My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Squiggle Dog · #**121** 05-08-2011, 12:54 AM

I took drastic measures and got a really big jack and lifted up the car by the crossmember behind the engine oil pan with a wood block to support it.

It was tight! There was almost not enough room to slide the transmission under the car while on top of the jack, but I was able to tilt the transmission enough for it to slide under. I don't know if I was supposed to, but I greased the shaft that sticks out of the middle of the torque converter.

I had the front of the car so high in the air that I thought I crushed my muffler! The trunk pan was resting on it but luckily it didn't even dent it.

I was able to raise up the transmission to the engine but it was very wobbly on the jack and I felt uneasy. It took a lot of effort to keep if from falling off. I had to be very delicate to get the bolts started.

Once I had the bolts started I had to lift up the transmission to raise the engine to obtain clearance to access the torque converter bolts. The torque converter has to slide into the 3 notches in the flywheel for the transmission to seat against the engine and for the bolt holes to line up. I installed the transmission with the torque converter drain plug pointing down and the bump on the timing marks near the pulley pointer so that finding the drain plug is easy. I think this position is marked on the flex plate with white paint. The white paint on the flex plate indicates on which side the drain plug should be facing.

Squiggle Dog · #**122** 05-08-2011, 12:56 AM

Even though I started removing the transmission on Friday, I wasn't finished on Sunday, so I took Monday off from work in hopes that I would finish then. When Monday ended I had the driveshaft and transmission mount connected, the exhaust hooked back up, and the shift linkage and control pressure rod attached.

I work on an Air Force Base where I have to have a special pass for my vehicle, so on Tuesday I borrowed my roommate's station wagon and bicycle, drove the station wagon near the base and parked it, then rode the bicycle onto base to get to work. Haha.

When I got back I started working on the transmission cooler lines. I cleaned the outsides with biodiesel, rinsed, then blew out the insides with brake cleaner and then compressed air. I covered the ends with plastic bags held on with rubber bands to keep out dirt.

There are rubber spacers on the clamps that hold the lines in place. When the spacers fall out they allow the lines to vibrate and wear through. Eventually it will cause leaks. Spots that are nearly worn through can be filled with a metal repair putty.

After snaking the lines through I realized that they didn't fit. They appeared to have been bent out of shape at one time and were only put in place with force. It ended up taking all afternoon and evening to bend the lines to the correct shape. It was a very tedious process of trial-and-error. When I got them to fit I realized I had no idea where the clamps mounted because they were missing and I was using spares. It was obvious that there are two that attach on the bellhousing and I figured out that the left side one attaches to the oil pan, but I don't know where the other clamps are supposed to attach. I searched the internet and my factory service manuals for hours looking for pictures of where they attach, but I couldn't see any pictures of that area. I decided to skip over this part for now.

Squiggle Dog · #**123** 05-08-2011, 12:56 AM

Since I still didn't have the car done I drove the station wagon and rode the bicycle to work on Wednesday. When I got home I attached the new Contitech cooler hoses onto the lines. The new ones are nice because they have a spring around them to keep them from kinking.

I then moved on to installing the dipstick tube, but it was bent out of shape and it took almost the entire afternoon and evening to get to the correct shape. Then I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I made sure the dipstick was clean and put it in the tube and installed it. Then I found out that the threads for the dipstick tube bolt in the intake manifold were stripped out! Or maybe it was just the bolt... There was enough grab to install it, just not to get it tight.

Having cleaned all fitting surfaces with fine sandpaper and installing new aluminum sealing rings, I decided I would add one quart of fluid to the transmission to see if I had any leaks. I couldn't see any leaks so I put in four quarts of Red Line Synthetic D4 ATF and 24 ounces of Trans-X.

I then lowered the car, reconnected the throttle linkage, attached the pressure control rod, and installed the air cleaner. I started the engine but I noticed that the fuel, temperature gauges, turn signals, and brake lights weren't working. I checked the fuse box and saw that the number 4 fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I looked all over the engine compartment looking for something I may have disconnected or installed improperly. I knew that the transmission wires were all in the correct spot. I thought that maybe I had used too much dielectric grease on the neutral safety switch. It was about 10 PM, so I cleaned up and went to sleep, disappointed that I was so close but now had an electrical problem.

