Delivery Valve seal tool - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

777funk · #31 03-12-2010, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dablk1

Well Tom it will be 3 years in Decenber since I've had it. The reason I am considering changing the nozzles is because the engine stammers when coming down from a high idle. My primary concern are the O-rings because of the diesel smell in the interior whenever I use the climate control and the strong smell while the car is idiling. Let alone I can see it leaking. There is only a small amount of white smoke at idle, almost unnoticed at times. Well back to the nozzles; the car idles kind of rough at times, I attribute some of this to the fact that I need to replace the engine mounts also. The exterior of the injectiors are fine with no apparent leaks or damage and I changed the injector lines last year because of moisture aroud the base of a couple. Also, the car is very difficult to start when parked on an upgrade (front higher than rear). I'm going to start with the o-rings and go from there. This is a daily driver so I'll do it little by little until I get it right.

There's a lot to what could cause a rough idle. BUT... before I changed my delivery valve o-rings, my knee would shake at a stop light... After the change, it idles smooth as a top. I think the injection pump can actually draw in air as the plungers go down. This can cause a shake. All I know is that after the o-rings, no more shake and a nice smooth idle. My motor mounts are original to the best of my knowledge. I would leave the injectors until after the o-rings. Possibly before the o-rings, I'd check for air in the lines. You mentioned hard to start when parked on an incline. To me that means that there's an air leak in the fuel system somewhere. It could be your delivery valves causing that too. When you're on an incline the IP is almost at the highest point. the fuel will want to drain back to the tank. If the o-rings are not sealing air tight, air can get through them allowing the fuel to move downward with gravity. But to rule out other leaks, install a clear piece of tubing on the fuel return line (from the filter to the return pipe on the driver wheel well).

By the way, my IP didn't leak a drop of fuel visibly but the o-rings were dried and hard as could be. I think the plungers were pulling the seal loose on the downstroke and pushing it closed on the injection stroke. I never saw a drop out of my IP but I'm pretty sure they weren't sealing.

dablk1 · #32 03-12-2010, 10:23 AM

I'm going to replace the o-rings first, hopefully I will get that diesel smell out of the cabin. I'll see how it's running and then I will look for other leaks and such. My engine mounts are pretty worn, primarily the one on the drivers side. The leaky IP doesn't help it much..they definitely need to be replaced. Even with thus little quirk..my 0-60 time is still 12 to 15 secs. She runs fine on the road.

oldiesel · #33 03-12-2010, 03:47 PM

Do the copper washers as well, they have been compressed and may not seal well. Would be very false economy to be right there where you can change them and not do it and get to do the job over again.As a side note after you do this job dont be surprised if you get some clacking and nailing noise when you first start running again,in my case it quieted down after a few hundred miles and others have reported the same thing. Don

dablk1 · #34 03-12-2010, 04:20 PM

Thanks for the side note Don. First time I''ve heard anything about that. A feww hundred miles doesn't sound good.

777funk · #35 03-13-2010, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dablk1

Thanks for the side note Don. First time I''ve heard anything about that. A feww hundred miles doesn't sound good.

I had my whole IP out and dumped the oil and fuel out. I didn't have it bone dry but dryer than you'll get it with the o-ring job and there wasn't much clacking. I had it running like new in a little more time than it usually takes to purge the air after a fuel filter change. And yes as Don recommended it's a good idea to change the copper washers. Don't worry, it'll run good right away if everything is done right. I wouldn't be nervous about the job. Just take your time.

dablk1 · #36 03-13-2010, 08:50 PM

Why did you have your whole IP out?

Diesel911 · #37 03-14-2010, 12:00 AM

There is one manjor caution. Do not rotate the Engine/Fuel Injection Pump while doing the job (and there is no reason to do so).
As, rotating the Fuel Injecion Pump can cause the Element Barrels to rise up past there alignment pins and if they rotate slightly when you torque them it can damage the housing.

dablk1 · #38 03-14-2010, 12:09 AM

Thanks for the info.

Diesel911 · #39 03-14-2010, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dablk1

Thanks for the info.

I updated my post; it should have been; the Element Barrels to rise up past there alignment pins...

But, same idea; do not rotate the IP.

Renntag · #40 06-09-2010, 04:03 PM

I was able to easily replace the delivery valve seals (copper and o-ring) and get the motor to restart.
Letting the car sit for 2 days, it started right up. Previously it wouldn't restart after sitting as little as 2 hours.

I have to perform this same operation on my 86 300sdl. I now have the confidence to just dive in.

dablk1 · #41 06-09-2010, 04:27 PM

Good job. It's not nearly as scary once you get in there. This forum has given me the confidenc to do one job rught after the next. I might stumble every once in a while, I just step back take a breath, recheck the forum and keep it moving.

fullcircle · #42 07-06-2010, 05:13 PM

(Update to below--I just ordered the tool from Peachparts for $38 as suggested by the member a few posts down. Thanks for the help.)

Hi folks.

I posted in the tool rental thread, so forgive the duplication, I just don't know how to find a member so I can PM them directly. This post might get more exposure. I did pm Mike-in-the-Sky (if you're reading this). Anyway, I'm near Poughkeepsie, NY (midway between NY City and Albany, NY) and have to do the delivery valve seals/washers on my '87. If anybody within reasonable driving distance has the tool and wouldn't mind renting/selling/lending it to me, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any help and thanks for the help in this post.

-Roy

1977busman · #43 07-06-2010, 07:39 PM

I am doing the same job in my 92 300d, and couldnt find the ool anywhere so i thought id ask my mechanic buddy before i ordered online here. Next thing I know, he ordered it. It took 2.5 weeks on back order and was $80.00!!!!!!!!!!!

I dont even want to take it outta the package yet...So yeah dont go through snap on...

Renntag · #44 07-06-2010, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1977busman

I ... couldnt find the ool anywhere...

Its for sale here for $38.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?qty=1&sku=KO4133

Google search found this thread:
617-0109 Splined/serrated Socket...Diesel delivery valve tool
Which links to the tool above.

I got mine on ebay in combination with the pump locking tool for a bit more. Would have purchased here had I found it first.

This was an easy job. Well worth having your own socket.

Enjoy.

fullcircle · #45 07-07-2010, 07:24 AM

Thanks for the information. $38 is far better than the $60 to $80 I've been seeing/hearing. Thought I'd seen a reference to Peachparts being in that range, so shame on me for not actually checking myself.