Mean while back at the ranch... The continuing travails of Brunehilda the 1983 European 300D:

After having in the last two months replaced the ignition switch (because the key wouldnt turn any more), the windshield (because of a bad/leaking gasket), the harmonic balancer ($95.00 for a good used US version, $368.00 for a new European one), pulled out the dash cluster and cleaned all the connections because of the infamous "dancing" temperature gauge/gas gauge (and we wont even talk about the !@#$%^&* vacuum locks...)

The significant other was driving the other day and smelled a "funny burning kind of smell and then the air conditioner stopped working".

When I looked under the hood I saw the belt was still on the compressor and turning but the clutch was NOT engaging. When I went to touch the clutch plate it was burning hot to the touch. I have since taken the belt off of the compressor (and you ought to hear/feel the bearing noise when you spin the compressor by hand) and Brunehilda/She Who Must be Obeyed continues to run strong (probably significantly stronger without the pull strain of the compressor.

I have been doing research on the site regarding compressors and saw a great write up about alternative compressors for the Euro w123 originally posted by engatwork BUT I am having trouble following the Sanden/Daiavia/R4/York alternate compressor/brackets discussion.

As you guys have pretty much spoon fed me thru some pretty significant repairs in the past, here are my questions:

1. Noting the pictures attached, what kind of compressor is currently in the car? the only identification/numbers I see are on a plate on the compressor and are: 113 130 3470; and 8390

2. What are my repair options? Do I have to get a exact replacement compressor (once again quadrupling the actual value of the car in parts costs) or is there a way to obtain adapters/brackets from ebay people or others that will allow me to use an R4 compressor (thereby only doubling the costs) ?

Hopefully the pictures show it but my current compressor has an idler pulley that is almost impossible to tighten more than 1/64th of a turn at a time but as far as I can tell is the only way to apply/maintain tension to the belt.

Failing this can any one put me on to a really good exorcist?

Thanks for any help or thoughts you might have

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