While waiting for parts to replace the B2 Piston on my Transmission I decied to pull out the Drive Shaft and inspect the Support and Flex discs.

I found that the U-joint does not Flex smoothly through the full range of motion.
I have been advised that this is due to it wearing in one spot because it does not have to flex much.

When I looked for parts (another Russian EPC type site) I fond no U-joint listed as a part.

After cleaning the Joint more I found that the Bearing Caps are Staked in place instead of using a retaining clip.

Is there any one who has changed this U-Joint and if so where did you get the new U-Joint?

Red Arrows point to a few of the Stakes that retain the Bearing Caps.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I didn't know the answer so I did a quick search and got some bad news:-

Tools and procedure to replace U Joint on Prop Shafts

It seems like they are not really meant to be messed with.

Not that that should stop you of course!

But all the same perhaps it would be wise to sort out a replacement propshaft (crazy I know) before you take it apart?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Fairmont? Fairlane? Do a search; it can be done with the right tools (dremmel/grinder/patience/balls of steel), but they are meant to be non-servicable, and replacement of the shaft is the correct way.

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1989 300E 144K

the driveshaft shop was able to free mine up when they shortened the front. there is still hope to not spend a ton of money

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

From what I was told by my MB indy mechanic, the U-joint is not supposed to flex in a free range of motion and when it is on the car, the drive shaft is almost completely straight and the U-joint does not hardly flex at all.

There are companies which will sell you a completely rebuilt drive shaft, balanced correctly with the support bearing installed but they are not cheap, $350 and up with a core charge. They will even use a U-joint with grease zerks if you wish.

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"Life is tough...it's even tougher if you're stupid." John Wayne


Dave
Pawleys Island, SC

'79 300CD

There are driveshaft/driveline shops that cut off the ends containing the non-replaceable 'U' joint, weld on ends with a clip-retained replaceable joint, then re-balance the shaft. I had it done year ago for my '72 W114 250. Not cheap, but cheaper than a new driveshaft.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Have a driveshaft shop change it out if you feel it needs to be done. Driveline Service of Atlanta on Jonesboro Rd is the one I use.

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Jim

Boy, thanks for the fast responses.
I do have a Dremel Type Tool and can grind off the staked areas. It may be worth while if only to re-grease it.

I was most interested to see if someone knew what U-joint to replace it with.

I happened to have kept an the Old Ball Joint I removed from my Diesel Volvo. It appears that the Bearing Caps are the same size. I do not know if the Yoke has the same dimensions or not.

I am off to see if I can find the threads by "Fairmont? Fairlane?".

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It was a long time ago (maybe 2004 or 2005) someone had a pretty detailed posting about how he used U-joint from a Ford car (I'm thinking early 80's) that was a match. It was a Fairlane or Fairmont. I can't remember which.

Ford Falcon

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1989 300E 144K

http://driveshafts.com/pages/mercedes.html

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

FryBird said the below in his post:
I am replacing my drive shaft U joint, 300D turbo, W123, I have ground off the stakes, pressed/removed the old joint, now need to find the replacement to install.
I think some one said a one from an old Ford Falcon ?
anybody know the correct application to install ?
it seems to be like a cap width ~ 24mm = ~ 15/16"
and a length of ~ 73mm = ~ 2 & 7/8"

So there is a U-Joint available that will fit. That is valuable to know before I start.
The Cap on mine also appears to be 24mm as does the old one from my Volvo.
This is the thread I found:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=124491&highlight=U-joint

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think I found a thread that gave me enough info that there is a U-joint out there somewhere that I can replace it with.
I will be conservative and knock out one of the Bearing Caps so I can get the dimensions of the Joint.
After that I get to go shopping.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So would you re-stake it to keep it in place, or try to retrofit a retaining clip?



.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Yes, I will re-stake it but not to the extent the Factory did.(I already have removed 2 of the Bearing Caps.)

I do not see how I could cut a groove for a Retaining Ring. I also would not know how much metal could be removed without disturbing the balance.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The thing that you have to get right is "centering" the u-joint. Keep in mind that if you have a driveshaft shop do this job they will center it and balance it.

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Jim