Go for it.

I am trying to do the job myself and do not plan on rebalancing the Shaft unless I have some awful problem.

For Me that means the less Metal I remove the less chance there will be a balance issue.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just ordered a couple of U joints from 911's recommended place ($64.40 for two). I noticed a "detente" when I did my TD ctr support bearing. I am anxiously awaiting the final out come here.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Looks like I made a mistake in my PM to you.
Please send some photos of the Joint and part numbers.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm sorry sending photos of a joint are not legal in Washington state

GKN LOEBRO_222537031_S GKN LOEBRO Driveshaft U-Joint
I went to that site, plugged in the P/N, 10 left, 24.45 ea.
What mistake, wrong P/N

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

No part number mistake it is just that I did not buy my U-joint there. The Place I bought cost less and I got free UPS shipping of you bought over $50.
I did recommed that the Guy with the W201 go there and see if they had a U-jont for his vehicle but I also recommend that ounce he found the part number he use it to see if he could cross reference it at his favorite parts place.

Well, when you get the U-joints post the info. I bought a GMB U-joint. Your oder info indicates you should get a U-joing made by GKN.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I probably wont be installing it in the near future but considering the options I thought it would be good to have the alternative on hand. It would be interesting too know if a slight "detente" is a big deal. I can't say that I've noticed that in other MB DSs I've had apart. Anyway thanks for posting your work and the tip on the whereabouts of the U joints. I accidentally separated a DS once (unmarked) and had to get another. Luckly a freind had one that I got cheap.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I do not know if the Detent issue will cause any problem or not. The job started off as a B2 Piston replacement. While I was waiting for the B2 related parts I decided to pull the Drive Shaft (the Transmission end was already removed to slide back the Drive shaft in order for the trans to hang down further).
I discovered my Drive Shaft Support was cracking and the Bearing had a ever so slight rough spot. So I decide to change those.
Then I discovered the U-joint issue and decided that If I did not fix the U-joint it might stress the new Drive Shaft Support.

So one thing lead to another.
It could be that the detent issue would not have caused a problem (I had vibration issues before).

Now I have to find or make a 46mm wrench or the similar SAE size as the Wrench I loosend the Drive Shaft Collar Nut is not suitable for tightening it.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I've been contemplating of welding one up from scrap steel. Those 46 wrenches are expensive.



.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I spent around $500 dollars or more redoing my driveline the first time like you guys are doing now.
I put a spicer #051 in it and balanced it with new parts.
BIG MISTAKE

It caused me all sorts of problems and Finally Failed within one year.
These Drivelines are really not meant for repair.

I finally sent it to Driveline service of Portland Oregon.
They Have great service and a warranty.
When dealing with a mercedes driveline go to the pros.

Do It Right Or Do It Twice!
This is not a Diyer project unless you have a Grand to Blow.

__________________

1984 W123 300CDT

Speaking as a drive shaft newbe, it looks to me like you have EXTREME detentnes if the stub shaft hangs straight out as in your pics. mine was just a couple notches above barely detectable so I put it back together. I did fight my way through 3 inches of snow and freezing temps to attempt too check for detente in a parts D/S, which I couldn't find.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I agree with what you say. when I did the 4-spd swap on the 85 300D, I used a DL from PNP that had way less miles on it than the one that was in the 85. so using the front 1/2 of a 240 DL and having it cut, welded and balanced to my new PNP rear section, thought I was good to go.

About a yr later, chassing down vibration issues from this swap, noticed the U-joint was loose. so pull it back out and back to the shop and have it all done right. as I mentioned in Post#16 Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

Some times trying to cut corners, ends up costing the same or more.

Just about every DL I have removed at PNP has had the detent in the U-Joint.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I bought a cheapo probably made in the worst place for children to work on the planet 46mm spanner for under 20 euros including postage if I remember correctly. Do you need me to look up an unethical link for you?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I do not understand the cutting corners comment. The U-joint Shop would have to do the same thing I did. However, it is true that they are better equiped for the Job.

The only corner cutting I am doing is attempting not to have the Shaft Balanced. If it vibrates I will attempt to balance it with Hose Claps as was done in the old days.

If that does not work I will have to send it to be balanced.

If I had just pulled the Drive Shaft out and sent it to a Shop I would not have had a chance to lean anything from the experience.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I drove to the cheapie tool place and bought a 1-13/16" combination today. It was $15+ sales tax. Made in China.
(EBay has them but will try to get my Car on the Road this weekend; did not want to wait for a wrench to be shipped.)

I hope my Car is jacked up high enough because I do not want to cut the 21 inch long wrench shorter.

I actually went to that Tool Store hoping the would have a Big Crows Foot. They did but not that size.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Before You install your DS hold it upright and give the end of the new joint a whack with a brass or heavy plastic mallet. back in the day we always did this on our demo derby custom shafts. It is supposed to help center the joint. it seemed to always work.