some POR15. and ill need some sheet metal for the holes below the DS tail light. there was floor pan rust, but the previous owner put fiberglass down as temp. fix. at some point i'm gonna need to pull out the interior and the fiberglass and get the rust taken care of properly.
I also have some more pictures up of the interior and some nice headlight shots. found out i need to buy a bulb for the right corner light though
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  #21  
Old 02-16-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tfernandez View Post
ya there is a fair amount of trunk rust i need to bush off and coat with some POR15. and ill need some sheet metal for the holes below the DS tail light. there was floor pan rust, but the previous owner put fiberglass down as temp. fix. at some point i'm gonna need to pull out the interior and the fiberglass and get the rust taken care of properly.
I also have some more pictures up of the interior and some nice headlight shots. found out i need to buy a bulb for the right corner light though
Sounds like a bit of a bummer and more than a bit of work.

I sure do love rust-free NW cars. Of course you pay a good deal more for them - I paid about 4x more for mine than you did for yours and as far as I can see the biggest difference between the two is the lack of rust. Otherwise, yours appears to be in about as good of shape as mine...
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #22  
Old 02-16-2010, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Sounds like a bit of a bummer and more than a bit of work.

I sure do love rust-free NW cars. Of course you pay a good deal more for them - I paid about 4x more for mine than you did for yours and as far as I can see the biggest difference between the two is the lack of rust. Otherwise, yours appears to be in about as good of shape as mine...
haha well it's turning out to be a big pain in the arse. the oil leak was a lot worse then i expected so i NEED to get it fix this week. and tonight my headlights and fog lights decided they didnt want to work anymore. replaced the fuses but had no dice there. im hesitant to buy new bulbs in the event that it is an electrical problem since the lights were working just fine last night.
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  #23  
Old 02-16-2010, 11:07 PM
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I'd keep an eye out for a body donor if I were you. Good buy nonetheless. You were close to starting a "cheap coupe club".
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  #24  
Old 02-17-2010, 01:00 AM
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Nice! Good luck getting the glitches worked out. With the lights: check all the wires going into the back of the headlamps, clean the connectors, and make sure all connectors are on snug. I had a turn lamp go out on my 240D, and after putting in two different bulbs with no results, I looked at the wire going into the back, and it had totally snapped off the back of the connector ... no big deal, just crimp a new connector head onto the wire. Of course it could also be a short or something lousy like that, but check the wires ... they get old and weak, and the connectors can get cruddy.
As far as rust goes, I'm in the evil rust club with my 240D. I picked up a chunk of scrap car last month that I can weld onto the back area under the taillamps ... I have rust in that same area. I also did some weld-free work on my fenders: http://savingchase.com/diy-pages/time-to-make-the-fenders/. POR15 is a big winner.
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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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  #25  
Old 02-17-2010, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by tfernandez View Post
haha well it's turning out to be a big pain in the arse. the oil leak was a lot worse then i expected so i NEED to get it fix this week. and tonight my headlights and fog lights decided they didnt want to work anymore. replaced the fuses but had no dice there. im hesitant to buy new bulbs in the event that it is an electrical problem since the lights were working just fine last night.
Buy a meter before you buy bulbs....You'll want one anyway, and you can check and see if you are getting voltage to your lights...double check the fuses and where they are held into the fuse panel, they get a build up of God-Knows-What and cuts the circuit, which brings you back to the meter (or at least a test light)
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  #26  
Old 02-18-2010, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
I'd keep an eye out for a body donor if I were you. Good buy nonetheless. You were close to starting a "cheap coupe club".
who says i cant still start one? but with all the costs building up i think i should call it the "my coupe is a pain in the @$$ club."

in all seriousness, the major problems are getting fix monday and i should be able to get the headlights workin by this weekend. doin fuel filters and maybe my power steering filter tomorrow. just wanna get it done so i can stop stressing
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Nice choice for a first car. Congrats. Once you diesel you never go back!
So true. So true.
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:23 AM
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Fuses should be your light problem ,as far as your oil leak ,oil cooler lines would be my guess.Pressure wash with alot of engine cleaner before tackeling those lines ,it makes for a lot cleaner job.
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2010, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by chasinthesun View Post
Fuses should be your light problem ,as far as your oil leak ,oil cooler lines would be my guess.Pressure wash with alot of engine cleaner before tackeling those lines ,it makes for a lot cleaner job.
i replaced the fuses and the lights still dont work, and the oil leak problem is already diagnosed and parts are in for it. i just need for my mechanic to get off vacation on monday so we can fix it. today my transmission decided it doesnt want to shift to 4th gear anymore though, so i was stuck doin 30 in a 45, which then dropped to 25. i think it might be my shifter bushing being so messed up that when i downshifted to get more acceleration, it wouldnt go into drive and was stuck on S in the housing itself. though i dont really know what im talking about so i could be horribly worng. im beginning to regret this purchase more and more everyday.
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  #30  
Old 02-18-2010, 11:27 AM
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You may have knocked a vacuum line loose while working under the hood and that might account for the trans not shifting.

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