I had the same transportation arrangements on Thursday. When I got home from work I disconnected all of the transmission wiring and replaced the number 4 fuse. My gauges, turn signals, and brake lights were working. I then connected the neutral safety switch. That didn't blow the fuse. Then I attached what I think is the reverse light switch. That didn't blow the fuse, either. Then when I attached the kickdown solenoid it blew the fuse! I checked to see if the wire was grounding on anything, but it wasn't. I took the gear selector out of park and it still blew the fuse.

I figured that the solenoid itself must be bad since the plastic cover was cracked and water must have gotten in there when I was washing the transmission. Oops. I was a bit upset since I feared transmission fluid would come gushing out if I changed it and I didn't have any new sealing rings for installing it. I removed the solenoid from the original transmission (which I knew to work) and then removed the one from the replacement transmission. I had to use an adjustable wrench using very small turns to get at it. When the switch came out fluid ran out so I had to plug it with the solenoid screw. I had some spare rubber sealing rings that I used and one of the aluminum sealing rings was in good condition so I reused it. When I installed the solenoid it didn't leak. I connected the wire and it didn't blow the fuse! I was very happy that I solved that problem.

I ran the engine and checked the transmission fluid level, wiping the stick with my fingers so as to not get lint on it. I filled it with ATF using a clean funnel until I could see the fluid about 30mm below the minimum line. I then drove the car around to get it to operating temperature. When I got back to the driveway I added ATF until it was 3/4 between the minimum and maximum lines.

On Friday I drove my 300SD to work. It was very refreshing to be able to drive off after starting the car instead of having to wait for 5-10 minutes before I could drive it. The engine was revving far too high before shifting and it was flaring between gears. This morning I adjusted out the control pressure rod and test drove until I got the shifts at ideal points. I then popped off the vacuum modulator cap, pulled out the pin, rotated clockwise, test drove, then repeated until I got the shifts as firm as I liked them. It shifts firm like a manual transmission, but not harshly. When I was test driving I had to pull out quickly into traffic and I peeled out up to about 20 MPH!

The replacement transmission works great and I am very happy with it. What's more, is I have seen no leaks from it. When I get paid I am going to purchase OEM flex discs, a transmission mount, and some other things to install. I plan on making a 2,000 mile trip to Utah and back next month like I did in my 1968 200D fintail, so I am trying to get this car as roadworthy as that one.

I suppose it was worth getting sore, oily, drenched from the rain storms, and the approximately 70 hours it took to complete! But seriously, unless you are poor like me, just pay a shop to do it. I still have to figure out where the transmission cooler line clamps attach on the engine so the lines don't vibrate against the block.

leathermang · #**124** 05-08-2011, 01:08 AM

I feel better seeing how long your project took compared to what you expected....
I hated feeling I was the only one who got into projects and they took 3, 6 or 20 times as long as I was expecting.....
It is good you caught those rub spots on those metal lines... never a good time for those to blow...

Stretch · #**125** 05-08-2011, 02:46 AM

Good job! Don't they sell larger volumes of ATF where you live? Those little bottles cost almost twice as much (for the volume you need) as the larger ones.

Squiggle Dog · #**126** 05-08-2011, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

I feel better seeing how long your project took compared to what you expected....
I hated feeling I was the only one who got into projects and they took 3, 6 or 20 times as long as I was expecting.....
It is good you caught those rub spots on those metal lines... never a good time for those to blow...

Sometimes I can get things done quickly, but there are times when it seems that a 5 minute job takes 6 hours. There are several factors that seem to make jobs difficult, such as weather, having to go from the back yard to the front for tools, losing parts, losing tools, unexpected surprises...

I thought for sure that I could do that swap in a weekend, but it was one of those things where each part of the job took so long. Near the end of the week I felt like I was going to go crazy. I am the type of person that needs 10-12 hours of sleep to function, but I was out working on the car until 11 PM, only to not finish and still had to get up early for work. I'm glad it's done.

