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  #1  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:00 PM
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Hello,

Thanks to Hogweed, I am the proud owner of two w123 coupe rear window regulators that go down halfway. That's better than mine which won't go down an inch. Plus, pulling them out of a parts car gave a good indication of how to do it in a car with a lot less in it.

But now the fun begins. How to repair. What needs repair? Seems to me that it isnt the regulator itself, but rather the metal plate that connects the regulator along the vertical shaft that the window rides along. The one that the window bolts to. Is that right? Some pictures are attached to this post.



























Attached Thumbnails
300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9793.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9794.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9795.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9796.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9797.jpg  

300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9798.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9799.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9800.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9801.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9802.jpg  

300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9803.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9804.jpg   300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9805.jpg  
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Current Diesels:
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1991 350SD (113k)

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1985 300D (233K)

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2011 at 03:01 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #2  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for the excellent pics.

Bend the part in pic #5 back into shape.

See Pic; put a piece of Angle Iron shown in Red on the Pic.
If you want you can also us another thinner piece of Angle Iron shown in Brow to reinforce the part.

You can use JB Weld Epoxy or Epoxy Putty if the surface is not eve along with maybe one Rivet per bend on the Red Angle Iron.

Or some light Tack Welds if you have a Welder.

The Brown reinforced area may be better of just being epoxied un less you want to use the one of the same rivets that goes through the Red Angle Iron.

After that go easy on the Window when going up or down.
Attached Thumbnails
300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-windown-regulator-cd-drawing.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 02-22-2011 at 11:02 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:49 PM
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So is the part that needs to be fixed/straightened/reinforced the gold metal piece that slides on the shaft, as Ive tried to show? it seems that from other threads on this topic, it is the angle/straightness of the gold piece with the small rod sticking up (with the clip on it in the bottom pic) that needs to be fixed.

Anyone have any ideas how the late versions of this fix the issue? As I understand it, the late part number is reinforced somehow. These just have some features to the metal to add stiffness to them. Not enough I guess...

Id like to get a grasp of how these things work, and what hits where. Ill need to try to recapture how thy are mounted and how the gold piece slides/moves on the geared regulator.

Its a start at least. Now I need some warm weather to take the others out of my car!

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2011 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:51 PM
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Also, how do I know what parts really constitute the regulator versus the motor/gearbox?

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2011 at 03:03 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Also, how do I know what parts really constitute the regulator versus the motor/gearbox?
I added info to my previous thread.

I believe everthing minus the Motor is the Window Regulator.

It is the Piece with the Pin that I am speaking of straighten and reinforcing.


The other alternative would be to make an entire new gold colored Plate out of thicker metal
Attached Thumbnails
300CD Rear Window Regulator Pictures-ik3_9797.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2011 at 03:02 PM. Reason: attached picture
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:29 AM
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Thanks! Saw the mods to your post above.

Welding the angle iron would be best, right?

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2011 at 03:03 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:59 AM
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JHZR2,

Just wanted to thank you for your post and photos as I am about to enter the mysterious rear window coupe regulator zone myself! Us coupe owners must band together against the evil forces of the "for sedans and wagons only" crowd.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:36 AM
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As this is something I'll be dealing with soon, I'm watching this thread close..

My drivers goes half way, my pass goes all the way, but the glass itself feels (loose). Waiting on the new regulator for my drivers door right now and want to finish it before moving to the next step.

On another note, you know those gaps you get in the door seal? seem to be right where the door and the back window meet and also where the door glass and the front triangle glass meet.... well, an easy fix is to cut some black foam insulation used for pipes a little bigger than the gap and stick it in place... works like a charm, not even that noticeable. I'll shape a picture of how I did mine.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I
The window going halfway down has to do with the relationship of the short metal arm (that attaches here with a circlip) and the rest of the regulator when assembled in the car. Put it in, attach glass and operate the window- you'll see what I mean. The window regulator bottoms out on travel but the bar position will not allow the window all the way down.

The other things to play with/replace if they are worn are the grey plastic wedges with screws thru them- they need lube and are what makes the window travel smoothly and in correct relationship to the metal pivot bars.

The bend pictured above is effing critical to proper operation. If you are going to reinforce it, I'd suggest having both windows back in the car, assembled and operating correctly and then remove them for welding- it would be a MPITA to weld em and then find out the angle is off.
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:51 PM
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I wish you luck, ive bent these back and reinforced tham as well to no avail. The design is $&#@. I plan to adapt a modern regulator to the coupe rear window next year for mine. Please let us know if you get this to work long term. I can get mine to work a couple times but after a week it just folds the parts up into a bent mess again. I believe the answer lies somewhere in the lubrication of the front rail as that is where the dustruction originates, the bent tab is simply an effect of the sticking front roller.

The reason they go half way down after they are bent is because the small arm over centers and goes past its lower mount point. In the correct function the small arm always stays above the regulator slide, when the tab bends it allows it to go past and then pull down instead of pushing it down which results in a huge loss of travel
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Anyone have any ideas how the late versions of this fix the issue? As I understand it, the late part number is reinforced somehow. These just have some features to the metal to add stiffness to them. Not enough I guess...

heres the factory reinforced one, its bent also as you can see

coupe rear window lubrication type?
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2011, 01:59 PM
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well folks--i got a pair of manual rear regulators from a euro--they are as reliable as an anvl
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2011, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
well folks--i got a pair of manual rear regulators from a euro--they are as reliable as an anvl

I keep watching for a set, Im planning to cut a coupe rear quarter when I find one local and set up a test fixture. I think the Dodge mini van x-cable drive will fit quite nicely in the coupe quarter window space
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2011, 04:33 PM
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I can see why the factory reinforced one failed... The piece that makes the triangle is just going to bend in/down. IMO there needs to be a vertical metal piece, perpendicular, so the tab can't bend inward...
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2011, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I can see why the factory reinforced one failed... The piece that makes the triangle is just going to bend in/down. IMO there needs to be a vertical metal piece, perpendicular, so the tab can't bend inward...

it makes no difference. the real problem is that the actuator is on one side and the front track is 16 inches away. if the front sticks, the actuator cant supply a downward component, only a torque. think of trying to lift a weight at the end of a broomstick. the induced torque then jams the mechanism. the short arm then travels down because the motor is very powerful. as it moves down its angle with the triangle bracket becomes small and the force the long arm produces is multiplied by the short leg of the triangle because it is now a very efficient lever. I would guess this bracket even if reinforced, will see 2-300 lbs force becuase of this multiplication angle. no matter how strong the bracket is, it will bend or the short or long arm will bend. solve the front track sticking problem and you will fix it, then the original unreinforced bracket will be more than enough. Ive run my windows up and down with the covers off literally 100's of times and it works perfect if I help the front track. Im going to try sunroof glide wax next before I go to the Dodge tracks

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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