Delivery Valve seal tool - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dablk1 · #16 03-10-2010, 06:39 PM

Let's see what happens Nate. I really don't have a problem driving to Gaitherburg. My wife works in Laurel. What's you availability?

Brian Carlton · #17 03-10-2010, 09:41 PM

It is apparent that the tool rental program is a giant secret..............

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=126728

dablk1 · #18 03-10-2010, 09:58 PM

Well Brian I've PM'd a few of the members as stated in the forum and still have been unsuccessful.

Brian Carlton · #19 03-10-2010, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dablk1

Well Brian I've PM'd a few of the members as stated in the forum and still have been unsuccessful.

Are you serious? There are four members with that socket............

If none of them responds.........advise me and I'll send you mine.

B.C.

dablk1 · #20 03-10-2010, 10:23 PM

I'll wait until Friday and see what happens. I'll be sure to let you know. I was hoping to knock it out this weekend.

777funk · #21 03-11-2010, 02:02 PM

I've got two of them. If Brian Carlton backs out on you, I'll send you mine

lol!

by the way, don't fear the job. Change all 6 and if you can, use Viton for the o-rings. It holds up a little longer. I bought mine from a member here. I'm sure you can get them from McMaster or Grainger as well.

dablk1 · #22 03-11-2010, 06:28 PM

Thanks Nick, so far you and Brian are the only 2 that have responded as of yet. I haven't gotten the O-rings yet, I was concentrating on getting the tool first. The O-rings I believe are pretty inexpensive and I can gran them from the dealer.
By the way I only have 5 to change.

dablk1 · #23 03-11-2010, 07:40 PM

Just a quick question. What's a fair price to pay for 5 injector nozzles?

777funk · #24 03-11-2010, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dablk1

Thanks Nick, so far you and Brian are the only 2 that have responded as of yet. I haven't gotten the O-rings yet, I was concentrating on getting the tool first. The O-rings I believe are pretty inexpensive and I can gran them from the dealer.
By the way I only have 5 to change.

Ok yep 2.5. Didn't see that at first. I had a 2.5 602 in my first MB diesel. The first place I took it to said that this was a sign I needed to have my Injection Pump rebuilt (they were an injection shop... no motive there at all

). The second place was an "Import specialist". Well, not too specialized. They ruined the IP.

After that, no more taking things in if I don't have to. Anyways, just be careful, keep it clean and follow the torque specs and it'll go perfect. It's a very easy job. Just don't loose any bolts for the intake etc. It's really not a bad job. I think it took me around 3-4 hours. Just pick a nice day to do it and take your time. Enjoy it. When you get it all back together it's a good feeling.

By the way I used Viton O-rings from forum member JADavis

I just dug that up. I didn't take any measurements. Should have but I think he still sells them ??? Maybe.

Here's a tutorial. The torque spec is the only thing I'd say to really note... other than how the collars work. Not too tricky of a job.

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_injection_pump_o_ring_r.htm

I took the supply and return lines off my IP, I actually had my whole IP out because of an oil leak between the block and IP, and had the supply and return lines switched (the brown lines with the banjo fittings) when I put it all back together. The car was getting fuel but only on 5 of 6 of the pump's lines. Switched them back the way they were supposed to go and everything was back to normal. But interesting. Next time I do something I haven't done before, I'll take more pictures of the before just to be safe.

dablk1 · #25 03-11-2010, 09:27 PM

Thanks for the tutorial. Sometimes you just never know what's going to happen when it goes to the shop. It's a hard task to find a trustworthy indy. I also wanted to ask you another question...I'm going to change the injector nozzles pretty soon also. What is a decent price to pay for them? I've checked out a few sites and the prices vary to much.

Diesel911 · #26 03-11-2010, 11:55 PM

The only Indy I would trust to Change the O-rings and Crush Washers on a Fuel Injection Pump is one who has done the job before with success.

The regular wrench turners are used to replacing complete components; not getting inside of those components and fixing them.

If they have not done the job before they will have to learn how to do the job; and they really do not have the time to read and follow a how-to-do it; and be careful and clean.

I think success in replacing the O-rings and Crush washers it this case favors a talented armature who will be overly cautious and would be willing to spend even a whole day to get the job done right.

Prices to exchange your Injector Spray Nozzles are going to vary from shop to shop and region to region.

If you are not in a hurry for them member C Sean Watts labor rates are good and he also sells the InjectorSpray Nozzles and I believe even brand new complete Injectors for some Engines.
Another member; bgkast also used to do Injectors but I do not know if he is still doing so.

dablk1 · #27 03-12-2010, 12:09 AM

Thanks for the info. I also read in one the forums I believe...it stated that the crush washers do not need to be replaced(how true is this). Also, I am going to do the job myself. I just don't want to get beat on prices. I'll take care of the delivery vavle seals first and then pick another day to replace the injector nozzles. I want to make sure that I have all needed parts on hand before I begin either job.

777funk · #28 03-12-2010, 08:20 AM

Just out of curiosity, other than your mileage, what makes you want to install new nozzles? How long have you had the car and are there obvious problems (noises, smoke, etc)? The reason I ask is that I changed mine right away when I purchased my 87. I don't think it needed nozzles. I didn't drive the car much before doing a bunch of R & R on it. In my opinion, I think I wasted some time and money on things that didn't need to be done.

Also, here's something I noticed with my last MB Diesel. I had some smoke (white) at idle and it seemed a little hesitant to start (not at the touch of the key like my 87 starts now). This was a W123 by the way. I speculated that the timing was retarded due to chain stretch and other wear. I turned the pump advanced a small amount (what I'd guess is 2-3 degrees in distance). It no longer smoked and started up very quickly.

By the way, my 87 (OM603 almost identical to your engine's fuel system) starts almost instantly now after the o-ring change. Literally after a week of sitting I just touch the key (if the GPs are hot) and it fires up instantly. It didn't used to do that before the o-rings. I also slightly advanced this pump when I re-installed it. There are pictures of this job (10 hours or so) in the DIY. It was not the most fun (big job) but payed off when it was done and no more Injection Pump leaks (air, fuel, or oil) and the car runs great.

dablk1 · #29 03-12-2010, 09:31 AM

Well Tom it will be 3 years in Decenber since I've had it. The reason I am considering changing the nozzles is because the engine stammers when coming down from a high idle. My primary concern are the O-rings because of the diesel smell in the interior whenever I use the climate control and the strong smell while the car is idiling. Let alone I can see it leaking. There is only a small amount of white smoke at idle, almost unnoticed at times. Well back to the nozzles; the car idles kind of rough at times, I attribute some of this to the fact that I need to replace the engine mounts also. The exterior of the injectiors are fine with no apparent leaks or damage and I changed the injector lines last year because of moisture aroud the base of a couple. Also, the car is very difficult to start when parked on an upgrade (front higher than rear). I'm going to start with the o-rings and go from there. This is a daily driver so I'll do it little by little until I get it right.

dablk1 · #30 03-12-2010, 09:38 AM

I forgot to mention that I will also be replacing the crankcase seal. It leaves marks everywhere I go. Initially I was going to take it to shop and have the work done, but after reading some of the posts and viewing a few tutorials I think that I'm more than able to do it myself.