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  #16  
Old 07-01-2011, 02:37 PM
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Nice job Jeremy! We should get together in SR or Napa one day (or the Windsor PNP) Just picked up a '75 w115 300d (nice car for 300.00!) and also have an '84 euro spec wagon and of course my trusty high mileage still beautiful 300sd.
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  #17  
Old 07-02-2011, 04:21 PM
Bob Albrecht's Avatar
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I have a pop tester and have done this job. The injector tips wear out with B100 and I can only imagine what SVO does.

With homebrew B100 or SVO I would clean them every 12K miles. I put in new Monark injector nozzles and saw a huge improvement.
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2011, 04:47 PM
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WVO/SVO I can understand... But B100 made reasonably well should have superior lubricity.

In general, IMO its better to run blends anyway...
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2011, 04:59 PM
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Nozzle erosion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Albrecht View Post
I have a pop tester and have done this job. The injector tips wear out with B100 and I can only imagine what SVO does.
That is interesting -- commercial or homemade biodiesel? My '87 300D Turbo (W124, OM603) ran on commercial B100 for about 6,000 miles and since then (another 20,000 miles) commercial B20. I noticed no tip erosion when I removed the #14 head.

The nozzles in the #20 head I bought from Sixto were dirty due to the WVO he was experimentally mixing into pump diesel but there was no erosion that I could see, even under a microscope.

I would think that the water in under-dried biodiesel would be the big killer.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2011, 12:47 PM
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To the person marking halves and re-aligning them upon reassembly: old alignment doesn't matter nearly as much as torquing to the right spec. Pop pressure is not so much preserved by the closeness of original shell alignment, but by the spring + shim length w.r.t. inside chamber length.

As people mentioned, when you lap halves you shorten the (internal) spring chamber length, which has the effect of raising pop pressure.

And when you lap halves, any alignment marks made on the two halves are immediately rendered even more meaningless.

Torque to spec, check pop pressure, and adjust shims accordingly, repeat until spec pop is reached. Or, just slap 'em back together and hope they're better than before and if they are, great!
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2011, 12:57 PM
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I think it bears repeating that a BRASS brush is used to clean the nozzle area so as not to scratch the metal.

Clarification required: Jeremy did you remove the nozzle pin from the nozzle, then scrub the end of the nozzle, or did you leave the pin in and scrub the lot? And did you do anything special (brass wire?) about cleaning the nozzle pin hole through the nozzle?

thx
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
I think it bears repeating that a BRASS brush is used to clean the nozzle area so as not to scratch the metal.

Clarification required: Jeremy did you remove the nozzle pin from the nozzle, then scrub the end of the nozzle, or did you leave the pin in and scrub the lot? And did you do anything special (brass wire?) about cleaning the nozzle pin hole through the nozzle?

thx
Unless I completely misunderstood how the nozzles were made, I didn't find any holes in the injector nozzles of either set of OM603 injectors. (From the #14 head and from the #20 head, the injectors are different.) Even under a microscope the nozzle tips appeared to be solid metal. I did read about holes in the nozzles of OM61x injectors.

I think we need some pictures so we don't talk at cross-purposes. In the 6th picture of my OP, I show all the individual parts. I removed the "nozzle needle" from the "nozzle" and cleaned both, as well as all of the other parts, separately. That included carefully scraping the front surface of the nozzle with a razor blade (after removing the needle), to get the carbon that shows in pictures 3 and 4 off of the nozzle. As you say, it's important to use a brass (soft metal) brush so as not to damage the tips.

When I looked at the nozzle needle under a low-power (20X - 50X) binocular zoom microscope, I could see no holes in the needle. I admit to being somewhat confused because other threads talk about holes in the tip. I concluded that the other threads were talking about OM61x-family engines. Did I miss something?

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2011, 01:33 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
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You're right, let's use same terminology, I'll follow the picture in this thread.

What I meant was, when you take the nozzle needle out of the nozzle, do you plunge anything down inside of the empty nozzle with any cleaning action?

The hole I speak of is very visible to naked eye, it's where the tip of the nozzle needle goes through the nozzle. Do you attack that hole (from the outside) with any brushing action (needle removed) or running a wire through the hole?

That's what I meant to ask.

I get that you removed surface carbon on the face of the nozzle/injector, but it's what goes on in that very tiny region of the hole that matters most.
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  #24  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:05 PM
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Clarification

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
You're right, let's use same terminology, I'll follow the picture in this thread.

What I meant was, when you take the nozzle needle out of the nozzle, do you plunge anything down inside of the empty nozzle with any cleaning action?

The hole I speak of is very visible to naked eye, it's where the tip of the nozzle needle goes through the nozzle. Do you attack that hole (from the outside) with any brushing action (needle removed) or running a wire through the hole?

That's what I meant to ask.

I get that you removed surface carbon on the face of the nozzle/injector, but it's what goes on in that very tiny region of the hole that matters most.
OK, I understand now. I cleaned all of the parts for several hours in acetone using an ultrasonic bath (parts in cup with acetone, cup standing in water in the ultrasonic bath). I scraped the carbon off of the face of the nozzle. I didn't do anything special to the hole in the nozzle where the needle seats, didn't even think about it. Should I have? (My first experience with injectors, BTW.) Whatever you stick into that hole has to be carefully chosen so that it removes crud/carbon/whatever with zero risk of enlarging the hole.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Whatever you stick into that hole has to be carefully chosen so that it removes crud/carbon/whatever with zero risk of enlarging the hole.
There are tools specifically designed to do that job.
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  #26  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
There are tools specifically designed to do that job.
Would you mind sharing it with the forum?
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  #27  
Old 07-11-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
Would you mind sharing it with the forum?
That is a lot like asking your dentist if you could borrow his drill so you could fill your own cavity. There is a lot more involved than just having the right tool.
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  #28  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:10 PM
RML RML is offline
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Great write-up Jeremy. I am definitely going to do this on my 84 300D. My impression in the past has been that there are special skills and tools involved. There certaily are some skills here, but I can handle it.

Are those your hands holding the injector or is that a professional model? There is no dirt. Not even under the fingernails.

Richard
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  #29  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That is a lot like asking your dentist if you could borrow his drill so you could fill your own cavity. There is a lot more involved than just having the right tool.
Oh sorry, I mis-read your post. What you meant was ??

"There are special skill and tools specifically designed to do that job"
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

2 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #30  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:13 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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My hands

Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
Great write-up Jeremy. I am definitely going to do this on my 84 300D. My impression in the past has been that there are special skills and tools involved. There certaily are some skills here, but I can handle it.

Are those your hands holding the injector or is that a professional model? There is no dirt. Not even under the fingernails.

Richard
I wear rubber gloves for the dirty work. Must have removed them for the photos.

Your '84 300D will have different injectors but the pieces should all be similar and likewise the techniques.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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