Squiggle Dog · #**127** 05-08-2011, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Good job! Don't they sell larger volumes of ATF where you live? Those little bottles cost almost twice as much (for the volume you need) as the larger ones.

They might. I haven't looked to see if they carry larger bottles since I saw these locally and needed them right away. I use Amsoil in the engine and I imagine that they sell ATF in large bottles.

Carpenterman · #**128** 05-09-2011, 12:26 PM

Epic job and description, Squiggie!

Chris W. · #**129** 05-09-2011, 02:06 PM

I bow in your general direction. Your perseverance and energy are to be admired. Fantastic job!

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 340K

gatorblue92 · #**130** 05-09-2011, 02:22 PM

this is going to be a very nice W116 when its done... i love the work you did changing the door panels

Squiggle Dog · #**131** 05-19-2011, 10:28 PM

My last 300SD gave a turbo whistle upon accelerating, which I thought was normal. It was a fast car, too. My current 300SD was sluggish when I purchased it and I immediately noticed that I couldn't hear the turbo. This lead me to believe that the turbo was dead. After doing routine filter and fluid changes, adjusting valves, and backing the ALDA off completely I got a lot more power out of the vehicle.

I was still unhappy with the fact that I couldn't hear the turbo and I wanted to know if it was working. Today I removed the exhaust and drove the car. Wow, my turbo works for sure! I could hear it spool up and hear the waste gate open. I was turning heads and got a smile from a guy with a Ford Powerstroke. The engine was louder, but it wasn't annoying at all, it actually sounded good, like a big truck.

When I removed the exhaust I had to remove the flex pipe that goes between the turbo and the exhaust. There was a pipe inside of the flex pipe. Out of curiosity I did not put this pipe back in when I installed the flex pipe.

I drove the car again, and though the engine was back to being quiet as before I removed the exhaust, I could now hear the turbo with the exhaust attached! It's not as loud as without exhaust, but the engine is quiet and the turbo is audible over the engine when accelerating, just like my last 300SD. It sounds like a jet and I love it!

Now that I think of it, my last 300SD had no exhaust when I purchased it. Someone local gave me a used exhaust system but it did not have that pipe that fits inside the flex pipe. So, there you go. If you want to hear your turbo, remove the pipe inside the flex pipe.

I was tempted to make some holes in the flex pipe to allow more sound to come out, but I don't want the engine compartment filling up with smoke and soot. Though, I wonder if I could sleeve one so that it's open and allows the sound to escape while routing the exhaust down the pipe. In any case my exhaust is sealed.

I am considering having a custom exhaust downpipe made out of thinner metal that will transfer sound so that the turbo noise can come through it. I may remove the muffler while retaining the resonator if that will help make the turbo louder. The engine is loud enough for me; I just want turbo noise.

This was totally worth the hour spent removing the inner pipe. Imma firin' mah turbo! WOOO WOOO!

Below are some pictures of the pipe on a spare engine I have. I was tempted to use the damaged flex pipe in the last picture to get more sound out, but then I don't want the exhaust escaping, either.

Squiggle Dog · #**132** 05-27-2011, 11:25 PM

Last weekend I decided to install the new wooden instrument panel cover that I purchased from Germany. You'll remember that the manufacturer forgot to add the hole for the clock knob, forcing me to drill it myself. I measured the shaft of the clock knob with calipers and found it to be the metric equivalent of slightly larger than 1/4". I purchased a 1/4" brad point drill bit which is meant to give clean cuts in wood for dowels.

I used a piece of scrap wood trim to practice on. Before drilling I laid a piece of masking tape over the finished side of the wood. Drilling from the front, the bit grabbed the lacquer and chipped it. Drilling from the front with the bit spinning in reverse cut through the lacquer without chipping it, but it left the edges rough. Drilling from the backside with the finished surface of the wood pressed against another piece of wood caused the lacquer to chip. Drilling from the backside, then reversing the rotation of the drill once I got near the lacquer made a perfect cut (hole on the far left).

Feeling confident that I could drill the hole, I placed a piece of masking tape over the area where the hole needed to be cut.

The area where the hole needed to be drilled is concave, so it was difficult to find a place on the wooden block to rest it.

