Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:02 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
Replacing the U-joint on a 123 Drive Shaft

Replacing the U-joint on a 123 Drive Shaft

A quick re-cap:
In the first pic I am holding my U-joint and you can see it will not easily flex.

In the next pic you see the Stake Marks where the Metal is crimped/punched onto the Bearing Caps to keep them from coming out.

Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz00.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz0.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:19 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
Grinding out the Staked

Grinding out the Stakes.
Clean up the Drive Shaft especially around the bores where the U-joint Bearings are staked in place.
Take a Center Punch or other suitable Tool and Match Mark the 1 halves of the U-Joint so that they will go back into the same place.

On the side you start grinding on take a socket and knock the Bearing Cap towards the Center of the U- joint so it is moved away from the Staked Marks.

For the actual grinding I first used a Harbor Freight Dremel type Tool with cutting wheel on it. That worked fine.
However, since everyone does not have a Dremel tool I tried a small Grinding Stone on a Drill Motor. It also worked fine until the Stone became rounded. Once it is rounded it will not reach the whole bent over metal staked area.
So if you use a Stone Grinding Wheel you may need to use several wheels.

If you look at the bottom of the last pic you see the area where the Stake Marks have been ground off flush with the Bearing Cap bore.

After that go to the opposite side and do the same as the above.
Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz1.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz2.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz3.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz4.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz5.jpg  

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:26 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
On one of the sides you just finished grinding take a Socket or Punch and drive the Bearing Cap towards the center but not far enough so that the U-jont hit’s the opposite side (you don’t want any dents there).

That should leave one bearing cap sticking out enough to grab in a Vice or with a Vice Grips so that you can work it out. If you did not grind off the Staked area well you will have a hard time pulling the Bearing out.

After one Bearing Cap is out you should be able to remove one of the Yokes from the U-joint and be ready to start grinding on the other Yoke.
Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz7.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz8.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:31 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
After both Yokes are free of each other and the Bearing Caps are knocked out of them clean them good and go in with a Jewelers’ File or Wet-Dry sand Paper and make sure all of the Staked areas are flush with the rest of the Bore. If you do not do that you could damage the new Bearing Cap as well as making it harder to install.

After you have removed any protruding metal polish the is side of the bore with 400 grit Wet-Dry Paper.

You need to decide if you want to do something different with the new Bearing Caps or not. In my case I removed the original Grease with a Q-tip and re-greased it with Wheel Bearing Grease. If you do that careful not to loosen any of the Needle Rollers inside of the bearing.
I use 3&1 Oil on the U-joint Bearing Bores and on the outside of the Bearing Caps. I

inserted one Bearing Cap and tapped it in just enough so that it was in the bore firmly with a Plastic Mallet.
I installed the U-joint Cross Piece into that Bearing and I padded the opposite side of the Cross with Tape so that it would not ding up the opposite side Bearing Bore.

I used the Vice to squeeze the Bearing in flush with the Yoke surface. I removed the Tape from the opposite side and tapped a Bearing Cap in place. Ounce the Cap is in place I slid the U-joint Cross Piece into that Bearing Cap. You want the U-joint Cross piece to be partially in both Bearing Caps so that when the other Bearing is squeezed in the Cross Piece is lined up with Both Caps. If you do not do that you rise denting one of the Bearing Caps.
(I found it easier to install the Driveshaft Support Bearing and Support on the small part of the Drive Shaft before installing the U-joint into it.)

So one Yoke is done. The next Yoke will be a repeat of the first one; but, this time you need to line up your Match Marks so that the other Yoke is in the same position it was removed from. If you do not do that there is a big chance of the balance being off.
Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz9.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:37 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
The next issue was how far to drive the Bearing Caps into the U-Joint and at the same time centering them.
Below is what I did. But, I have found some new information which will be in Blue.
Both of the Yokes on mine are 3.111” wide and with the Bearing Caps slightly compressed on the U-joint I got 2.982.
3.111-2.982= 0.129 is the difference in the U-joint installed length and the width of the yoke. 0.129/2= 0.0645 I divided that in half to get the approximate depth the Bearing Caps needed to be pushed in. Since I thought I would be using a ruler to measure I picked the closest fractional measurement (1/16 = 0.0625).
New information 3/4/11:
I was able to access info that my Computer would not open on another computer and the specs for the GMB U-joint 220-7284 are a bearing cap Diameter = 0.945" and the Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends = 2.929" (I assume this is the installed length).
I installed my caps at about 2.986" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends not the GMB spec of 2.929" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends.
This means my Caps need to be squeezed in more.


