Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #1 02-24-2011, 12:37 AM

The next issue was how far to drive the Bearing Caps into the U-Joint and at the same time centering them.
Below is what I did. But, I have found some new information which will be in Blue.
Both of the Yokes on mine are 3.111” wide and with the Bearing Caps slightly compressed on the U-joint I got 2.982.
3.111-2.982= 0.129 is the difference in the U-joint installed length and the width of the yoke. 0.129/2= 0.0645 I divided that in half to get the approximate depth the Bearing Caps needed to be pushed in. Since I thought I would be using a ruler to measure I picked the closest fractional measurement (1/16 = 0.0625).
New information 3/4/11:
I was able to access info that my Computer would not open on another computer and the specs for the GMB U-joint 220-7284 are a bearing cap Diameter = 0.945" and the Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends = 2.929" (I assume this is the installed length).
I installed my caps at about 2.986" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends not the GMB spec of 2.929" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends.
This means my Caps need to be squeezed in more.

What I figured out from my calculations is that each Bearing Cap needed to be moved in approximately 1/16”.
To accomplish this I found a 1/16” thick washer that was close to 24mm outside diameter and I tapped that washer (so it would stay put) over the Bearing Cap and squeezed the Yoke in the Vice; pushing the Bearing Cap in 1/16” further.
I repeated the same with the other Bearing Caps.

What is left is to stake in the Bearing Caps without moving them.
I will try to use a really sharp Punch and will post the pics on that tomarrow.

DeliveryValve · #2 02-24-2011, 12:53 AM

Nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing the results of your labor.... And hopefully it turns out well.

.

Stretch · #3 02-24-2011, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

Nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing the results of your labor.... And hopefully it turns out well.

.

Indeed - we're all interested in seeing / hearing about your results.

vtmbz · #4 02-24-2011, 07:39 AM

I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.

Stretch · #5 02-24-2011, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtmbz

I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.

Hey don't worry he's an inventive guy - it'll all work out.

Diesel911 · #6 02-24-2011, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtmbz

I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.

Some where in the Thread before I posted all of the pictures others posted they have done the job before.
Another reason is that even if I failed someone else can use the info to succeed.

The hard part was finding the New U-joint.

Diesel911 · #7 10-04-2012, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The next issue was how far to drive the Bearing Caps into the U-Joint and at the same time centering them.
Below is what I did. But, I have found some new information which will be in Blue.
Both of the Yokes on mine are 3.111” wide and with the Bearing Caps slightly compressed on the U-joint I got 2.982.
3.111-2.982= 0.129 is the difference in the U-joint installed length and the width of the yoke. 0.129/2= 0.0645 I divided that in half to get the approximate depth the Bearing Caps needed to be pushed in. Since I thought I would be using a ruler to measure I picked the closest fractional measurement (1/16 = 0.0625).
New information 3/4/11:
I was able to access info that my Computer would not open on another computer and the specs for the GMB U-joint 220-7284 are a bearing cap Diameter = 0.945" and the Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends = 2.929" (I assume this is the installed length).
I installed my caps at about 2.986" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends not the GMB spec of 2.929" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends.
This means my Caps need to be squeezed in more.

What I figured out from my calculations is that each Bearing Cap needed to be moved in approximately 1/16”.
To accomplish this I found a 1/16” thick washer that was close to 24mm outside diameter and I tapped that washer (so it would stay put) over the Bearing Cap and squeezed the Yoke in the Vice; pushing the Bearing Cap in 1/16” further.
I repeated the same with the other Bearing Caps.

What is left is to stake in the Bearing Caps without moving them.
I will try to use a really sharp Punch and will post the pics on that tomarrow.

What ever U-joint you get you need to find out how what the Bearing Cap Spacing is for the particular U-joint you are using.
In My case I eveutually found the spacing on the internet; don't remember where.

layback40 · #8 02-24-2011, 09:34 AM

I am sitting here with my fingers crossed hoping the staking works & doesnt move the cups.
Its interesting to see that the cups are spaced equally when you look at the old stake marks. This adds to the cautious optimism.
Good Luck !!

Diesel911 · #9 02-24-2011, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

I am sitting here with my fingers crossed hoping the staking works & doesnt move the cups.
Its interesting to see that the cups are spaced equally when you look at the old stake marks. This adds to the cautious optimism.
Good Luck !!

An Aussie company; Hardy Spicer lists a U-joint Staked Mercedes, K5-A657
http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/driveline_products.asp

layback40 · #10 02-24-2011, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

An Aussie company; Hardy Spicer lists a U-joint Staked Mercedes, K5-A657
http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/driveline_products.asp

I could probably have picked one up in town & sent it to you. Hardy Spicer stuff is very common around here. I should check the spares we have here for some ag machinery, if its a standard Hardy size.

vstech · #11 02-24-2011, 11:12 AM

I'd just take the yoke to a machine shop and have them cut in a circlip groove.

Diesel911 · #12 02-24-2011, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'd just take the yoke to a machine shop and have them cut in a circlip groove.

Go for it.

I am trying to do the job myself and do not plan on rebalancing the Shaft unless I have some awful problem.

For Me that means the less Metal I remove the less chance there will be a balance issue.

Stevo · #13 02-24-2011, 01:28 PM

I just ordered a couple of U joints from 911's recommended place ($64.40 for two). I noticed a "detente" when I did my TD ctr support bearing. I am anxiously awaiting the final out come here.

Diesel911 · #14 02-24-2011, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

I just ordered a couple of U joints from 911's recommended place ($64.40 for two). I noticed a "detente" when I did my TD ctr support bearing. I am anxiously awaiting the final out come here.

Looks like I made a mistake in my PM to you.
Please send some photos of the Joint and part numbers.