MB--> INTERNATIONAL Metro Swap

[geoffraynak]

My swap has finally taken shape thanks to some help from Dan at Binder Boneyard.

Here is a WIP image.


We are currently going to try and use the engine and tranny ...
And most of the ancillary bits.


So my next question is: what else to we take out of the 300SD?
Here is a list of what we have take so far:
Most of the wiring harness
Dash cluster
Sensors and instruments from bay (Like GP timer and TDC sensor)
Front drive shaft
Engine shocks
Transmission mount
Engine mounts

Sooooooo... What else should I take to help save headaches down the line.
What is necessary for vacuum shut off?
Kickdown switch?
Solenoids or switches from under the dash?
Vacuum related parts?
??

I am fine with taking more than I need ... To be sure ...
But I am also hoping to get the 300SD carcass out of the boneyard in a timely fashion.

Many thanks!
Geoff

[dkr]

How about some pics of the Metro? When I first read the post, I was thinking who would put a Mercedes engine in a Geo Metro? Then I saw your signature.

Dkr.

[binderbound]

Metro before drivetrain removal.



Drivetrain removed



Perhaps Geoff will start another thread when I get it installed and get the 4 wheel drive conversion going.

[t walgamuth]

Cool!

[tbomachines]

Gotta say this is really neat! Looking forward to seeing the end product


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[geoffraynak]

Thanks everyone.
Yeah... The plan is to have a pretty amazing little 4x4 camper.
Should get a lot of miles and maybe even a few smiles

In an attempt to reign the thread:
Can anyone provide some guidance on what addition parts I should save versus what parts will be relatively easy to replace/upgrade with aftermarket options?

Thanks!!!!
G

[rscurtis]

A 4BT Cummins will move that truck a lot better than the 617 could ever dream about.

[GregMN]

Remove the cruise control. It is a stand alone accessory. All it needs is power and a speed signal.
Stalk on steering column & wiring
Control box & wiring
Actuator on accelerator linkage & wiring

Remove any electric controlled vacuum solenoids. You can use these to electrically control the vacuum to the shutdown switch on the IP.

[bricktron]

i would take the ignition assembly too, as i recall it has a vacuum shutoff component you will need (please correct me if i'm wrong).

[mach4]

Originally Posted by bricktron

i would take the ignition assembly too, as i recall it has a vacuum shutoff component you will need (please correct me if i'm wrong).

That's actually a pretty complex system to retrofit. It would be far easier (and from direct experience, I believe better) to go with manual systems for both glow and shutdown. On the glow side, harvest the glow relay just for the harness and fuse and hook it up using a Ford solenoid and momentary switch. On the shutdown side use a vacuum solenoid and a momentary switch. Note: if you use a switchover valve you'll be fine, but if you use a pure solenoid, you'll need to put a pin hole in the vacuum line from the solenoid to the shutoff valve to bleed off vacuum so you can do a restart in a reasonable amount of time. (Let me know of you need a link to how to do this) For ignition you can then use any aftermarket ignition switch that works for your designated mounting place, maybe even something like this

[mach4]

I'd grab the cluster in case you decide to use the tach, oil and temp modules. If the tach takes its signal off the flywheel, grab the EGR controller, otherwise grab the tach amp off the wheel well. The temp sender is on the engine and the oil sender is on the oil filter housing, so you'll have those automatically.

I'd also grab any rubber heater lines and hard lines - I found those useful in hooking things up on my 617->107 conversion.

Grab the coolant overflow tank and radiator cap if they're good. Radiator and oil cooler are good to have too. Exhaust down tube, shift quadrant and linkage, center bearing, throttle linkage, all vacuum stuff, A/C lines, etc

Remember, if you take it, you probably won't need it, but if you don't take it, you definitely will - so just make your life easy and grab anything that isn't nailed down.

[Dan Stokes]

The oil cooler lines will probably be a stinker to remove - at least mine were. Given the use mine will see I decided to bypass the cooler with a loop of high pressure hydraulic line but if you want to run the cooler (a good idea if you plan to drive it on the street) you may want to simply cut the lines and have new ones made up as the factory lines likely won't go where you need them anyhow.

On the shutdown - this was a real PITA for mine as the engine has to shut down when the safety inspector flips the external battery power switch. The main thing to remember is that you have to APPLY vacuum for the shut-down to work which to me is counter-intuitive. If you use a solenoid it needs to be a 3-port or if you go with a valve it needs to be a 3 port. This allows the vacuum to bleed off when you remove it from the shut-down port on the IP. The third port will allow the vacuum to bleed to atmosphere when you stop shutting off the engine. Check the plumbing diagram of your 3 port and you can figure out how to plumb it - the ports may vary by manufacturer so I won't post my "which port is which" diagram.

I'm deleting the engine-mounted vacuum pump (Greazzer has a design for a plate to to this - mine should arrive in a day or two) and I have a VW pump in place. If all you need is vacuum for shut-down the engine pump has way more output than you need.

If you check my build thread I'm pretty sure I posted details of how I built mine but yours can be a lot simpler as you don't have to get past the track safety inspectors.

Dan

[Mxfrank]

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

On the shutdown - this was a real PITA for mine as the engine has to shut down when the safety inspector flips the external battery power switch. The main thing to remember is that you have to APPLY vacuum for the shut-down to work which to me is counter-intuitive. If you use a solenoid it needs to be a 3-port or if you go with a valve it needs to be a 3 port. This allows the vacuum to bleed off when you remove it from the shut-down port on the IP. The third port will allow the vacuum to bleed to atmosphere when you stop shutting off the engine.

Should be plenty of vacuum switchover valves in the SD that could be used for this purpose. You can use the reservac (which is the vacuum bottle hidden in the left fender) as a vacuum source, or maybe save the electric vacuum pump under the back seat.

[GregMN]

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

The oil cooler lines will probably be a stinker to remove

When I pull an engine for a swap, I pull the oil cooler with lines still attached to the engine.

[ngarover]

Is that metro the full aluminum one? Does it have the tag above the driver with the instructions on how to quarter it for demolition when your done using it and state government use only? I bought one years ago from a fire department that was and did. Ironically lost it to a fire... But got almost 5 times more than I paid for it as aluminum scrap!