Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:23 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,159
Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
?????
The 1.3 L differential case houses a 210mm gear to take the higher torque loads that a V8 puts out.
The case that's in your car currently is a 1.1 L differential case and has a 185mm gear. It's a much weaker unit.

Combined with your manual trans and driving style, it seems you beat the crap out of your differential, hence the need for a stronger unit.



.
__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System


Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:26 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
The 1.3 L differential case houses a 210mm gear to take the higher torque loads that a V8 puts out.
The case that's in your car currently is a 1.1 L differential case and has a 185mm gear. It's a much weaker unit.

Combined with your manual trans and driving style, it seems you beat the crap out of your differential, hence the need for a stronger unit.

.
Ya but that won't mount without modifying the body and axles right? You're talking about second gen W126 diff? I have looked at doing it before. It's doable, but not high on my list of things to do.
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:33 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,159
Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Ya but that won't mount without modifying the body and axles right? You're talking about second gen W126 diff? I have looked at doing it before. It's doable, but not high on my list of things to do.
No I am talking about First Gen w126 or w116 or maybe 107 type differentials with no modification to the axles. You will not get it in the 2.88 flavor, but certainly you can find a 2.47, 2.65, 3.07 or 3.46.

.
__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System


Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-19-2010, 05:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Western MA
Posts: 107
Further Update:

Well, it seems that WhiskeyDan wins the prize. My Indy says it's the U-Joint. I'm not really sure where this leaves me, though.

Is there anyway to rebuild a U-Joint? This is not something I want to attempt, I'm just curious if it's possible and who would do it.
A new driveshaft is over $1K. I plan on keeping this car for a while but if a used shaft will suffice I would rather go that route for financial reasons.
What driveshafts will fit in an 85' 300SD? Would a later model 126 be the best bet or should I try and find a good example of the same model and year? Is it even possible to find a good used driveshaft? This car only has 100K (at least as far as I know) so I'm skeptical about finding a good used one.
__________________
1985 300SD 99K
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-21-2010, 09:56 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
Hi,
My dad's W115 240D does this too jacked up both wheels off the road and when you put it in first and let it run on idle with the back wheels spinning this happens but as soon as you give it a little throttle it goes away, I'm pretty sure its not the CV's or the diff... I removed all that and was quite miserable to find there all ok so I had to put it back together and couldn't solve the problem, nothing is hitting scraping against or interfering in anyway with anything prop-shaft ect all moving fine with no signs or interference its kinda like almost a rumbling sound I also healed each wheel with a ratchet with the opposite one spinning to check if it was coming from that specific wheel but with each wheel healed in place and the opposite spinning the noise didn't stop...... It's hard to say if it was coming from the prop-shaft because I installed a different one and the noise continued......the huge clamping nut that clamps the small prop from the gear box to the larger one with the UV join is tightened well although the UV joint wasn't new I couldn't find any play in it...... I'll be removing the CV joints to install new boots so I could have a go at this problem too ( and I guess I'll make a small video....I've got this easy method to install OEM CV boots with no stretching, boiling or cutting ect... no one wants to believe me or try it so I guess I'll just make a video and prove it works fine and is easy so ppl can use this method for proper OEM's!!!! )

Jeremy
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-21-2010, 12:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,680
Quote:
Originally Posted by BHutch View Post
Well, it seems that WhiskeyDan wins the prize. My Indy says it's the U-Joint. I'm not really sure where this leaves me, though.

Is there anyway to rebuild a U-Joint? This is not something I want to attempt, I'm just curious if it's possible and who would do it.
A new driveshaft is over $1K. I plan on keeping this car for a while but if a used shaft will suffice I would rather go that route for financial reasons.
What driveshafts will fit in an 85' 300SD? Would a later model 126 be the best bet or should I try and find a good example of the same model and year? Is it even possible to find a good used driveshaft? This car only has 100K (at least as far as I know) so I'm skeptical about finding a good used one.
You or your mechanic won`t be able to replace the U-Joint on a MB. It had to be replaced at a driveline shop that has the set up to work on these.
The U-Joint is staked in, and not held in with the C clips like most U-Joints.

I just had mine replaced, cost $265. at South Bay Driveline in Jan Sose, Ca.

there is a shop in Portland, Or. and one in Texas that is mentioned here on the Forum. their price range is $400.
http://www.driveshafts.com/

http://driveshaftspecialist.com/Import%20html/Mercedes.html?gclid=CImkgrmfyqACFRNZbQodCEvJaw


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Last edited by charmalu; 04-14-2010 at 10:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page