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  #16  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: DFW area (north side)
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All good advice. I can tell you that when new (1983) this AC was the best I've ever experienced and that is part of why I kept the car (hot and humid Texas summers).

I now have (and I suspect you also) vacuum issues that are not permitting the AC doors to go the their proper positions. I'll be removing the dash soon and replacing/repairing all vacuum pods.

If that doesn't get me back to like new AC performance, I'll be selling the car. Anyone interested in a 1 owner, 215k mile, 300D turbo?

Above all, stick with R12 as the refrigerant.

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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2011, 03:14 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: DFW area (north side)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Setting max cold and hitting max fan may replicate what you experienced.

I've just uploaded some scans on how the airflow works. You could have a series of coincidences that caused your center flap to work/cycle: high speed = increased vacuum + stronger airflow = enough to overcome slight leak

Scans of airflow for W123 climate control
I've been looking all over for this information. Thanks! It should be a WIKI (I think that's the right term) especially if you added trouble shooting guides for the diagrams.
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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:48 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Originally Posted by Cr from Texas View Post
I've been looking all over for this information. Thanks! It should be a WIKI (I think that's the right term) especially if you added trouble shooting guides for the diagrams.
Troubleshooting the system could be troublesome. You've got electrically controlled vacuum switches that take inputs from different sensors.

My recommendation for the primary culprit pod is the defrost pod. If that one is leaking it'll affect the center pod by dumping the vacuum. It also has two diaphragms.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:50 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr from Texas View Post
All good advice. I can tell you that when new (1983) this AC was the best I've ever experienced and that is part of why I kept the car (hot and humid Texas summers).

I now have (and I suspect you also) vacuum issues that are not permitting the AC doors to go the their proper positions. I'll be removing the dash soon and replacing/repairing all vacuum pods.

If that doesn't get me back to like new AC performance, I'll be selling the car. Anyone interested in a 1 owner, 215k mile, 300D turbo?

Above all, stick with R12 as the refrigerant.
You don't need to pull the dash to get to most of them. I'd recommend starting small and checking the foam tube. Pull the glove box and look left. The foam tube connects to the blower motor. No/rotten tube = no airflow across the sensor. I replaced mine with foam pipe insulating material.

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