What I figured out from my calculations is that each Bearing Cap needed to be moved in approximately 1/16”.
To accomplish this I found a 1/16” thick washer that was close to 24mm outside diameter and I tapped that washer (so it would stay put) over the Bearing Cap and squeezed the Yoke in the Vice; pushing the Bearing Cap in 1/16” further.
I repeated the same with the other Bearing Caps.

What is left is to stake in the Bearing Caps without moving them.
I will try to use a really sharp Punch and will post the pics on that tomarrow.
Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz10.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz11.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 03-04-2011 at 02:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 02-24-2011, 12:53 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,159
Nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing the results of your labor.... And hopefully it turns out well.


.
__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System


Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 02-24-2011, 03:36 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing the results of your labor.... And hopefully it turns out well.


.
Indeed - we're all interested in seeing / hearing about your results.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 02-24-2011, 07:39 AM
1985 190d
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: canadian border vermont
Posts: 518
I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:24 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtmbz View Post
I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.
Hey don't worry he's an inventive guy - it'll all work out.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:34 AM
layback40's Avatar
Not Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
I am sitting here with my fingers crossed hoping the staking works & doesnt move the cups.
Its interesting to see that the cups are spaced equally when you look at the old stake marks. This adds to the cautious optimism.
Good Luck !!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:11 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
I am sitting here with my fingers crossed hoping the staking works & doesnt move the cups.
Its interesting to see that the cups are spaced equally when you look at the old stake marks. This adds to the cautious optimism.
Good Luck !!
An Aussie company; Hardy Spicer lists a U-joint Staked Mercedes, K5-A657
http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/driveline_products.asp
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 02-24-2011 at 10:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:16 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtmbz View Post
I've got to say this: You are a high flyer to start posting the pictures before you know how it came out!!!! I would have waited until I drove down the road, but thats just me! Thanks for breaking trail on this.
Some where in the Thread before I posted all of the pictures others posted they have done the job before.
Another reason is that even if I failed someone else can use the info to succeed.

The hard part was finding the New U-joint.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:33 AM
layback40's Avatar
Not Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
An Aussie company; Hardy Spicer lists a U-joint Staked Mercedes, K5-A657
http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/driveline_products.asp
I could probably have picked one up in town & sent it to you. Hardy Spicer stuff is very common around here. I should check the spares we have here for some ag machinery, if its a standard Hardy size.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 02-24-2011, 11:12 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,832
I'd just take the yoke to a machine shop and have them cut in a circlip groove.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 02-24-2011, 01:20 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 50,968
For better or worse the staking is done.

I tried the job with the smaller Hammer and found it is OK to use the smaller Hammer just to get you started so you Punch will not skid out of position. But the heavey Hammer was better to move the metal more surely.
You can follow up with the small Hammer to fine tune it.

I though that the first Punch I tried would be OK but the point kept getting mushed over. I had to grind a more pointed point on one of my Punches that I knew was harder. After that I had no issues with the point mushing over.

I had an unaticipated problem. When I hit the Punch the Bearing Cap would sometimes rise up a little. After each hit of the Hammer I had to measure to see if the Cap raised up and use another Punch to tap it back down when it did.

The actual stake markes did not photograph well. Looking at the photos it looks like they are not touching the Cap; but they do.

I am going to use it the way it is now; and least I am sure the Bearing Caps are not going to Fling out.

So I am done with installing the U-joint.

I am looking forward to someone else doing the job and adding their experience and methods.

Updated 01/27/2011
Finished up installing the Drive Shaft and took it out for at test drive. I took it out for a test drive up to 75 mph (in a max speed limit 55 mph zone) and had no unusual vibration.
So as far as I am concerned I am done.
Only time will tell if the repair will last.
Attached Thumbnails
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz15.jpg   Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?-zzzzzzzzzz16.jpg  

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 02-27-2011 at 07:17 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page