Is this bad? [617 Motor Mounts/Leak] - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tbomachines · #31 08-03-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Remove the aluminum engine support arm.
You will have no issue removing the engine mount on a work bench.

Are you referring to the crossmember? I have a similar problem at the moment...in the middle of taking the engine out and the only thing stopping me is the darn M12 bolt, someone before me tried to take it out and stripped it. I didn't want to touch the crossmember since it supports at least one suspension component (LCA? memory not working).

JamesDean · #32 08-03-2010, 07:08 PM

No, I believe he is referring to the arm that comes off the engine and sits down onto the motor mount.

As for your situation, you could try the same thing...unbolt the support arm and take the engine out that way you could deal with the shoddy M12 with more space.

whunter · #33 08-03-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

Are you referring to the crossmember? I have a similar problem at the moment...in the middle of taking the engine out and the only thing stopping me is the darn M12 bolt, someone before me tried to take it out and stripped it. I didn't want to touch the crossmember since it supports at least one suspension component (LCA? memory not working).

The cross-member is welded to the body...

The silver (aluminum) arm bolted to the engine block, going to the engine mount.

Removal of the engine support arm is not difficult, and the M12 bolt comes out with it..
Note: it also makes engine oil cooler line removal/install easy.

tbomachines · #34 08-03-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

No, I believe he is referring to the arm that comes off the engine and sits down onto the motor mount.

As for your situation, you could try the same thing...unbolt the support arm and take the engine out that way you could deal with the shoddy M12 with more space.

Ah that makes much more sense than taking a sawsall to a load-bearing crossmember. I didn't realize that the bolt on the block was accessible, guess I will have to look harder tomorrow morning when I get out to lift it out--should make the job MUCH easier. Thanks!

JamesDean · #35 08-03-2010, 11:09 PM

Roy, is it easier to get them from up top or down below? I wasn't all that keen on doing that because I wasn't sure if I was gonna tackle the oil cooler lines or just throw them to my local shop. I was eying them oil filter housing connections wondering how I'd get a wrench down there...

tbomachines · #36 08-03-2010, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

The cross-member is welded to the body...

I was thinking a cutoff wheel or sawsall and was going to call out the obvious safety issue, but no worries--thanks for the clarification!

JamesDean · #37 08-04-2010, 09:38 PM

SUCCESS. Engine Mounts Installed.

My dad doesn't want me messing with the oil cooler lines, I dont have any tools that size other than a pipe wrench.

I still have to put the engine shocks on. I'm waiting for some of the rubber pieces from the dealer.

Passenger Next to Replacement:

Driver Side Next to Replacement:

Remains of Drivers:

Theres more rubber on the floor under my car too.

JamesDean · #38 08-06-2010, 07:37 PM

Is this the correct orientation for the heat shield?

I looked the one diagram and thats what I came up with.

Carpenterman · #39 08-06-2010, 10:34 PM

Your heat shield looks pretty mangled up. At any rate, I believe the long axis of the heat shield is perpendicular to the axis drawn between the mounting bolts. The "flip" of the shield should be to the rear. At least this is how I've always seen it.

I searched around and couldn't find a picture for you.

JamesDean · #40 09-28-2010, 06:15 PM

I took a look at my engine mounts today as I was checking oil and cleaning the windshield (damn you trees)

Do they still look good? (They'd better, they are only a little over a month old, under 500 miles on them)

http://imgur.com/mioyb.jpg
http://imgur.com/yMIz9.jpg
http://imgur.com/pOwj4.jpg