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#1
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The 1.3 L differential case houses a 210mm gear to take the higher torque loads that a V8 puts out.
The case that's in your car currently is a 1.1 L differential case and has a 185mm gear. It's a much weaker unit. Combined with your manual trans and driving style, it seems you beat the crap out of your differential, hence the need for a stronger unit. .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#2
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Quote:
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#3
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Quote:
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#4
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Further Update:
Well, it seems that WhiskeyDan wins the prize. My Indy says it's the U-Joint. I'm not really sure where this leaves me, though.
Is there anyway to rebuild a U-Joint? This is not something I want to attempt, I'm just curious if it's possible and who would do it. A new driveshaft is over $1K. I plan on keeping this car for a while but if a used shaft will suffice I would rather go that route for financial reasons. What driveshafts will fit in an 85' 300SD? Would a later model 126 be the best bet or should I try and find a good example of the same model and year? Is it even possible to find a good used driveshaft? This car only has 100K (at least as far as I know) so I'm skeptical about finding a good used one.
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1985 300SD 99K |
#5
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Hi,
My dad's W115 240D does this too jacked up both wheels off the road and when you put it in first and let it run on idle with the back wheels spinning this happens but as soon as you give it a little throttle it goes away, I'm pretty sure its not the CV's or the diff... I removed all that and was quite miserable to find there all ok so I had to put it back together and couldn't solve the problem, nothing is hitting scraping against or interfering in anyway with anything prop-shaft ect all moving fine with no signs or interference its kinda like almost a rumbling sound I also healed each wheel with a ratchet with the opposite one spinning to check if it was coming from that specific wheel but with each wheel healed in place and the opposite spinning the noise didn't stop...... It's hard to say if it was coming from the prop-shaft because I installed a different one and the noise continued......the huge clamping nut that clamps the small prop from the gear box to the larger one with the UV join is tightened well although the UV joint wasn't new I couldn't find any play in it...... I'll be removing the CV joints to install new boots so I could have a go at this problem too ![]() ![]() Jeremy |
#6
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Quote:
The U-Joint is staked in, and not held in with the C clips like most U-Joints. I just had mine replaced, cost $265. at South Bay Driveline in Jan Sose, Ca. there is a shop in Portland, Or. and one in Texas that is mentioned here on the Forum. their price range is $400. http://www.driveshafts.com/ http://driveshaftspecialist.com/Import%20html/Mercedes.html?gclid=CImkgrmfyqACFRNZbQodCEvJaw Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works Last edited by charmalu; 04-14-2010 at 10:34 PM. |
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