I drilled from the backside but got distracted and forgot to reverse the direction of the drill bit when I reached the lacquer. I could feel a cracking sound when the bit went through. I turned over the wooden cover, removed the masking tape, and found that the lacquer had chipped! Then to top it off, when I was using the 1/4" rotary tool bit to make the hole slightly larger for the clock knob, the bit slipped out of the hole and gouged the lacquer!

Squiggle Dog · #**133** 05-27-2011, 11:26 PM

Fortunately, I had already purchased Polycrylic lacquer for sealing the insides of the hole.

With a fine brush, I added the lacquer to the blemished areas. It took several applications, waiting two hours and sanding with 800 grit sandpaper between each coat.

While the lacquer was drying I decided I would do something else productive. I need to get rid of the green coolant and I have a metal coolant reservoir that I had removed from a 6.9 to replace the plastic one in my car. The paint looked bad so I removed it with paint stripper. I then took steel wool to clean up the hose fittings. I noticed that this made them very shiny! The reservoir is made of brass, which looks great when polished. I had a little bit of aluminum polish and steel wool, so I polished it up, then waxed. I am very happy with the results!

Lacquer tends to shrink and if it is applied too heavily it will pull away at the edges and tends to fall out. It was quite time-consuming and difficult to apply. When the edges would pull away I would have to take small amounts of lacquer and let it seep into the cracks. Sanding had to be done delicately or it would lift the filled edges and I would be back to filling with more lacquer. Once the surface was level I sanded the area with 1500 grit sandpaper.

Squiggle Dog · #**134** 05-27-2011, 11:27 PM

After all of the sanding marks were gone I was left with a matte surface. I used rubbing compound over this area and polished until the surface was smooth.

Next I used Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish over the entire piece. This made it very glossy and removed the surface imperfections. After the polish I used Meguiar's Gold Class Wax. The damage from the rotary bit is no longer visible and the chipped area is almost invisible.

The clock knob fits through with precision and almost no play.

I felt much better once the piece was repaired. I shouldn't have had to drill the hole, especially since it is there in the seller's display photos. This was my first time working with wood and lacquers.

I had another nasty surprise along the way. As can be expected, there really aren't any dress-up items made for the W116 chassis--however, this sedan shares some parts with the R107 and W123, so sometimes they interchange. This wooden instrument panel cover is actually for a R107 chassis, not a W116 chassis. I found that the mounting rods were much too long to accept the threaded extensions from the W116 cover.

Squiggle Dog · #**135** 05-27-2011, 11:28 PM

I had to use a steel ruler and very precisely cut down the plastic rods to the size of the ones from the original cover. I then drilled a hole through the center of each and threaded in the mounting rods.

I cleaned the instrumentation. I had a spare instrument cluster with a new dash light dimmer that I installed. I also repaired the odometer. The pot metal gear was slipping on its shaft. I wasn't able to remove the shaft because the end was crimped, so I tapped the shaft out a couple of millimeters, which caused the pot metal gear to wedge itself tightly onto the shaft, thus fixing the slipping gear and restoring the function of the odometer. I installed the assembled instrument cluster so that I could get to work the next day.

After work the next day I removed the instrument cluster with the battery still hooked up. I had the ignition switch off and didn't think there would be any electricity reaching the cluster. I was wrong and the cluster started to smoke. I took apart the cluster and found that the conductor strip between the temperature and oil gauge had melted. This was very disheartening because it had the new dash light dimmer, which is soldered to the piece and I am no electrician (though working on this car is teaching me to be a master of all trades). Some day I will repair it. I ended up using the original gauge piece, removing the broken dimmer and splicing the two dimmer wires together, thus bypassing it.

I found a set of Pioneer speakers in a 300SD at the wrecking yard for $1.50 each. They fit in the openings okay, though one of the tabs needed to be trimmed off and someone removed the tabs on the speaker covers, which may have been in the way, so I can't guarantee these are a perfect fit, but they sound nice for the price!

Here is the model number of the speakers if anyone is interested (Pioneer TS-G4641R).

I ordered a new dashboard cover, so with the instrument panel installed and the dash cleaned up I cut and pasted the Velcro mounting strips.