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#16
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Arggh, you're doing a heavy project Mr. Dean
I did this a few weeks ago and it wasn't that bad just time consuming. You'll want to jack the engine up under the oil pan with a healthy piece of wood (after unhooking the engine shocks and motor mounts), a large wrench to unbolt the cooler lines from the cooler, lots of penetrating oil, MAPP gas, and a pair of clothes you don't mind destroying. Be prepared to destroy the aluminum fittings on the cooler. The lower cooler bolt is a b!tch and will probably break. Friendly gents on this forum can hook you up with a nice used one for cheap. My advice is to get a small hand saw and saw the old rubber on the lines to split them apart. This way you can remove the cooler and attempt to remove the old cooler hose. Mr. Hefflin gave me some advice at Bill's GTG this past weekend by partially sawing into the nut and soaking with oil. I did this, but the lower bolt was pretty much done for when I finally got the fitting off. My second piece of advice is getting the cooler lines back in. Do the upper line first, bend the rubber hose back in on itself and push the hose and the metal end between the power steering hoses. Route the rubber to its general location. From there you are almost halfway done routing the lines. You'll have to pull and tug, but when I did my lines it wasn't that hard. I see you're from NE Ohio. I live in North East PA (near Erie and the NY border). If you truly get stuck send me a PM and I'll see if I can get out there to help you out. Edit 2: Here's Roy's super awesome oil cooler line thread issue page. Engine oil cooler and hose/line issue, link thread
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#17
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Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#18
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You know you're absolutely right, but I saw this post: Quote:
and assumed oil cooler lines for the actual engine oil Either way I just realized I need to replace the transmission cooler lines on my car too.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#19
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I am not sold on the Corteco branded mounts. They lasted only a year on my car before being totally flattened and torn. The Febi ones are better, as the lasted 2 years. I just changed them out this past weekend, this time using Lemforder.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Thanks for the advice gents, I was referring to oil cooler lines actually. I forgot to order the tranny ones. They're on the way but wont be a for a few days.
I'm hoping these Corteco mounts last a bit longer than a year. Right now I'm stuck with this heatshield being stuck. Any ideas?
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
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One of our Members said he used a Dremel type tool with those tiny Cutoff Wheels and cut a slots the length of the Oil Cooler Nuts (see pic).
Enough so that he was able to split the Nut and spread the Nut apart. If you cut through the Nut into the Threads on the Nipple a little it is not a big issue as the Oil Cooler Line dones not seal on the threads; it seals like the Hard Lines do on your Injectors. Brian Carlton posted his method of removing the Oil Cooler Line nuts also. I have read only of a repair proceedure for 1985 and older Oil Coolers. I have not seen one for the newer models. I would plan for the worst and review the Oil Cooler Nipple Repair thread. I believe there is 2 threads with pics. Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/ http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 08-03-2010 at 10:41 AM. |
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I'm actually not really concerned all that much about the oil cooler lines as I am the motor mounts.
Here what I'm looking at with this heat shield: I'm not sure its properly oriented right now. I can't get it to budge. I think its supposed to come off. I tried beating it repeatedly and all that does it mar up the surface. I got the outboard screw out. No clue how to even get to the inboard one.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k Last edited by whunter; 08-05-2010 at 12:35 PM. Reason: attached picture |
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It looks to me that your heat shield is mounted 180 degrees off. At least that is how they were on my engine. That may have something to do with it being so hard to get off.
Are you sure you have the engine raised enough to completely clear the arm to the mount (watch out for the throttle linkage and the fan shroud)? Try a long punch or screwdriver and tap around the center of the heat shield as close as you can get to the rounded part of the arm. It'll come off. I was able to get to the inner screw with a regular allen wrench from above. Be sure to clean out the hex recess first. There isn't much swing so it goes a little at a time. |
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Yeah, the engine is up. I got the passenger side mount out (which was in far better condition). This one is just a stubborn piece. I'll have to try and beat the crap out of it more. I sure hope that the M12 bolt isnt broken off in that arm. I hope it just fell out and not sheared.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#25
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Can someone post up a picture of the heat shields proper orientation? My other SD doesn't have one, and I got this one to rotate so I'll eventually be able to get to the inner bolt. Hopefully I can get the shield off and reshape it, then install it properly.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#26
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I'm coming a bit late to this thread, but I had a similar problem on my SD a few years ago... Not the heat shield, I never had one of those. but the transmission cooler lines failing because of ware from the mounts near the engine oil pan. My solution was to suspend the new cooler lines with zip-ties. A cheap low tech fix for the problem. and the zip-tie will fail before your transmission cooler line. but I never had the zip-tie fail... I just cut them about a month ago when starting my manual swap, and thought to my self... that getto rig lasted a long time.
just my $0.02 Good luck!
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#27
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[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman 1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang" [SIGPIC] 1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could) 1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford) 2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride) Gone: 1988 Toyota Pickup 2004 Subaru Outback 1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk. 1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P. 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT |
#28
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I swear I replied to this..apparently not.
Anyway, I got the two M8 screws out. Something tells me the M12 is still up there, this mount isnt coming out, just seems to be spinning in circles. I dont think I can jack the engine high enough to pull the mount down and deal with the bolt... This mount is so far beyond shot...lol UPDATE: Found the M12, intact it seems. The head was buried under a 2-3" column of rubber that was coming out of the hole. However I think the M12 is now stuck in the motor mount/heat shield. It wiggles too much (side to side) to be still inside the arm....sooo close.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k Last edited by JamesDean; 08-03-2010 at 03:02 PM. |
#29
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Answer
Quote:
You will have no issue removing the engine mount on a work bench. |
#30
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I thought about this, but the bolts didn't seem to be that accessible. I also thought this would make running the oil cooler lines much much easier.
If I can get this M12 out..I should be alright. I'll post up pics of this poor poor motor mount.
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
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